Patricia of Got Saga asked me to contribute an article to her blog, and I did with pleasure. This is a slightly longer version of the article I wrote for her.

10 alternative things to do in Tuscany

Tuscany is one of the most popular destinations in Italy. Most travelers to this region, though, don’t venture outside the major landmarks. For this reason, they sometimes go back home thinking that Tuscany is a mostly touristy destination with lots of tourists everywhere. Quite to the contrary, Tuscany has lots of places that are easy to reach even if you choose to base yourselves in one of the popular spots but which are definitely off-the-beaten-path. These places can offer you a completely different image of this amazing region, certainly one of the most beautiful places in the world, and make for outstanding day trips.

1. Vie cave

Tuscany was home to one of the most ancient Italic civilizations: the Etruscans. They were powerful and thriving long before the Romans made their appearance on the scene and visiting the remains of their ancient world is one of the most impressive experiences both for adult and younger visitors to the region. One of the most incredible hikes in the entire region is that though the network of roads carved by the Etruscans through tall tuff stone walls near the beautiful town of Pitigliano:  the so-called Vie Cave.  Nobody really knows how Etruscans managed to cut these passages through stone, nor what their actual function was. The most credited hypotheses are that they were either water channels or sacred roads connecting burial grounds and other sacred grounds. A magical walk you won’t easily forget.

(Photo by Sbrinz81)

2. Picnic on Monte Amiata

Most people know that Tuscany is made of gentle rolling hills and open countryside. Most of those landscapes, which are typical of the Val d’Orcia and of the Sienese Crete, were created by an ancient volcano, Mount Amiata. Mount Amiata is the highest peak in the region, at 1700 m above sea level. Its slopes are dotted by small villages and towns, which have a distinct atmosphere. A visit to Mount Amiata is a way to discover a completely different facet of Tuscany, with its beech tree forests, the chestnut groves, the small churches hidden among large volcanic rocks. The woods that cover the top of the mountain are one of the most popular picnic destinations among the locals, who venture there to escape the heat of the long summer days. There are equipped areas where it’s possible to barbecue and sit at one of the many picnic tables. Or you can bring your own picnic food and choose a more private hideaway spot in the woods: it’s never too crowded. If you feel like some sightseeing too, the town of Abbadia San Salvatore has a fabulous medieval abbey, and the drive from Castiglion d’Orcia to Montalcino is simply breathtaking, especially if you are travelling by motorbike.

3. Climbing trees with kids

Italy does not have much which is specifically meant for younger travelers. Tree climbing parks are a notable exception and are perfect for a fun family day on the coast. Cielo Verde Adventure Park is a tree climbing park with itineraries ideal for all different ages. It’s located in the pine tree forest that lines the coast of Marina di Grosseto and makes for a perfect morning activity which can be ideally followed by a relaxing afternoon on the beautiful beach of the Maremma.

4. Horseback ride in the Maremma

The Maremma is a loosely populated area, with plenty of itineraries that are ideally discovered on horseback. Hire a guide for the day, and he will take you through what is considered the wild west of Tuscany, along paths that cut the Mediterranean maquis that covers the hills, through rivers that run through the plains, and past old farm houses and ancient ruins.

(Photo by aeminphilly)

5. Minicruise of the Tuscan archipelago

Tuscany is not only famous for its art heritage: its nature is also just as impressive. Not many people know that the coast of Tuscany is among the best in Italy, and even fewer people know that Tuscany is home to a spectacular archipelago, which is a paradise for divers and sea lovers. If you are on a tight schedule, one great way to enjoy a day at sea is to go on one of the 1 day mini-cruises which set off daily from Castiglione della Pescaia and Porto Santo Stefano and take people to the main islands of the archipelago including the Isle of Giglio, the Isle of Giannutri (a limited-access nature park with a fabulous archaeological site), the Isle of Elba, Capraia, Montecristo and Pianosa. The mini-cruise usually include a seafood meal on board and several stops to visit the islands and take a swim where is allowed.  Yet another way to discover one of the many facets of Tuscany.

(Isola del Giglio, photo by gioanola)

6. San Rossore Nature Park in a carriage

Pisa is famous for its Leaning Tower, but it has many other treasures. One of them is the beautiful nature park of San Rossore, which stretches from the city to the coast. One cool and romantic way to discover the park is to visit it on a horse-drawn carriage, just like the many noblemen and artists who used to spend their vacations in Pisa in the 19^th century used to do it.

(San Rossore in Carrozza)

7. Visit Borgo di Isola santa in Garfagnana

Another area of Tuscany which is very different from the better known images of the region is the mountain area north of Lucca called Garfagnana. This area is dotted by remote towns, semi-abandoned villages, and old large farmhouses where life must have been very hard only 50 years ago. Garfagnana is perfect for hiking but also to spend some time away from it all. One place that certainly allows for an away-from-it-all get away is the hamlet of Isola Santa. The hamlet is on the border of a small lake in the heart of the Apuan Alps. It was abandoned long ago, and some of the houses have recently been renovated and transformed in vacation rental apartments. From the hamlet, trails through the surrounding woods lead to other small abandoned villages: a magic hideaway in Tuscany.

(Photo by Rufux)

8. The monasteries of the Casentino near Arezzo

The wooded area called Casentino, near Arezzo, are the cradle of medieval Tuscany. Since the area is not central to the most popular destinations and definitely not the type of landscape you see on postcards and guidebooks, only few people venture there. Italians, though, love it. The Casentino forest is actually a national park, with great hiking and horseback riding itineraries. The park is dotted by ancient towns with castles and old churches. But the most impressive sites are La Verna and the Camaldoli Hermitages. La Verna is famous because St. Francis of Assisi received his stigmata here and it is a popular destination for pilgrims. Camaldoli is one of the most impressive Benedictine monasteries in Italy, dating back to the 13^th century. Hiking through the Foresta Casentinese to the hermitages is an unforgettable experience.

(Photo by Friar’s Balsam)

9. The Roman-Etruscan sites in Populonia and the beautiful Gulf of Baratti

A daytrip to Populonia and Baratti, on the coast of the Maremma, is a very rewarding experience. Populonia is home to a large Roman-Etruscan archaeological site, with well-preserved remains of houses, public and sacred buildings, burial grounds (necropolis) and roads. The archaeological park is quite big, and there are several itineraries that visitors can follow to visit it and for which you will need between 1 h 30 minutes and 2 hours and 30 minutes. From Populonia, where there is also a great fort on a very panoramic spot, you can walk down to the beautiful cove called Golfo di Baratti and enjoy a day on one of the best beaches in Italy.

(Photo by TuscanyArts)

10. Parco dei Mulini in Val d’Orcia

The Val d’Orcia is one of the most popular areas in Tuscany, but even in such a well-known area there are interesting sites that remain off-the-beaten-path. One of the most impressive is the park created to preserve the ancient medieval mills which supplied the region of Siena with flour. The park is near the pretty town of Bagni Vignone, famous for its thermal baths.

(Photo by gi+cri)

Tuscany is much more than the usual popular spots and venturing out off the beaten path does not mean missing out on something, but enjoying true treasures away from the crowds.

Of course, there are common features, but there are also very distinctive characteristics that make each one of these areas unique and clearly distinguishable from the other ones.

Here is the map of Tuscany again, with the area where my village is marked in white, to show its location relative to the other destinations. It quite a good home base in southern Tuscany, I believe, because it is a short drive away from many different areas of southern Tuscany, so that visiting most of the most popular sites takes only a 30 to 60 minute drive. And you can always go back to a non-touristy, quieter village in the evening and make yourself at home in Tuscany!

Like last time, I have marked down some of the most popular destinations, so that people can have some reference points.

And here is some information on each area!

Val di Chiana. It is the area where a beautiful city like Arezzo, and famous hilltop towns like Cortona, Montepulciano, Chianciano Terme and Chiusi are located. It borders with Umbria and is characterised by breath-taking views.

(Piazza Grande in Montepulciano – Photo by zu78)

Crete Senesi. One of the most spectacular and most representative areas of Tuscany. Famous for truffles and for beautiful towns such as Asciano, Buonconvento, San Giovanni d’Asso, Trequanda and Rapolano Terme. Other attractions include thermal baths, art sites (e.g. Jean-Paul Philippe’s Site Transitoire), and the beautiful Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore.

Valdorcia, the green heart of the region and the place you want to go to to see picture-perfect Tuscany. Home to the hilltowns of Montalcino, Pienza, San Quirico d’Orcia, Bagni San Filippo, and Castiglion d’Orcia; to the Abbey of Sant’Antimo famous for the Gregorian chants; to one of the most popular Tuscan wines, Brunello di Montalcino; to beautiful castles and mills. This is the area of the rolling hills, of the open countryside, of the stone houses dotting the countryside. Contrary to what many believe, the Valdorcia is shared by the provinces of Siena and Grosseto.

(Pienza)

The city of Siena and immediate surroundings. Siena deserves a mention on its own. It’s such a spectacular place. It is also the city of the very famous horse race called the Palio di Siena and of the most traditional Christmas sweets in Tuscany: ricciarelli and panforte!

Val di Merse. The wildest area of the province of Siena, with remote villages, forests, rivers and the beautiful Abbey of San Galgano, cradle of the Arthurian legends and home to the original sword in the stone. Val di Merse is a paradise for hikers, horseback riders and cyclists. And if you happen to be in the area in summer, you should not miss the Opera at the abbey.

Chianti. The most popular area of Tuscany, famous for its wine, for small picturesque villages such as Greve in Chianti, Gaiole, Radda and for castles such as Meleto, Brolio and more. The Chianti area covers parts of the provinces of Siena, Florence and Pisa, but the most popular part of it is the region called Chianti Classico, between Siena and Florence.

(Chianti – Photo by TonyDuckles)

Val d’Elsa has some densely populated areas and other areas that are essentially rural. It boasts famous towns such as Certaldo, Castelfiorentino, Gambassi Terme, which are actually in northern Tuscany, but I have included it here because it also encompasses areas such as the “montagnola senese” (literally “the sienese hill-land”) with villages such as Sovicille and towns like Colle Val d’Elsa, famous its crystal, and the popular villages of San Gimignano and Monteriggioni.

(Monteriggioni – Photo by Paolo Sammicheli)

Casentino. It is a mountain area, mostly woodland. It’s quite wild, and very well preserved since the Middle Ages. For its quiet and beauty this area is almost mystical. It boasts famous hermitages such as Eremo di Camaldoli and Saint Francis’ La Verna. It is also a land of pievi, castles, and medieval villages such as Poppi. A large nature park preserves the forest.

(Parco delle Foreste Casentinesi – Photo by Sheilasan)

The inland hills of the Maremma, also known as Alta Maremma (Upper Maremma). My home village, Civitella Marittima, and our vacation rental in Tuscany, Casina di Rosa, are here. The area is mostly rural and has traits of the Siena area and the Valdorcia and traits of the Maremma. It is very beautiful, a nature paradise with small hilltop hamlets, olive groves and the famous Petriolo hot springs.

(Photo by Gianluca Giannone)

Monte Amiata. The highest mountain in Tuscany: very different from any other place in the region, with chestnut tree woods, mountain villages and towns such as Arcidosso, Santa Fiora, Castel del Piano, Castiglion d’Orcia and the pretty abbey town of Abbadia San Salvadore.

(Arcidosso – Photo by Carlo Tardani)

Colline Metallifere. Also part of the Upper Maremma, this area has very distinctive features and it has been inhabited since the Antiquity because it was very rich in minerals. Massa Marittima is located in the area and it is a real gem.

Maremma. Famous for the unspoilt coastline boasting both rocky and sandy coasts, pretty coastal towns like Castiglione della Pescaia and Talamone, luxury beach areas such as Argentario, a large nature park (Parco naturale della Maremma) and several Etruscan archaeological sites. It is also home to a popular wine: Morellino di Scansano. The Tuscan Archipelago, with the Isle of Giglio, the Isle of Elba and Giannutri, faces the coast of the Maremma.

Area del Tufo. The heart of the ancient Etruscan empire, with towns such as Pitigliano, Manciano, Magliano, Sovana, Sorano and the famous spas in Saturnia. There are many archaeological sites and the breath-taking Vie Cave, ancient roads carved in the stone. Pitigliano also has a ancient Synagogue.

(Pitigliano – Photo by Riccardo08)

Val di Cornia – Maremma Livornese. Val di Cornia includes beautiful towns such as Suvereto and Monterotondo Marittimo which are further north but also the famous Etruscan coast (Costa degli Etruschi). Ferries to the Isle of Elba leave from the town of Piombino. A very interesting place is the archaeological park in Populonia and the walk to the near cove called Golfo di Baratti.

(Golfo di Baratti seen from the Castle of Populonia – Photo by AlessandraElle)

Val di Cecina. This is the Valdorcia of Northern Tuscany. An area that is known to few travelers to Tuscany, and yet it boasts spectacular landscapes, characterized by gentle rolling hills and small hamlets such as Montecastelli and Castelnuovo Val di Cecina. It extends mostly in Nothern Tuscany but I have included it because it also boasts beautiful Volterra, which, contrary to what most people think, it is actually not in the province of Siena but in the province of Pisa.

(Volterra – Photo by Thomas Willemsen)

A final recommendation: take it slow! There is plenty to keep you busy for two weeks or more. You won’t be able to see everything anyway so choose according to your tastes, and remember to take enough time to actually experience Tuscany and its lifestyle and not just “see” it passing by its major landmarks.

Happy planning!

Being St. Valentine’s Day and all, here is a list of ideas of things to do if you choose to spend “il giorno degli innamorati”, the day of lovers, in Tuscany.

1. If you are not scared of heights, and the weather is good, you could go ballooning over the Tuscan countryside. Ballooning Tuscany offers a romantic ride for two with champagne breakfast!
2. Visit one of the cities on a horse-drawn carriage. You could visit Pisa and San Rossore Nature Park or Florence. Or even better, the beautiful countryside surrounding my home village.
3. Spend a relaxing day at the spas: Terme di Petriolo have just reopened near our Casina di Rosa, or the luxury spa Grand Hotel di Petriolo. Near Pisa, my favourite spa is certainly Grotta Giusti, but Bagni di Pisa and Uliveto Terme are also a nice choice for guests of our Behind the Tower apartment in Pisa.
4. Have dinner at a restaurant that is just for the two of you! Paperino in San Miniato, near Pisa, serves only 2 people at a time. A similar restaurant is Le Soir a Pescia.
5. Take a cooking class for two and learn how to cook Italian aphrodisiac foods!

You can do all these activities on any day, not just Valentine’s Day! So I guess, yes: Tuscany is a very romantic place!

We had planned to attend Festa della Pina on Monte Amiata, by the beautiful Pieve ad Lamulas near Arcidosso, but from my window in Civitella I can see that it’s pouring on the top of the mountain. So, no point in going.

We have had many guests at Casina di Rosa, our vacation rental near Siena, ask what they could do if it rains while they are here in Tuscany. This is certainly a place where you can have a completely different experience when the weather is nice, being the perfect spot for drives, hikes and lazy wandering around in the countryside and to the hill-top towns of southern Tuscany such as Montalcino and Pienza or Massa Marittima and Pitigliano.

So, here are 10 things to do in Tuscany when it rains (besides hoping for the sun to come back soon!):

• the obvious: visit a museum or an exhibition. Siena is just 35km away and it has some incredible galleries and museums, and frequent temporary exhibitions as well. The website of the Fondazione Musei Senesi has a nice collection of links to museums in the city and in the province. Another useful website to check is Terre di Siena, the official APT website. Florence is just over 1 hour drive, no need to provide links for the museums in the regional capital city: Uffizi and Accademia are just two of the many options available. Maybe one could choose a less visited museum such as one of the minor museums of Florence or one of the museums in the Chianti area, or the Ciclomuseo Bartali, a museum dedicated to cycling,  or a thematic museum such as Museo del Tessuto (textiles) in Prato, the four science museums in Florence, the wine museum in Greve in Chianti or  the Museo della Civiltà Contadina (rural life) in Montemassi. Grosseto and the Maremma area have much to offer too in terms of museums. Grosseto is home to a beautiful archaeological museum and if you like archaeology, the AMAT museums association website is a goldmine of information on museums and sites in Tuscany, including the beautiful Museum of Palazzo Orsini in Pitigliano. If you are travelling with kids, something they might like is the Museo d’Arte per Bambini (Art Gallery for Children) in Siena, or the Museo dei Ragazzi di Firenze. I also remember having enjoyed the museums in Massa Marittima very much when I went there as a kid. There are a mining museum in an old mine, an old olive press and an old carpenter shop and you can also visit a medieval tower, besides a beautiful archaeological museum and a museum dedicated to sacred art. Or you could try and scare them a bit at the Museo della Tortura in San Gimignano.
• Take a cooking class. You can choose among a plethora of courses. If you wish to learn traditional family cooking in Tuscany, we can arrange a cooking class for our guests at our place, and then enjoy a meal and a good glass of wine together!
• Go on an olive oil tasting tour. We can help our guests arrange a great olive oil tasting tour in our area of Tuscany. You visit an olive press and then try out different types of olive oil. If the weather is not too terrible, you can visit the olive groves, but otherwise, you can enjoy looking at the olive trees from a comfortable chair in a Tuscan farm kitchen!
• Learn everything about the wines of Tuscany in the heart of Siena. It might not be the same as visiting a vineyard, but it can be just as as good an experience if you want to get to know the different wines and it can serve as a perfect introduction to a more traditional wine tour. The teachers are really expert, and really nice.
• Visit a cheese producer. Tuscany is famous for the quality of its pecorino cheese. You can visit a cheese producer in Volterra, near Pienza, or near Manciano.
• Visit Florence Central Market with Judy of Divina Cucina. She knows everything and everybody there and she knows the products too!
• Take an art class. You can learn to make a ceramic vase, to paint, or spend the day in a goldsmith’s workshop.
• Spend a day at a spa. In the area there are many wellness centers, such as the Grandhotel Terme di Petriolo, Terme di Saturnia and more.
• Visit the Abbey of Sant’Antimo and enjoy the Gregorian Chants.
• Go shopping at one of the outlets, such as the Valdichiana Outlet Village.

Or just stay home and cuddle!

The celebrations have their origins in the 5th century, when Pope Gelasius I substituted Saint Valentine’s day for the ancient fertility rituals dedicated to the Roman God Lupercus and practiced by the Romans until then.

Christianity transformed Lupercalia into a day dedicated to Bishop Valentine of Interamma, patron saint of young lovers, martyred under Emperor Lucius Domitius Aurelianus. Tradition has it that his remains can be found in Terni in the basilica that carries his name.

3 things to do on Saint Valentine’s Day for free

1. Nothing is more romantic than taking a walk in a beautiful place. And it’s free.
   • A walk at Le Piagge in Pisa. Le Piagge is a park along the river Arno, just outside the immediate city center of Pisa. It’s a very quiet place, with plenty of benches to sit and watch the river flow by. It’s closed to car traffic, so it’s very peaceful.
   • A walk in Piazza dei Miracoli after dark: spectacular. And very, very romantic. When the crowds have left, you might be the only ones there. The Field of Miracles at night is impressive, thanks to the contrast between the bright green lawn and the white marble buildings lit by purple lights. So beautiful!
   • A walk in the countryside in Southern Tuscany. There are many beautiful minor country roads that are perfect for a romantic walk. I have recently written a guest post for the Velvet Escape Blog about a beautiful walk near Casina di Rosa, along the Via Leopoldina.
   • A walk along the “Vie Cave” near Pitigliano, in the Southern Maremma. Mysterious and beautiful! They were ancient Etruscan roads, carved in stone. See this picture of one of the “Vie Cave“. Pitigliano itself and the “Tuff area” are beautiful and perfect for a day trip in Tuscany.
   • A walk on the beach in winter: is there anything more romantic than walking on the beach with your significant other on bright winter’s day? The stretch of coast between Marina di Grosseto and Castiglione della Pescaia, in the Maremma, is ideal. There is a large pine wood forest which keeps the noise of the cars away and the beach is large, sandy and there are beautiful dunes. It’s just spectacular. Another really beautiful place is the beach at Marina di Alberese, part of the Maremma Nature Park. A third option is Marina di Vecchiano, in the National Park of San Rossore, near Pisa. And if you prefer more dramatic, rocky coastlines, Il Romito, near Livorno or the rocks on the Isle of Giglio are perfect for your very romantic Saint Valentine’s walk.
2. Enjoy the natural hot springs in Petriolo or Saturnia. Yes, it’s free, and sexy!!!
3. Visit the Abbeys and small country churches that dot the Tuscan countryside.
   • The Abbey of San Galgano is mysterious and charming. It’s connected with the Arthurian legend of the sword in the stone, which is said to have originated here. A sword in the stone is venerated in the Monastery of Monte Siepi. It’s possible to walk from the village of Monticiano to the abbey crossing fields and woods. Very romantic: it’s a magic place.
   • The Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore. This abbey still houses a Benedictine community. It’s located in the spectacular landscape of the Crete Senesi, quintessential Tuscany.
   • The Abbey of Sant’Antimo, near Montalcino, where you can listen to Gregorian chants. Perfect location for a walk in the surrounding countryside as well.
   • Pieve ad Lamulas, a beautiful and ancient church immersed in a chestnut grove near the village of Arcidosso on Monte Amiata. Ideal location for a walk in the chestnut groves of the highest mountain in Tuscany. It’s off-the-beaten-path but definitely well worth it.
   • The chapel of the Madonna di Vitaleta, probably the most photographed chapel in Tuscany.
   • The Abbey of San Piero a Grado near Pisa.
   • The ancient Ardengheschi Abbey near my home village.

5 inexpensive romantic things to do in Tuscany

1. Climb to the top of some famous tower and tell your significant other you love him or her.
   • Climb up the Leaning Tower of Pisa (15 euros)
   • Climb up Torre Grossa in San Gimignano (7,5 euros)
   • Climb up Torre del Mangia in Siena (7 euros)
   • Climb up Florence Cathedral Belltower, Campanile di Giotto (6 euros)
   • Climb up Torre Guinigi in Lucca (3,5 euros)
2. Visit a garden.
   • Pisa Botanic Garden, the most ancient in Europe (2,50 euros)
   • Gardens of the Mansions near Lucca or Ville Lucchesi (5-10 euros)
   • Rent a tandem bike and bike around Lucca city walls (5,50 euros per hour or 12 euros per day)
   • Visit Pisa and the Park of San Rossore, down to the coast, on a horse-drawn carriage (9-15 euros). Similar prices for the same type of activity in Lucca, or Florence.
3. Visit a chocolate factory: I can recommend De Bondt, much appreciated chocolate producers from Pisa. I believe the visit to the laboratory itself is free but it’s practically impossible to get out of there without buying some of their delicious chocolate.
4. Visit a winery or an olive oil producer: the choice of wineries to visit in Tuscany is huge. Some of the wineries, such as Perazzeta in the village of Montenero d’Orcia are very inexpensive (approx 10 euros per person). We organize low-cost wine tours and inexpensive olive oil tours for our guests and can help small groups (2-6 people).
5. Enjoy a relaxing day at a spa center. As with the wine and olive oil tours, spa treatments can be very expensive or very inexpensive. A great place to go for an inexpensive and romantic St.Valentine’s Day is Podere Santa Maria. Book their indoor hot jacuzzi pool just for the two of you (15 euros per hour + 10 euros for a robe and slippers if you need them), and try their restaurant afterward: they serve hearty Tuscan food in a beautiful and inexpensive countryside restaurant. Their specialty is the “antipasto”, a full meal in itself.

5 more pricey romantic things to do in Tuscany

1. Enjoy a romantic meal in a beautiful restaurant
   • La Locanda nel Cassero offers delicious meals for 25-50 euros per person
   • Fattoria Nuova Pievanella provides an amazing framework for your special St. Valentine’s Day (from 30 euros per person)
   • Boutique Events can recommend many other romantic locations
2. Go to a top-scale spa center
   • Grand Hotel Terme di Petriolo: day-spa from 60 euros.
   • Grotta Giusti Spa and Golf Center: from 125 euros per day per person.
3. Take a hot-air balloon trip over the Tuscan countryside, and for a very exclusive experience you can also have a champagne breakfast (approx. 250 euros).
4. Take a cooking class for 2: there are many options for a cooking class in Tuscany. We offer low-cost cooking classes to our guests but there are many other options.
5. Go shopping for that perfect Saint Valentine’s Day gift! Take a shopping tour in Florence (from 5oo euros per person)