Maremma, my home

Five years ago, I would have told you to run from the Maremma as fast as you possibly could lest you get sucked into the monotony of country life.

In my defence, I was young, reasonably foolish and utterly spoilt. To think that I could have looked at this magnificent corner of Southern Tuscany and moaned about the lack of after-dinner entertainment! Not my finest moment, for sure. But I had come to the Maremma to teach English and take a year off before starting university. I never expected to find my home.

It doesn’t matter where you are in the world, home always begins with a sense of belonging. For me, feeling like an outsider in a small Italian town called Manciano was enough to consider abandoning my post and returning to my family in Australia.

(Manciano)

And then I met a boy. There’s always a boy isn’t there? Sure he was cute, but more importantly, he showed me just how amazing, unforgettable and enchanting the Maremma could be.

If you’ve never heard of my home then you’re missing out. In my mind, the Maremma is small, picturesque and cosy. In reality, it actually makes up a quarter of Tuscany. But it does have a small town atmosphere, a sense that everyone knows your name (and your business) and an infectiously warm welcome, gratuitously extended to anyone who visits.

Its landscape is a mixture of pure natural beauty and a historical legacy that begins with the Etruscans and embraces Romans warriors, Medieval masters and Renaissance kings. From one end to the other, the countryside looks like its from the pages of a picture book and there are few other places in the world where you can go from paradisical beach to snow-flecked mountain top in a matter of hours.

In the midst of it all, the Maremmani maintain the very best of their agrarian roots, an unconscious respect for the environment and an appreciation of simple homecooked meals, where seasonality is king and everything is better with a good glass of local wine and a noisy dose of family.

I admit, I’ve become eccentrically besotted with the Tuscan Maremma. But it didn’t happen immediately. Instead, my adopted home snuck up on me. Surprised me completely. Beat some sense into my bratty brain and left me with an unexplainable, but unbreakable, affection for a landscape I stumbled upon completely by accident.

(Saturnia Hot Springs)

I’m now married to that cute Tuscan boy, who is really a born, bred and slightly over-patriotic Maremmano with a secret love of Thai cooking. He’d never admit it, but I think he’d swap a bowl of tortelli maremmani for a pad thai any day.

And me? There are days when I crave the Australian summer sun and Christmas at the beach, but I couldn’t possibly imagine myself living anywhere else. When it all boils down, home is so much more than where your heart is, where you hang your hat, or where all your stuff is, it’s also where you see yourself whenever you close your eyes.

I close my eyes and I see the countryside that’s immediately outside my bedroom window. Oak-covered plains the colour of acid, clusters of hills masquerading as mountains and the indeterminable Argentario Sea, which everyone insists they can see clearly, but which I am yet to get a glimpse of.

(The view from Elisa’s window)

And with this sight, comes a million mixed emotions. Affection for the locals of my small Italian town who call themselves Mancianese first, Maremmani second and Tuscans last, and only if they’re forced. Astonishment that I didn’t appreciate the small pleasures of a quiet day spent enjoying country life sooner. Amazement at just how much the Maremma has to offer its visitors. And pride for the effort made to preserve local tradition and the cultura contadini (farming culture) no matter what.

(Pitigliano)

The Maremma is without a doubt my home now and while it isn’t always la dolce vita, it’s pretty darn spectacular. Especially since I’ve finally accepted that I will always be asked whether I eat kangaroo, have ever seen a crocodile or watched ‘Le Sorelle McLeod‘ (‘McLeod’s Daughters’) when it was on television. I’m no longer an outsider, but curiosity gets the best of everyone!

I haven’t been blogging very regularly this month, because, as most of you who read my blog on a regular basis know, we have just had a baby: Liam! He has certainly turned our lives upside down, but we are finally finding new rhythms and adjusting to our new existence as parents.

2011 has been a great year for us. We have welcomed Liam into our lives, I got tenure, we bought a new car, we had a fabulous season with our vacation rentals in Tuscany and, thanks to that, we made several new friends!

There were some sad moments. We lost some dear ones, who are and will be certainly missed. But life is like that: it’s made of great moment and very sad ones. I am simply very thankful that I have amazing people around me to make the “ride” so pleasant.

Let’s hope 2012 is a serene year too, both for us and for all of you who are reading this post.We have much to look forward too!

This year, we will spend New Year’s Eve at home, trying to keep our eyes open until midnight! As usual, there were many interesting events that we could have attended in Pisa, or Siena.

New Year’s Eve in Pisa will see music in the squares of the city: a great street party and fireworks. In Siena, there will be the usual concert in Piazza del Campo. We won’t be drinking spumante, but we might be celebrate with a bottle of milk in our hands!

To you all, a very very happy new year! We hope it brings our way many new interesting people and, hopefully, some old friends too!

What is Tuscany like in October?

October is the month when the fall really starts to set in. The first half of the month is usually still quite warm with temperatures that range between 20 and 25°C (68-77°F) during the central hours of the day, then drop in the evenings and are much lower in the mornings (between 10 and 15°C/50-59°F). This year, the beginning of October promises to be warmer than average, just like September was. By mid October, temperatures will range between 10°C (50°F) and 20°C (68°F).

Some rain should be expected. The beginning of the month usually sees occasional bad weather which never lasts too long, while at the end of the month, the bad weather can be more persistent. Windy days are quite common in October.

Normally, it will still be nice enough to eat outdoors at lunch time, although by the end of the month, you might be more comfortable indoors. In the evenings, especially if windy, it is preferable to sit inside. By the last week of October, you might enjoy the first fire of the season and find sitting in front of the fireplace quite pleasant. In Tuscany, it is usually too cold (well… at least for Italians!) to go to the beach or use a swimming pool. As a matter of fact, most swimming pools will be closed at the end of September.

(Photo by Francesco Sgroi)

If you visit Tuscany in October remember to pack both short-sleeve and long-sleeve shirts, and a light jacket. I love wool cardigans which you can either use under your jacket in case of an usually cold October or as a jacket. In any case, you will need to dress in layers. Most people stop wearing open shoes even if it’s still warm: if you want to blend in, it’s time to move to closed footwear! (See my post about the fact that Italians dress for the season rather than for the weather).

Colors start to change in the countryside. Don’t expect the spectacular north American foliage: we almost totally lack the shades of red. This doesn’t mean that you won’t get any fall colors. During the second half of the month, vines start to turn yellow and in fact, the only place where you might see shades of red is in some vineyards. Leaves on trees also start to turn yellow and brown. The foliage in Lucca is beautiful at the end of October.

If October is rainy, green grass will make its appearance after the summer dryness and will cover the fields with a thin coat of green. Olives start to turn purple on the olive trees and pomegranates assume their beautiful magenta color. Persimmons turn yellow and wild bushes are covered in red berries.

If you have a chance to take a walk in the woods, you will notice many hot pink wild cyclamens: so pretty!

What is in season in October?

October is a relatively “poor” month in terms of seasonal products. Pears and apples are in season but Tuscany is not a major producer. Grapes are still available and you might be able to get the last egg plants of the seasn. By the end of the month the first persimmons, pomegranates and chestnuts might be ready, although they are more likely to be ready in November.

If you like cabbage, October is your month! Broccoli, cowliflower, cabbage and sprouts are in season and so are fennel, leeks and pumpkins.

The most appreciated of the ingredients on the October table are porcini mushrooms, especially if sunny and rainy days alternate and the temperatures are mild. This year seems to be promising.

Game meat is available, because the hunting season is open. If you go for a walk in the woods, make sure to wear something in bright colours.

Sagre or Village Festivals

October is a popular month for village festivals, so if you want to experience joining in the celebrations this is a good month. They are usually festivals dedicated to seasonal products.

Some festivals in our area are:

• Sagra del Fungo Porcino (dedicated to porcini mushrooms) in Casale di Pari, first weekend of October.
• Sagra del Fungo Amiatino (dedicated to mushrooms of the Mount Amiata) in Bagnolo di Santa Fiori, beginning of October

Other popular festivals and fairs which might be worth being incorporated into your travel plans are:

• Festa della Vendemmia (dedicated to the grape harvest) in Asciano, beginning of October
• Sagra del Galletto (dedicated to rooster meat) in Montalcino, first weekend in October
• Sagra del Tordo (dedicated to thursh meat) in Montalcino, last weekend in October
• Sagra della Castagna (dedicated to chestnuts) in Cortona, beginning of October
• Dolcemente Pisa (fair dedicated to desserts) in Pisa, beginning of October
• La Festa d’Autunno (dedicated to chestnuts and mushrooms) in Abbadia San Salvatore, mid October
• Sagra della Castagna (dedicated to chestnuts) in Montieri, mid October
• Castagna in festa (dedicated to chestnuts) in Arcidosso and Castel del Piano, mid October
• Sagra del Primo Olio (dedicated to olive oil) in San Giovanni d’Asso, early October
• Zucche in Festa (dedicated to pumpkins) in Castell’Azzara, early October

Steam engine trains

An attraction that few people know of is the old railway system. An association called “Ferrovie Turistiche” has revived the old railway line that, from Siena, cuts through the Val d’Orcia and reaches the villages of Mount Amiata. The line is not used anymore for the most part, except on special occasions when it is reopened to steam engine trains which take people to various events in the area.

The rides are usually organized in the spring and in the fall. In October, you can go from Siena to Asciano for the Grape Harvest Festival (October 2), or from Siena to Arcidosso and Castel del Piano on Mount Amiata for the Chestnut Festival (October 23). If you happen to be in Florence, on October 16, you can reach Marradi for the Chestnut Festival.

The website of the Ferrovie Turistiche is in English too.

What is Tuscany like in September?

September is usually one of the most pleasant months of the year to be in Tuscany. It is still warm, with summer-like weather, but not hot. This year (2011), we have had an exceptionally hot September, but this is highly unusual.

Usually, the first half of the month is hotter than the second half. In early September, most people are still going to the beach regularly. It is warm enough that you can comfortably wear your summer clothes from dawn to dusk, and it is still great weather for dining outdoors and using swimming pools.

(Photo by Been Around)

In hilly areas like ours, you might already need a light, long-sleeve shirt in the mornings and evenings. Air-conditioning is not necessary anymore, because temperatures rarely go above 25°C and the humidity is low because of the cool September breeze.

(Photo by Around Tuscany)

There is usually a real change in the air. The sky becomes clearer, the air crispy. The first late summer showers bring about that great smell of wet hay that announces that fall is just around the corner.

By mid September, temperatures are usually lower, around 22-23°C. A light jacket might be necessary in the mornings and evenings. Sometimes the wind is quite cool. It is still pleasant enough to have dinner “al fresco” (but it is usually too cold for short sleeves at night), go to the beach and use swimming pools, at least during the warmest time of the day (between 11am and 4pm).

The real change in the air happens at this point, both physically and metaphorically. It gets cooler, of course, and the mornings are characterized by beautiful misty views and pink dawns. Showers and storms become more frequent, but they are still occasional.

School starts again and life goes back to its normal rhythms after the summer holidays (see the latest round of posts of the Italy Blogging Roundtable about going “back to school“). The positive side of this is that everything is open and thriving. The negative side is that, in cities, traffic goes back to evil.

The Grape Harvest

September is the time of the year when grapes are harvested. Well, when I was a kid my grandfather insisted that grapes should not be picked before October, but over the years the climate has changed so much that October is just too late now. The large wine estates start picking at the end of August. My family harvests grapes in September.

This is a good time of the year to go visit wineries. Remember to call ahead if you don’t join a wine tour, because it is a very busy time of the year and some wineries might not accept unexpected visitors. (Here is a link to a nice Wine Tour in Maremma. We went in August, but you can get an idea of places to go to in the area. And for more information on wine trails in our area, check this page about the wines of Tuscany).

If you decide to stick to cities, you won’t “feel” the grape harvest much. But if you go to any village in the countryside of Tuscany, you can really feel it in the air… or rather… smell it! Everybody has a little patch of land with a few vines, and you will see plenty of people unloading crates of grapes in front of their cellars in the village, washing the machine you use to press grapes, etc. The smell of must is intoxicating!

(Photo by mahlisuh)

Many people ask whether it is possible to participate in the grape harvest. Unfortunately, by law, only contracted and insured workers can work in the fields, so it likely won’t be possible to actively participate in the grape harvest. However, if you participate in a wine tour, wineries might let you pick a few grapes just to let you experience how it’s done. It depends on the wine estate and how flexible they are.

What is in season in September?

Nowadays you find all kind of fruit and vegetables all year round. In Italy however, we still tend to stick to what is in season, and believe me seasonal fruit and vegetables taste so much better!

(Photo by jo mclure)

So, if you happen to be in Tuscany in September, you can still find the last peaches and plums of the season, although they are not very good, but most importantly you can eat grapes and figs, which are in full swing in September. The first pears and apples are available, but they are not commonly grown in Tuscany, especially apples. The vegetable garden still offers decent tomatoes, carrots, green beans, egg plants, new potatoes, and bell peppers. The first fennels, leeks, broccoli, pumpkins, Brussel sprouts, cabbages of different types and cauliflowers usually make their appearance in mid to late September. Last but not least, mushrooms could be available if the weather is right and truffles are in season!

You might be able to taste fresh game meat: September is the month when the hunting season starts. Only certain birds can be hunted, and the most appreciated of all, the pheasant, can be hunted only after the third Sunday of September. If you go for a walk in the woods, make sure to wear something in bright colours.

Sagre or Village Festivals

September is a popular month for village festivals, so if you want to experience joining in the celebrations this is a good month. They are usually festivals dedicated to seasonal products.

Some festivals and fairs in our area are:

• Sagra della Granocchia (dedicated to frogs) in Paganico – first weekend of September
• Sagra della Salsiccia (dedicated to sausage) in Pari – last weekend of September

Other popular festivals and fairs which might be worth being incorporated in your travel plans are:

• Festa dell’Uva (dedicated to the grape harvest) in Scansano, home to the Morellino DOC Wine – mid to late September
• Festa dell’Uva (dedicated to the grape harvest) in Cinigiano, home to the Montecucco DOC Wine – last weekend of September
• Maremma Food Shire – Braccagni,organized for the first time this year, this promises to be an interesting yearly event about the products of the Maremma.
• Sagra del Vinsanto e del Ciambello (dedicated to vinsanto and a type of traditional biscuits) in Montepulciano – usually the second last weekend of September
• Festa della Bistecca e del Fungo Porcino (dedicated to T-bone steaks and porcini mushrooms) in Certaldo, usually every weekend in September
• Mostra mercato del tartufo e del fungo (dedicated to truffles and mushrooms) in Palaia – last weekend of September
• Sagra del tartufo bianco e del fungo porcino (dedicated to white truffle and porcini mushrooms) in San Miniato, near Pisa – one of the most popular – late September.

What tourist season is September?

The first week of September is usually still considered high-season. But most hotels, vacation rentals etc. will consider Septemer mid-season. This means that travelling in September you can get great weather, lower prices, smaller crowds and a more authentic experience of life in Italy.

Moreover, you might be able to get some nice last minute deals because the tourist demand decreases.

Planning to get married in Tuscany?

September is a popular month for weddings. It is still warm enough to have an outdoor wedding ceremony and reception. If you plan on getting married in Tuscany in September, you need to start planning at least 9 months in advance, possibly a full year, because wedding venues book up early. If you need help planning your September wedding in Tuscany, we recommend you get in touch with Boutique Events.

You can read it here: Tuscany beyond the major cities. I chose to focus on abbeys and churches that are well worth a visit and which are located in the countryside.

The other guest posts included in the FlipKey Italy Week up to now are:

• The Valnerina: the hidden gem of Umbria by Rebecca owner of Brigolante Guest Apartments
• Pici all’aglione and Valdorcia by the amazingly talented food blogger Giulia of Jul’s Kitchen
• Uncovering Umbria by Letizia owner of the holiday farm La Madonna del Piatto

More to come in the next couple of days… but I have to say that Tuscany and Umbria rock as usual! LOL

The weather this summer has been a bit crazy up to now. We had a cool June, a very hot early July and a cool and rainy second half of the month. It has been raining quite a lot, and the temperature is lower than it usually is at this time of the year, but the countryside after a summer rainfall is spectacular!

Here are some more shots we have taken over the past few days!

It’s no big deal though, because I get to spend more time in my home village, and that is always a nice change from the busier rhythms of the city. It’s almost like being on holiday.

This year we have decided it has to be exactly like being on holiday. Since we cannot leave, we have decided to have a “staycation“, a vacation at home. If so many people travel from all over the world to come spend a week here, we thought, why can’t we do the same? And so we have decided to make a virtue of necessity!

I guess there are many ways to take a staycation in Tuscany: we could go explore the many beautiful places we haven’t seen yet, but we have decided to spend some time at my parents’ house in the countryside and just relax instead. We are always in the car driving back and forth between Pisa and Civitella: I want a few days where I can stay put. Well… almost.

This is actually not very different from what we usually do when we travel abroad anyway: we like the quiet of the countryside and we always choose destinations that allow us to spend some time in scenic spots. We are so lucky to own a tiny piece of the wonderful countryside of Tuscany, so, that’s this year’s hideaway for us!

We have packed a lot of books, as we plan on reading as much as we can. Hopefully the weather will be good this week and we will be able to enjoy the shade under the oak trees. I’ve also gathered a number of recipes that I have wanted to try for a while: the vegetable garden, the chicken coop and the orchard will provide us with most of what we need for the week!

I have set out to use my best tableware and kitchenware too, the type of things you buy because you love them, and then you rarely use them because they seem too nice… well, nothing is too nice for us this week! My husband always makes fun of me, because I buy the nicest things for our vacation house, Casina di Rosa, and keep the cheapest things for ourselves! Not this time!

We plan on spending some time walking the trails with our dog, having a nice garden party with some friends, gardening, and generally enjoying the beautiful, quiet countryside.

So yesterday we said… Let’s the staycation begin! We spent our first day in the countryside and loved it. The weather was overcast: big dark clouds in the morning and early afternoon, which made for the perfect weather to unpack, have a nice lunch and curl up on the sofa for an afternoon nap while a brief summer storm raged outside. The cool wind that accompanies the summer rain is amazing. And the smell of the countryside after a sudden shower is also unmistakeable!

Not sure if my husband was as enthusiastic about the rain as I was, because so it happened that our dog needed to go out right in the middle of a heavy shower (and of the Grand Prix…) and both of them came back soaking wet and muddy!

By 5pm though, the sun was back. The light was great, the temperature was cool, and the table in the garden was finally dry enough that we could have a warm tea under the trees. 

I think when you are on holiday, the small details make all the difference. This is why we try to fit our vacation homes with nice things to make them as cozy as we can. Fresh flowers, nice china, different types of tea… a perfect tea break!

We also got to spend some time reading in the late afternoon summer breeze.

After some gardening, our guests arrived so my husband went to check them in, while I started preparing dinner: pork filet with apples and roast potatoes! Delicious!

A movie and it was bed time!

This morning we had to have an early start, because my husband had to go see a client in Florence… the first interruption of our staycation (not for me though!). Opening the windows at 7am and being able to walk out the dog in my pyjamas might seem a simple pleasure for those of you who are used to having a private, fenced garden… but for us living in Italy, where having a garden is a luxury and a private one is a dream, this felt absolutely great! The sun was warm, the air was crisp. Just perfect for a quick walk with the dog before a cappuccino and a croissant!

Let the staycation continue!!!

Over the years, though, we have also had to deal with many “little nuisances” which, we suspect, are often the result of basic cultural differences. I must be getting older and grumpier, because some of these things, which I imagine most of our fellow hosts also have to deal with on an almost daily basis, really start to bother me. So here are a few things that might be some good food for thought when you contact a vacation rental, a hotel, or any service in general.

1. Remember you are writing to a person, and not to a computer, especially if you are contacting a small agriturismo, B&B or vacation rental like ours. We do our best to provide a personal service, and it is always good to be treated like the human beings we are, sitting behind the screen.
2. Remember to sign you email message or to provide your name if you contact someone via a portal: if you are not willing to share your name, why should we trust you with our home?
3. If you are not interested, just drop a line to say that you are not interested. It is a pure act of kindness towards the people who have taken the time to send you a clear and detailed reply as if you were the only person they had to deal with that day. We all in the tourism business know that the choice out there is vast, and that you have probably contacted many other places. No big deal. Just tell us “not this time, thanks”, and we will know we can consider the period you were interested in as available and offer it to the next person that contacts us without having to have them wait so that we can make sure we are not overbooking.
4. If you say you want to book and ask for the details for the reservation deposit and you then change your mind, please let us know as soon as possible. This is the thing that drives me crazy the most. It has happened several times already this year. People book, then ask for the details to confirm the reservation, and then they disappear. And you have to contact them several time before they have the decency to say “sorry, we changed our mind”. This is unacceptable and plain rude. It is nothing but basic good manners to inform the owner of the place that you have changed your mind, or at least to reply the first time. I really cannot find any excuse for this behaviour, and I have to say, when some of these people have contacted us later to reinstate the reservation, we have said “no, sorry. We don’t want you anymore”.
5. Remember that it is not a God given right to be accepted in a vacation rental, hotel, b&b or agriturismo because you can pay for the service. We are opening the doors of our homes to you: you are a guest. A paying guest, and we do our best to make sure your money is well spent, but an inn-keeper always has the right to refuse a reservation if he or she believes the guest is not a good match for his or her place.
6. Remember that laws relative to hospitality are different in different countries: don’t insist that the laws of your country be applied to ours. A simple example: short term rentals in France are supposed to have rental contracts, while in Italy they are like hotels and no contract is required (or exists). Contracts are only for long term rentals. We can’t send you the rental contract before you send us the reservation deposit because no such contract exists. If you want to be sure that the business is legitimate, ask to see the VAT number of the business (tax registration number).
7. Make sure you read the terms and conditions for the reservation before you commit. When you have committed, it’s too late if you don’t like them. This is why they are clearly published on websites, so that you know what you are getting into. If you don’t find them clearly published, make sure the inn-keeper sends them in writing, and make sure you ask what the cancellation policies are. Transparency is the best key to a happy host-guest relationship.
8. If you agree on a check-in time frame, and the host asks you to give a call in case you are going to be late, make sure you do that, as it saves a lot of “wondering” on both parts.
9. If you happen to break something while you are staying at a property, inform the host when you leave. Don’t just put things together in a way that it doesn’t show. You will be surprised by how willing to overlook small problems most hosts are.
10. Last but not least, always ask your host when you need help or information with anything. Asking is always better than assuming and it makes for a much more pleasant holiday.

These are just small things, but I promise that anyone in the tourism business like us will agree that they make all the difference in the world. And for those of you who are wondering who would ever do otherwise, well… it happens sometimes, but luckily most of those people end up staying at much more impersonal places!

Patricia of Got Saga asked me to contribute an article to her blog, and I did with pleasure. This is a slightly longer version of the article I wrote for her.

10 alternative things to do in Tuscany

Tuscany is one of the most popular destinations in Italy. Most travelers to this region, though, don’t venture outside the major landmarks. For this reason, they sometimes go back home thinking that Tuscany is a mostly touristy destination with lots of tourists everywhere. Quite to the contrary, Tuscany has lots of places that are easy to reach even if you choose to base yourselves in one of the popular spots but which are definitely off-the-beaten-path. These places can offer you a completely different image of this amazing region, certainly one of the most beautiful places in the world, and make for outstanding day trips.

1. Vie cave

Tuscany was home to one of the most ancient Italic civilizations: the Etruscans. They were powerful and thriving long before the Romans made their appearance on the scene and visiting the remains of their ancient world is one of the most impressive experiences both for adult and younger visitors to the region. One of the most incredible hikes in the entire region is that though the network of roads carved by the Etruscans through tall tuff stone walls near the beautiful town of Pitigliano:  the so-called Vie Cave.  Nobody really knows how Etruscans managed to cut these passages through stone, nor what their actual function was. The most credited hypotheses are that they were either water channels or sacred roads connecting burial grounds and other sacred grounds. A magical walk you won’t easily forget.

(Photo by Sbrinz81)

2. Picnic on Monte Amiata

Most people know that Tuscany is made of gentle rolling hills and open countryside. Most of those landscapes, which are typical of the Val d’Orcia and of the Sienese Crete, were created by an ancient volcano, Mount Amiata. Mount Amiata is the highest peak in the region, at 1700 m above sea level. Its slopes are dotted by small villages and towns, which have a distinct atmosphere. A visit to Mount Amiata is a way to discover a completely different facet of Tuscany, with its beech tree forests, the chestnut groves, the small churches hidden among large volcanic rocks. The woods that cover the top of the mountain are one of the most popular picnic destinations among the locals, who venture there to escape the heat of the long summer days. There are equipped areas where it’s possible to barbecue and sit at one of the many picnic tables. Or you can bring your own picnic food and choose a more private hideaway spot in the woods: it’s never too crowded. If you feel like some sightseeing too, the town of Abbadia San Salvatore has a fabulous medieval abbey, and the drive from Castiglion d’Orcia to Montalcino is simply breathtaking, especially if you are travelling by motorbike.

3. Climbing trees with kids

Italy does not have much which is specifically meant for younger travelers. Tree climbing parks are a notable exception and are perfect for a fun family day on the coast. Cielo Verde Adventure Park is a tree climbing park with itineraries ideal for all different ages. It’s located in the pine tree forest that lines the coast of Marina di Grosseto and makes for a perfect morning activity which can be ideally followed by a relaxing afternoon on the beautiful beach of the Maremma.

4. Horseback ride in the Maremma

The Maremma is a loosely populated area, with plenty of itineraries that are ideally discovered on horseback. Hire a guide for the day, and he will take you through what is considered the wild west of Tuscany, along paths that cut the Mediterranean maquis that covers the hills, through rivers that run through the plains, and past old farm houses and ancient ruins.

(Photo by aeminphilly)

5. Minicruise of the Tuscan archipelago

Tuscany is not only famous for its art heritage: its nature is also just as impressive. Not many people know that the coast of Tuscany is among the best in Italy, and even fewer people know that Tuscany is home to a spectacular archipelago, which is a paradise for divers and sea lovers. If you are on a tight schedule, one great way to enjoy a day at sea is to go on one of the 1 day mini-cruises which set off daily from Castiglione della Pescaia and Porto Santo Stefano and take people to the main islands of the archipelago including the Isle of Giglio, the Isle of Giannutri (a limited-access nature park with a fabulous archaeological site), the Isle of Elba, Capraia, Montecristo and Pianosa. The mini-cruise usually include a seafood meal on board and several stops to visit the islands and take a swim where is allowed.  Yet another way to discover one of the many facets of Tuscany.

(Isola del Giglio, photo by gioanola)

6. San Rossore Nature Park in a carriage

Pisa is famous for its Leaning Tower, but it has many other treasures. One of them is the beautiful nature park of San Rossore, which stretches from the city to the coast. One cool and romantic way to discover the park is to visit it on a horse-drawn carriage, just like the many noblemen and artists who used to spend their vacations in Pisa in the 19^th century used to do it.

(San Rossore in Carrozza)

7. Visit Borgo di Isola santa in Garfagnana

Another area of Tuscany which is very different from the better known images of the region is the mountain area north of Lucca called Garfagnana. This area is dotted by remote towns, semi-abandoned villages, and old large farmhouses where life must have been very hard only 50 years ago. Garfagnana is perfect for hiking but also to spend some time away from it all. One place that certainly allows for an away-from-it-all get away is the hamlet of Isola Santa. The hamlet is on the border of a small lake in the heart of the Apuan Alps. It was abandoned long ago, and some of the houses have recently been renovated and transformed in vacation rental apartments. From the hamlet, trails through the surrounding woods lead to other small abandoned villages: a magic hideaway in Tuscany.

(Photo by Rufux)

8. The monasteries of the Casentino near Arezzo

The wooded area called Casentino, near Arezzo, are the cradle of medieval Tuscany. Since the area is not central to the most popular destinations and definitely not the type of landscape you see on postcards and guidebooks, only few people venture there. Italians, though, love it. The Casentino forest is actually a national park, with great hiking and horseback riding itineraries. The park is dotted by ancient towns with castles and old churches. But the most impressive sites are La Verna and the Camaldoli Hermitages. La Verna is famous because St. Francis of Assisi received his stigmata here and it is a popular destination for pilgrims. Camaldoli is one of the most impressive Benedictine monasteries in Italy, dating back to the 13^th century. Hiking through the Foresta Casentinese to the hermitages is an unforgettable experience.

(Photo by Friar’s Balsam)

9. The Roman-Etruscan sites in Populonia and the beautiful Gulf of Baratti

A daytrip to Populonia and Baratti, on the coast of the Maremma, is a very rewarding experience. Populonia is home to a large Roman-Etruscan archaeological site, with well-preserved remains of houses, public and sacred buildings, burial grounds (necropolis) and roads. The archaeological park is quite big, and there are several itineraries that visitors can follow to visit it and for which you will need between 1 h 30 minutes and 2 hours and 30 minutes. From Populonia, where there is also a great fort on a very panoramic spot, you can walk down to the beautiful cove called Golfo di Baratti and enjoy a day on one of the best beaches in Italy.

(Photo by TuscanyArts)

10. Parco dei Mulini in Val d’Orcia

The Val d’Orcia is one of the most popular areas in Tuscany, but even in such a well-known area there are interesting sites that remain off-the-beaten-path. One of the most impressive is the park created to preserve the ancient medieval mills which supplied the region of Siena with flour. The park is near the pretty town of Bagni Vignone, famous for its thermal baths.

(Photo by gi+cri)

Tuscany is much more than the usual popular spots and venturing out off the beaten path does not mean missing out on something, but enjoying true treasures away from the crowds.

The title of my first post in this series is the answer to the question we chose to guide our first roundtable: “why do you write about Italy?” I confess that I had to think about this before I could come up with something that made sense (and I am not sure I did!). I had never thought about the reason why I blog about the things I blog about. Most of the time, something comes up and I need to vent or talk about it!

I guess that’s part of the answer. I am Italian, I live in Tuscany: by blogging about life in Italy, I am blogging about myself and my life here. I am blogging about home.

I spend my life between Pisa, in northern Tuscany, and my home village, Civitella Marittima, in southern Tuscany, so I mostly blog about living in these places. It’s not so simple though. To figure out what I would write today, I re-read some of my posts. I figured out that most of the time, they are not about places or things I see and do: they are often quite personal posts… more personal than I had realized! I share my experiences, my feelings and my opinions on certain aspects of living in Tuscany or in Italy.

Most of the time I post about “trivial” aspects of local life, like a traditional recipe or about something I saw during a walk in the countryside or in the city… but all these “small things” have great meaning to me and come with the sudden awareness that certain little cultural-specific things are such a huge part of myself that by writing about them I am trying to write about what being born and raised in Italy and living here all your life is really like.

Sometimes I write about them because I am proud of this part of the world. Often I write about my corner of Tuscany because it is more beautiful than people think. And here comes the second big reason why I write about the things I write about: Tuscany is not just Florence and Chianti, Pisa is not just the Leaning Tower, living in Tuscany is not about chilling out under an oak tree all day long and going back to your beautiful countryside villa to chill some more with a glass of red wine in your hand (if you want to read more about what I think about this, you can check this post about hidden gems and popular spots).

I write about my everyday life and about off-the-beaten-path places in Tuscany because I want to express my opinions and beliefs about tourism and its impact on destinations. I feel that, being part of the tourism industry, I have a responsibility towards my home. I manage two vacation rentals (Casina di Rosa south of Siena and Behind the Tower in Pisa) and I contribute to bringing people to Tuscany. I want to contribute to bringing the right people, those who share my view of what traveling means. It’s a bold statement, I know, but there must be a reason if we have met so many great people over the years… I must be persuasive… or terrifying!

I strongly support slow, local and authentic travel, what I defined (a while ago) as “gentle travel” (if you are curious you can also see this post about the various “labels”). I believe that there are many more places that deserve to be known and appreciated than just the usual tourist routes, and that they must not necessarily be transformed in “theme parks” as has happened to very popular tourist spots. I also believe that there are a lot of stereotypes that need to be fought so that people can truly experience life at the destination for what it really is without changing the destination too much.

So to go back to the original question, I guess the main reason why I write about Tuscany is to offer the local resident’s perspective on what it means to live in a very popular area, on what living here is really like, on what people can and cannot (and should and shouldn’t) expect when they come, and at the same time to promote and to protect this beautiful place which for many might be a destination, but for me is home. Of course all the opinions expressed on this blog are just that: my very own personal opinions and experiences.

Italy Blogging Roundtable

This is the first post in a monthly series called The Italy Blogging Roundtable. Here you can find the posts of the other bloggers who participate in the roundtable and who, like me, tried to answer the question “Why do you write about Italy?”

Alexandra (Arttrav) – On Writing about Italy

Jessica (Italylogue) – About Italy

Melanie (Italofile) -What could I write about Italy that hasn’t been written before?

Rebecca (Brigolante) – Why I write about Italy