What is Tuscany like in September?

September is usually one of the most pleasant months of the year to be in Tuscany. It is still warm, with summer-like weather, but not hot. This year (2011), we have had an exceptionally hot September, but this is highly unusual.

Usually, the first half of the month is hotter than the second half. In early September, most people are still going to the beach regularly. It is warm enough that you can comfortably wear your summer clothes from dawn to dusk, and it is still great weather for dining outdoors and using swimming pools.

(Photo by Been Around)

In hilly areas like ours, you might already need a light, long-sleeve shirt in the mornings and evenings. Air-conditioning is not necessary anymore, because temperatures rarely go above 25°C and the humidity is low because of the cool September breeze.

(Photo by Around Tuscany)

There is usually a real change in the air. The sky becomes clearer, the air crispy. The first late summer showers bring about that great smell of wet hay that announces that fall is just around the corner.

By mid September, temperatures are usually lower, around 22-23°C. A light jacket might be necessary in the mornings and evenings. Sometimes the wind is quite cool. It is still pleasant enough to have dinner “al fresco” (but it is usually too cold for short sleeves at night), go to the beach and use swimming pools, at least during the warmest time of the day (between 11am and 4pm).

The real change in the air happens at this point, both physically and metaphorically. It gets cooler, of course, and the mornings are characterized by beautiful misty views and pink dawns. Showers and storms become more frequent, but they are still occasional.

School starts again and life goes back to its normal rhythms after the summer holidays (see the latest round of posts of the Italy Blogging Roundtable about going “back to school“). The positive side of this is that everything is open and thriving. The negative side is that, in cities, traffic goes back to evil.

The Grape Harvest

September is the time of the year when grapes are harvested. Well, when I was a kid my grandfather insisted that grapes should not be picked before October, but over the years the climate has changed so much that October is just too late now. The large wine estates start picking at the end of August. My family harvests grapes in September.

This is a good time of the year to go visit wineries. Remember to call ahead if you don’t join a wine tour, because it is a very busy time of the year and some wineries might not accept unexpected visitors. (Here is a link to a nice Wine Tour in Maremma. We went in August, but you can get an idea of places to go to in the area. And for more information on wine trails in our area, check this page about the wines of Tuscany).

If you decide to stick to cities, you won’t “feel” the grape harvest much. But if you go to any village in the countryside of Tuscany, you can really feel it in the air… or rather… smell it! Everybody has a little patch of land with a few vines, and you will see plenty of people unloading crates of grapes in front of their cellars in the village, washing the machine you use to press grapes, etc. The smell of must is intoxicating!

(Photo by mahlisuh)

Many people ask whether it is possible to participate in the grape harvest. Unfortunately, by law, only contracted and insured workers can work in the fields, so it likely won’t be possible to actively participate in the grape harvest. However, if you participate in a wine tour, wineries might let you pick a few grapes just to let you experience how it’s done. It depends on the wine estate and how flexible they are.

What is in season in September?

Nowadays you find all kind of fruit and vegetables all year round. In Italy however, we still tend to stick to what is in season, and believe me seasonal fruit and vegetables taste so much better!

(Photo by jo mclure)

So, if you happen to be in Tuscany in September, you can still find the last peaches and plums of the season, although they are not very good, but most importantly you can eat grapes and figs, which are in full swing in September. The first pears and apples are available, but they are not commonly grown in Tuscany, especially apples. The vegetable garden still offers decent tomatoes, carrots, green beans, egg plants, new potatoes, and bell peppers. The first fennels, leeks, broccoli, pumpkins, Brussel sprouts, cabbages of different types and cauliflowers usually make their appearance in mid to late September. Last but not least, mushrooms could be available if the weather is right and truffles are in season!

You might be able to taste fresh game meat: September is the month when the hunting season starts. Only certain birds can be hunted, and the most appreciated of all, the pheasant, can be hunted only after the third Sunday of September. If you go for a walk in the woods, make sure to wear something in bright colours.

Sagre or Village Festivals

September is a popular month for village festivals, so if you want to experience joining in the celebrations this is a good month. They are usually festivals dedicated to seasonal products.

Some festivals and fairs in our area are:

• Sagra della Granocchia (dedicated to frogs) in Paganico – first weekend of September
• Sagra della Salsiccia (dedicated to sausage) in Pari – last weekend of September

Other popular festivals and fairs which might be worth being incorporated in your travel plans are:

• Festa dell’Uva (dedicated to the grape harvest) in Scansano, home to the Morellino DOC Wine – mid to late September
• Festa dell’Uva (dedicated to the grape harvest) in Cinigiano, home to the Montecucco DOC Wine – last weekend of September
• Maremma Food Shire – Braccagni,organized for the first time this year, this promises to be an interesting yearly event about the products of the Maremma.
• Sagra del Vinsanto e del Ciambello (dedicated to vinsanto and a type of traditional biscuits) in Montepulciano – usually the second last weekend of September
• Festa della Bistecca e del Fungo Porcino (dedicated to T-bone steaks and porcini mushrooms) in Certaldo, usually every weekend in September
• Mostra mercato del tartufo e del fungo (dedicated to truffles and mushrooms) in Palaia – last weekend of September
• Sagra del tartufo bianco e del fungo porcino (dedicated to white truffle and porcini mushrooms) in San Miniato, near Pisa – one of the most popular – late September.

What tourist season is September?

The first week of September is usually still considered high-season. But most hotels, vacation rentals etc. will consider Septemer mid-season. This means that travelling in September you can get great weather, lower prices, smaller crowds and a more authentic experience of life in Italy.

Moreover, you might be able to get some nice last minute deals because the tourist demand decreases.

Planning to get married in Tuscany?

September is a popular month for weddings. It is still warm enough to have an outdoor wedding ceremony and reception. If you plan on getting married in Tuscany in September, you need to start planning at least 9 months in advance, possibly a full year, because wedding venues book up early. If you need help planning your September wedding in Tuscany, we recommend you get in touch with Boutique Events.

I associate that very special feeling with the ripe blackberries that all of a sudden cover the bushes that flank the countryside lanes around the village. Late August and early September is essentially that to me… the blackberry season!

I have very fond memories of the days around the time when the blackberries ripen.  First of all, usually, that is the time in the summer when the weather starts to change: the temperatures start to go down (not this year apparently…), days get shorter, thunderstorms start to give the countryside that very special smell of wet hay and of the end of the summer.

When I was a young child, I occasionally went for a “blackberry picking expedition” with my great-grandmother along the road that leads to the old abbey by the river Lanzo. I had a tiny basket and of course I never manage to fill it because blackberries are never incredibly abundant. And because we would eat half of what we picked!!! That’s why I was always amazed when I stopped and my grandparents’ place and saw the lady living above them (now actually above us!) making blackberry jam in a large pot in the street. The smell was divine! Her jam was famous in the entire village. She spent days picking blackberries to maybe make 20 jars of jam, one of which was always for me! It seemed such an amazing treat! I’ve never had such delicious blackberry jam after she stopped making it!!!

When I got older, I started to go on long walks with my friends. It was the first taste of “freedom” because we could walk to places where there were no “vigilant grown-up eyes” on us. We would walk for 3 to 4 hours and pick blackberries, and chat… those long, open-hearted chats you can only have when you are a teenager and your best friends mean the world to you. Those are the sweetest memories. With those few berries we would make a cake, or we would put them on fiordilatte icecream when we would finally be back from our walk and stop at the small bar at the entrance of the village.

The young kids nowadays don’t seem to be interested in going for a walk in the countryside anymore. Nor is it probably as safe as it used to be. But for those who, like me, grew up looking forward to “il tempo delle more“, the blackberry season, the end of the summer is always the time when you look out for those delicious wild berries!

Here are a couple of links to some delightful blog posts by a friend who like me shares this passion for blackberries!

• About hedgerows and blackberries: Macaroon Tart and
• Apple + Blackberries = Jam

by Giulia, aka the amazing food blogger of Juls’ Kitchen

The weather this summer has been a bit crazy up to now. We had a cool June, a very hot early July and a cool and rainy second half of the month. It has been raining quite a lot, and the temperature is lower than it usually is at this time of the year, but the countryside after a summer rainfall is spectacular!

Here are some more shots we have taken over the past few days!

It’s no big deal though, because I get to spend more time in my home village, and that is always a nice change from the busier rhythms of the city. It’s almost like being on holiday.

This year we have decided it has to be exactly like being on holiday. Since we cannot leave, we have decided to have a “staycation“, a vacation at home. If so many people travel from all over the world to come spend a week here, we thought, why can’t we do the same? And so we have decided to make a virtue of necessity!

I guess there are many ways to take a staycation in Tuscany: we could go explore the many beautiful places we haven’t seen yet, but we have decided to spend some time at my parents’ house in the countryside and just relax instead. We are always in the car driving back and forth between Pisa and Civitella: I want a few days where I can stay put. Well… almost.

This is actually not very different from what we usually do when we travel abroad anyway: we like the quiet of the countryside and we always choose destinations that allow us to spend some time in scenic spots. We are so lucky to own a tiny piece of the wonderful countryside of Tuscany, so, that’s this year’s hideaway for us!

We have packed a lot of books, as we plan on reading as much as we can. Hopefully the weather will be good this week and we will be able to enjoy the shade under the oak trees. I’ve also gathered a number of recipes that I have wanted to try for a while: the vegetable garden, the chicken coop and the orchard will provide us with most of what we need for the week!

I have set out to use my best tableware and kitchenware too, the type of things you buy because you love them, and then you rarely use them because they seem too nice… well, nothing is too nice for us this week! My husband always makes fun of me, because I buy the nicest things for our vacation house, Casina di Rosa, and keep the cheapest things for ourselves! Not this time!

We plan on spending some time walking the trails with our dog, having a nice garden party with some friends, gardening, and generally enjoying the beautiful, quiet countryside.

So yesterday we said… Let’s the staycation begin! We spent our first day in the countryside and loved it. The weather was overcast: big dark clouds in the morning and early afternoon, which made for the perfect weather to unpack, have a nice lunch and curl up on the sofa for an afternoon nap while a brief summer storm raged outside. The cool wind that accompanies the summer rain is amazing. And the smell of the countryside after a sudden shower is also unmistakeable!

Not sure if my husband was as enthusiastic about the rain as I was, because so it happened that our dog needed to go out right in the middle of a heavy shower (and of the Grand Prix…) and both of them came back soaking wet and muddy!

By 5pm though, the sun was back. The light was great, the temperature was cool, and the table in the garden was finally dry enough that we could have a warm tea under the trees. 

I think when you are on holiday, the small details make all the difference. This is why we try to fit our vacation homes with nice things to make them as cozy as we can. Fresh flowers, nice china, different types of tea… a perfect tea break!

We also got to spend some time reading in the late afternoon summer breeze.

After some gardening, our guests arrived so my husband went to check them in, while I started preparing dinner: pork filet with apples and roast potatoes! Delicious!

A movie and it was bed time!

This morning we had to have an early start, because my husband had to go see a client in Florence… the first interruption of our staycation (not for me though!). Opening the windows at 7am and being able to walk out the dog in my pyjamas might seem a simple pleasure for those of you who are used to having a private, fenced garden… but for us living in Italy, where having a garden is a luxury and a private one is a dream, this felt absolutely great! The sun was warm, the air was crisp. Just perfect for a quick walk with the dog before a cappuccino and a croissant!

Let the staycation continue!!!

While I was waiting for the dog to finish sniffing around and checking every single blade of grass that hasn’t already turned yellow under the sun of this warm spring, I smelled it: the smell of the end of the school year, the smell of the beginning of the summer holidays. Well, technically schools won’t close for another month, but the air already has “that smell” of grass and wild flowers and hay… of summer. And that means that the warm evenings are here, the long days have arrived, when you have plenty of time to finish your homework and still go out with your friends before dinner.

It’s funny how, for some people, memories and smells are interwoven. And the most fascinating thing is how they hit you all of a sudden, when you least expect it, and they bring back “things” you hadn’t thought of in a long time. Sometimes they bring about the awareness of things that you had never noticed before.

Today it was a bit like that: I had never realized that the smell of the wildflowers and the overgrown grass in the fields meant “almost the holidays” to me. It was a great feeling! I had the instinct to sit down on the grass and lay in the sun… of course I didn’t because my dog had already taken care of most of those patches of tall grass! LOL

BUT, now I am left with the desire to take my book and go read under an oak tree at my parents’ place in the countryside or to go have a picnic somewhere on Monte Amiata, on some lawn where I can walk on the grass with bare feet! Better start planning!

I have just received the newsletter from the tourist office in Pisa with a list of some of the events that will liven up the city and its territory! The list is not exhaustive but these should be the main events.

Volterra: The Leaning Tower in Alabaster

From April 20 to December 31, 2011
Visitors can admire the extraordinary alabaster copy of the Leaning Tower of Pisa at the Sala Ex Ospedale Civile in Piazza San Giovanni in Volterra. The sculpture is 2.4m tall and has been created by the members of the Arte in Bottega craftsmen’s guild. The statue is a unique masterpiece which displays the outstanding skillfulness of the alabaster craftsmen in Volterra and an exceptional attention to detail.
www.torrependenteinalabastro.com

A Night at the Spa

San Giuliano Terme, May 5-12-19-26, 2011
From 8pm until midnight: thermal pools, sauna, Turkish bath, relaxation areas, aperitifs and light snacks for an exclusive and unusual evening. 35 euros per person. Reservation is required.
www.bagnidipisa.com

Maggio in Musica

Calci, May 6-13-20-27, 2011
The Propositura di Calci, Stefano Messerini music school, the Corale Santa Cecilia, the Filarmonica G. Verdi, with the sponsorship of the Town Council of Calci and of the Unità Pastorale della Valgraziosa, present “Maggio in Musica”: a series of concerts held in Calci at the ancient Romanesque Pieve (May 6 and 27 at 9:15pm) and at the Valgraziosa Theatre (May13 and 20, at 9:15pm).
Entrance is free.
Info:
almanaccodicalci.blogspot.com

A Walk in the Italian Risorgimento

Pontedera, Montopoli in Val d’Arno, Santa Maria a Monte, Sunday May 15, 2011
A walk through historical landmarks in the Pisan Valdarno to discover the mansions which once belonged to some of the protagonists of the Italian Risorgimento. The walk celebrates the 150th anniversary of the unification of the country.
Program:

• 2pm – Departure from the parking lot of the Cineplex complex in Pontedera
• 2.30pm – Montecastello: arrival at the Villa Torrigiani-Malaspina
• 4.00pm – Le Pianora: arrival at the Villa Mayer-Passerin d’Entreves-Scaramucci
• 5.00pm – Marti: arrival at the Villa Majnoni-Baldovinetti
• 6.00pm – Varramista: arrival at Villa Capponi-Farinola-Piaggio (complimentary wine tasting offered by the Varramista winery)

Return to Pontedera between 7.30 and 8.00 pm.
Dinner in the Italian Risorgimento Style
Those who wish to experience a dinner as it would have been at the time of the Italian Risorgomento can join us at the club Il Cavatappi (30 € per person). This walk is made possible by the kindness of the present owners of the historic buildings mentioned who have enthusiastically agreed to open their homes to visitors.
Reservation is required.
Max number of participants: 80
Price for the walk: 10 € to be paid in cash before departure.
Transportation between the various stops of the tour is provided by the City Councils of Pontedera and Santa Maria a Monte.
Info and reservations:
Centro per l’Arte Otello Cirri
Tel. 0587 57282 (from Monday to Friday 10am-12pm)

Festa del Parco

Parco di Migliarino, San Rossore, Massaciuccoli, from May 19 to 29, 2011
11 days rich in events aimed at promoting the Regional Parks of the region and their wildlife and vegetation.
www.parcosanrossore.org

Cortelandia

Castelfranco di Sotto, Saturday May 21, 2011
Two days of walks in the heart of the Cerbaie, through fields and woodlands, on easy trails marked by boards made by the pupils of the local schools and serviced by kiosks serving refreshments.

• Saturday, 21 May: Guided walk through the fields of Villa Campanile and along the ancient trail of the via Francigena (Galleno).
• Sunday 22 May: Guided walk in the forest of Serradigo-Macchione to the eco-museum at Macchione in Orentano.
• On Saturday night participants can participate in a “veglia” (vigil).
• Related events:
• Saturday 21: walk in the oasis of carnivorous plants (ex opera Landini) in Fucecchio (Fi).
• Sunday 22: show dedicated to Tree Climbing and to the use of donkeys for the transportation of firewood, S. Maria a Monte (PI).
• Saturday 21 and Sunday 22: playing in nature: the Robinson Park, S. Croce sull’Arno (PI).

All events are free of charge.
Length of the walks: from 9.00am to 8.00pm
Departure: Villa Campanile, Orentano and Galleno.
Refreshments are not included.
Wear comfortable clothes and shoes suitable for hiking.
Info:
Consorzio Forestale delle Cerbaie
Tel. 0583 23006; cell. 334 8027631;  fax. 0583 238834
cfc@consorzioforestalecerbaie.it – www.consorzioforestalecerbaie.it

Mangialonga

Pontedera, Sunday May 22, 2011
La Mangia… longa (play on words with the words marcia, march, and mangia, to eat, in marcialonga, marcelónghe) is a long walk dedicated to the local food and drinks. The walk will take participants through hills and villages in the Pontedera area.
Participants will depart from the Valdera Equitazione “Lo Scoiattolo” horseback riding center, will stop in Treggiaia at the Church of the Madonna di Ripaia and in Montecastello and then will return to “Lo Scoiattolo”.
At each one of these destinations participants will taste a traditional dish so that by the end of the walk they will have had a full meal accompanied by local wines of the Valdera region.
Moreover, at 9.30am it is possible to participate in the event “Aspettando la Mangia….longa – L’appetito vien camminando…” (literally, “waiting for the Mangia…longa – Appetite grows with eating”), a short 5km walk in the hills around Treggiaia (also starting from the Lo Scoiattolo Centre).
Meeting point: “Lo Scoiattolo” di Treggiaia, a large parking lot is available.
Departures: 11.20am, 11.40am, 12.00pm, 12.20pm, 12.40 pm (groups of max 100 people)
Fee:
Adults € 20,00. Children (6 to 10 y.o.) € 10,00. Children of 5 y.o.and younger: free of charge.
Reservations are accepted from 4 April to 14 May.
Info:
Ufficio Turistico Pontedera
tel. 0587 53354
ufficioturistico@comune.pontedera.pi.it – www.comune.pontedera.pi.it

Palio dei Barchini

Castelfranco di Sotto, Sunday May 29, 2011
The tradition of the Palio dei Barchini con le ruote (literally, the Palio of small boats on wheels) stems from the desire to revive the old rivalry among the local sandmen who, on important occasions, used to compete on their small boats in the river Arno. The present palio, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, is a modern recreation of the old challenge and it is held on unique “boats on wheels” “sailed” by two rowers… on the road.
Each boat represents one of the four village neighbourhoods or contrada (San Pietro a Vigesimo, San Michele in Caprugnana, San Bartolomeo a Paterno and San Martino in Catiana), named after the churches of the four ancient medieval hamlets.
The Palio takes place in the afternoon and is preceded in the morning by a parade in period costume with musicians, flag wavers and a different theme every year.
Moreover, there are many satellite events to entertain visitors to the village on the days which precede and follow the Palio, among which a smaller version of the Palio, called il Palio Rosa, a tug-of-war competition and a medieval dinner.
This year’s dates: May 29, 25th Palio dei Barchini con le Ruote; June 26, a special Palio on the occasion of the Holiday of Corpus Domini like in 1987, when the Palio was organised for the first time.
Info
Comune di Castelfranco di Sotto
www.comune.castelfranco-di-sotto.pi.it
Comitato Palio dei Barchini con le Ruote
info@paliodeibarchini.it – www.paliodeibarchini.it

Cantine Aperte (Open Cellars)

Terricciola, Sunday May 29,2011
www.comune.terricciola.pi.it

Bagno Sotto Le Stelle (A Bath under the Stars)

Casciana Terme, from June 3, 2011
www.comune.cascianaterme.pi.it

Urban Trekking

Pontedera, Sunday June 4, 2011
www.comune.pontedera.pi.it

Giugno Pisano (June Celebrations in Pisa)

Pisa
1 – 8 – 15 – 22 – 29 June 2011: Night lights in the churches of Pisa
Special night opening of the churches of Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri, San Sisto, San Pietro in Vinculis and Santa Cristina(9pm-12am).
From 1 to 26 July 2011: Donne d’Italia. La metà dell’unità
The exhibit hosted by Palazzo Blu is dedicated to outstanding women on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of the Unification of Italy and will be open every night until 10pm from Monday to Friday and until 11pm on Saturdays and Sundays.
June 16, 2011: Luminara di San Ranieri.
Special jubilee edition celebrating the 850th anniversary of the death of the Patron Saint of the City of Pisa.
17 June 2011: Palio di San Ranieri
From 17 June: night opening of the Leaning Tower and of the Monumental Cemetery in Piazza dei Miracoli.
25 June 2011: Gioco del Ponte

Il Mare nel Bicchiere (The Sea in your Glass)

Various coastal towns, from June 2, 2011
Aperitifs on the waterfront of the coastal towns of the Pisa province: Marina di Pisa, Tirrenia and Calambrone.

Museo Arti e Mestieri

Castelnuovo Val di Cecina, Saturday June 11, 2011
Inauguration of the Museo delle Arti e dei Mestieri della Toscana (Museum of the crafts and trades of Tuscany) in Sasso Pisano
www.comunecastelnuovovdc.it

Concert

Certosa di Calci, Saturday June 18, 2011

Notte Bianca (The White Night)

Pontedera, Saturday June 18, 2011
www.comune.pontedera.pi.it

Notte Rossa (The Red Night)

Volterra, Saturday June 25, 2011
www.volterratur.it

Notte Bianca (The White Night)

Terricciola, Saturday July 9, 2011
www.comune.terricciola.pi.it

Musicastrada

From July 17, in many towns of the Province of Pisa.
28 free concerts in the most beautiful towns of the Province of Pisa. A month-long journey through this territory rich in traditions, folklore and emotions.
The full program is available at www.musicastrada.it

Teatro del Silenzio 2011 – Bravo China

Lajatico, Thursday July 21, 2011
The 2011 edition will have a special flavour, because Teatro del Silenzio and its Honorary President, Maestro Andrea Bocelli, have enthusiastically accepted the proposal of the Ambassador of the People’s Republic of China and will host “Bravo China“.
“Bravo China” is a show in which internationally acclaimed Chinese artists meet the most renowned interpreters of the host country in the fields of “bel canto”, ballet and pop music to create an exceptional performance which fosters an outstanding convergence of cultural and artistic traditions from two far-off countries such as China and Italy, bringing them closer on this occasion of this unique appointment at the Teatro del Silenzio. The past 9 editions have touched the 5 continents, including venues such as Hollywood, Rio de Janeiro the Acropolis in Athens and the Kremlin in Moscow.
The Italian cast includes the violinist Uto Ughi, the Etoile of the Opéra Garnier of Paris Eleonora Abbagnato, and the flautist Andrea Griminelli.
Tickets will be on sale from March 29, on the website: www.fourone.it
From April 4, tickets will be available from authorized online stores such as: www.vivaticket.it and www.ticketone.it .
Info:
www.teatrodelsilenzio.it

Calici di Stelle

Terricciola, Wednesday August 10, 2011
www.comune.terricciola.pi.it

Palio di San Rocco – Veglia Francigena

San Miniato, Monday August 15, 2011
www.cittadisanminiato.it, www.comune.san-miniato.pi.it

A.D. 1398

Volterra, 21 and 28 August 2011
Grand recollection of the glorious past of Volterra: fiery knights on their horses, proud noblemen, beautiful ladies, craftsmen and merchants, peasants and commoners, flag wavers and bowmen, musicians and minstrels will bring the medieval times back to life in the beautiful town.
www.volterratur.it

San Genesio – The City of Children

Casciana Terme, Monday August 22, 2011
The community of Casciana Terme has celebrated Saint Genesio, friend and patron of children, for over 50 years,. For three days, children take charge of the town through the Mayor’s symbolic gift of the keys to the town to the Lord Chamberlain of the Kingdom of Children, interpreted by a local child. Ciambellano, the Italian word for Chamberlain, is also the name of the traditional cake which celebrates this occasion: a ring-shaped cake filled with candied fruit and raisins.
Casciana is closed to traffic for the entire duration of the festival and the centre is “invaded” by cheerful children: the “Land of Toys” comes to life, with street shows, clowns, competitions, book stalls and workshops. www.comune.cascianaterme.pi.it

Walking Festival

Parco di Migliarino, San Rossore, Massaciuccoli, from September 3, 2011
Step by step to gain time. A sequence of slow movements which assume a deeper meaning thanks to the extraordinary set that hosts and guides them. An itinerary on an ideal map which is not only a geographical but also an emotional space.
In the protected environments of the parks, the Walking Festival brings a multitude of events to the 6 main Nature Reserves in Tuscany.
www.tuscanywalkingfestival.it, www.parcosanrossore.org

Then all of a sudden the sky beyond the hilltop where Civitella Marittima, our village, sits went dark. Thunder could be heard in the distance. It didn’t take long for the storm to arrive from Monte Amiata. The countryside suddenly went silent. No cheerful birds, no grumpy cows, no happy hens. Just lowering clouds quickly gathering over the village and over our house, and the rumble of thunder. The rain came “wrapped up” in a whirlwind, with more thunder and lightning. The storm didn’t last more than 20 minutes and left us with a brighter, dazzling sun. All of a sudden the air was cool and clear; a thin, smoke-like steam covered the roads; a distinctive smell of wet straw and earth filled the air.

It was sunset already and while the western sky glimmered over the vineyard colouring  the vines in an intense pink, to the east, a beautiful red full moon was raising in a bright blue sky over the silver olive trees.

Just another perfect summer day in the Maremma.

(Please, click on the symbol on the bottom right-hand corner to see the photos full-screen. If you don’t have Flash, you can see the photos here)

• Monteriggioni di Torri si Corona, July 10-12, Monteriggioni (Siena). Amazing medieval festival with people in period costumes, medieval food, jugglers and street musicians. It’s really worth a visit. The celebrations start everyday at 5 pm.
• Offerta dei Censi, July 10-12, Abbadia San Salvatore (Siena). The festival re-enacts the payment of the taxes to the Abbot of the monastery by the people living in the castle of Abbadia San Salvatore. The medieval shops and the cellars are really lovely.
• Aspettando la battaglia (Waiting for the battle), July 11 and 12, Cascina (Pisa). A neat festival that commemorates the battle between Pisa and Florence of 1364 that was fought here in Cascina. Medieval food, a market, and craft shops. On Saturday, at 6pm there will be a parade and at 8:30 a medieval dinner. On Sunday more celebrations with falconers.
• Palio di Casole, July 12, Casole d’Elsa (Siena), a horse race where the jockeys ride bareback.
• Medieval Lunigiana (Lunigiana Medievale), July 12-18, Fivizzano (Massa), a series of medieval dinners. Disfida tra gli arceri di Terra e Corte, July 19, Fivizzano (Massa) bowmen’s tournament. (I need to thank James Martin, @wanderingitaly, for this one!).
• La leggenda dell’innamorata e disfida della ciarpa (The legend of the woman in love and the challenge of the scarf), July 14, Capoliveri, Isle of Elba. Festival dedicated to the legend of two young lovers, Lorenzo and Maria, who lived on the island in the 16th century. During a pirate attack on the island, Lorenzo was thrown in the water and Maria jumped in the ocean to follow the destiny of her beloved fiancé. Since then on July 14 the beach of the village is lit up buy hundreds of people with torches. Very romantic.
• Palio di San Valentino, July 12 and 17-19, Bientina (Pisa). On the 12th, a parade in historical costume crosses the town, while on the following weekend the celebrations revolve around the trials and the bizarre “corsa dei briai” (race of the drunken men) taking place at midnight in the night between the 18th and the 19th.
• Mercantia, July 15-19, Certaldo (Florence): international street theater festival.
• Volterra A.D. 1398, July 16, Volterra (Pisa). This is one of the best medieval festivals. The atmosphere of the medieval city is perfectly reproduced in the center of Volterra. You will need the ancient currency, denaro grosso, to shop on the day of the festival. It will be the only currency accepted in shops and restaurants!
• Subereto reditus in medioevo, July 18-19, Suvereto (Livorno). Medieval festival featuring a medieval wedding as its special event. In the 14th century Town Hall a real wedding is celebrated according to medieval customs. The bride and groom are in period costumes and the medieval wedding banquet follows in the Chiostro di San Francesco. A reservation is necessary.
• Palio di San Jacopo, July 18-25, Gallicano (Lucca). The best part of this week of celebrations in honour of Gallicano’s Patron Saint is the Luminara on the 24th. The town is lit with candles.
• Giostra dell’Orso (the bear tournament), July 25, Pistoia. The roots of this tournament go back to the 13th century. The historical quarters of the city compete to win the title of “Cavaliere Speron d’Oro di Pistoia e Contrado” ( literally Golden-Spured Knight of Pistoia and its countryside).
• Palio dell’Antenna, July 31, Livorno, a regatta by the Darsena.
• Massa Medievale, July 31-August 2, Massa e Cozzile (Pistoia). Actors in period costumes, flag wavers and bowmen reenact the medieval past of this old town.

August medieval festivals to follow!

Even though over the last few years air conditioning has become increasingly popular, it is by no means a common feature in Italian houses. Nor is it common to keep the indoor  temperature a very high during the winter months. By law, in public buildings (such as schools, common areas in hotels, etc.) the temperature should never be above 18°C.

This depends probably on the fact that in Italy the cost of gas and electricity is very high, and also that in some areas proper gas-lines are not yet  available or have become available only recently. Over the centuries people have learnt to avoid waste and to find other ways to cope with the winter cold and the summer heat.

Here is a list of suggestions on how to “adjust” to the Italian climate like the locals do!

In Winter…

Our homes are great in the summer, because, being mostly built in stone, they tend to stay cool even in the hottest weather. For this reason, however, in winter they can be quite cold.

The first thing that people travelling to Italy during the winter months have to remember is that, even if here the temperatures are rarely as low as 0°C or lower, we do get some cold days.

Even with the most modern heating systems, you will soon find out that it is very difficult to make a house with stone walls and ceramic floors as warm as a northern European or American insulated wood house. Considering that the hot weather lasts much longer than the cold weather, houses around here are mostly designed to cope with the heat rather than with the cold.

There is not much you can do about that other than being aware that that’s the way things are around here and preparing to dress warmly. Contrary to what happens in other countries, in Italy, short sleeves, pants and skirts are safely stored away in the fall to come back out only in spring.

So if you decide to visit Italy in winter (which by the way is a great time of the year – no crowds, lower prices, good enough weather, and seasonal products such as chestnuts, mushrooms, and the new olive oil) remember to bring warm clothes to wear inside as well as outside, and don’t forget warm pyjamas and socks. I also recommend you bring slippers, because walking with bare feet on cold tiles is not as comfortable as walking on carpets or wooden floors.

And if it gets really cold, you can always enjoy some of the excellent new wine or the local liqueurs! Nothing is better than a bruschetta, some “salsicce alla brace” (grilled sausages) and a good glass of red wine in front of the fireplace!

In Summer…

There are some tricks to beat the summer heat in Tuscany even without air conditioning. Even if most places will have fans, here are a few things you can keep in mind to cope with the hot weather!

Most houses have shutters outside the windows: keep them closed during the hottest hours of the day, but leave the windows open. This keeps air circulating but blocks the sun out, which ensures lower indoor temperatures. When it cools down, normally around 6:30 pm, open all the shutters and the cooler evening breeze will come in.

Drink a lot of water and eat a lot of vegetables and fruit. There are so many delicious seasonal products in the summer! A nice peach, or a cold slice of watermelon is better than any air conditioning system!

Do not drink alcohol during the hottest hours of the day, you will feel even more dehydrated. You should also avoid very cold water: the difference in temperature between inside and outside your body will be too great, and it will make it all worse.

Take warm showers rather than cold showers: if you use hot water, it will seem cooler when you get out of the shower. For the same reason, contrary to what you may think, a visit to the hot springs can really help when it’s very hot outside.

Dress in cotton and avoid synthetic materials.

If you are sightseeing, stop in a bar or a nice restaurant, or even better in a park or a field under some trees and enjoy a couple of slow hours out of the sun before going back to walking around. In the art cities, try to leave the hottest hours of the day to visit the churches:  they are generally very cool. Also, if you decide to visit wineries, make sure you are in the cellars in the early afternoon and leave the outdoor sightseeing for later in the day.

And don’t forget to enjoy ice-cream and granita!