Over the last 30 years most of these shops and professions have disappeared. Finding someone to fix a heel is practically impossible: it’s much easier to throw your shoes away and buy a new pair.

Three great craftsmen’s shops in Tuscany

In our village there is still a very skillful carpenter, Biagio Lampoglia, who has a workshop near our Casina di Rosa. He specializes in restoring old pieces of furniture, and the way he works is absolutely fascinating. His wife has a shop in the nearby village of Paganico called “La Medievale“, where they sell these restored antiques.

My great-grandfather and my grandfather were also carpenters. They actaully made the front door, the windows and some of the pieces of furniture that are still in Casina di Rosa. When we renovated the property, we asked Biagio to restore them and he did an amazing job. He brought them back to their old splendour, in a way that only a gifted craftman could do.

Another amazing “artigiana” is Lorella, the local florist. She is such a talented artist! Not only does she create beautiful flower arrangements but she actually makes beautiful crafts and decorations. She has a shop in the village called Fiori e Dintorni, where she also sells the traditional Tuscan ceramics by another local craftsman.

(Many thanks to Cristiano Brizzi for letting me use his beautiful photo)

In Pisa, “botteghe artigiane” have practically desappeared. There is one, though, which has been one of my favourite since I moved to the city to study at the University there in 1994: Max il Cuoiaio. Max il Cuoiaio is a leather shop which belongs to a craftsman who has been in the business for 30 years and who personally makes every single piece sold in the shop. If you ask him, he will proudly explain that he works according to the ancient local tradition.

I find extremely fascinating the fact that the workshop is in the heart of the ancient quarter of Santa Maria, which used to host the leather workers in the Middle Ages. The location was ideal, being close to the river banks where they could find abundant water, necessary to dress leather.

At Max il Cuoiaio you can find both coloured and natural leather bags, wallets, planners, keychains and suitcases and if you want anything special, they will be happy to custom make anything you want. Many students have the front cover of their graduation thesis (tesi di laurea) custom made.

Besides making leather goods from scratch, the shop also repairs damaged goods, but only if they are made of pure leather.

Contrary to what one would expect, prices are very reasonable. And they have an online shop (both in Italian and English): tradition meets modernity!

Old Trades of Tuscany

Slow travelers to Tuscany might find the “albo degi antichi mestieri di Toscana” interesting. It is an online database listing all the “artigiani” in the region who are keeping alive some ancient trades. I wrote a post about it a while back: “Antichi Mestieri”: Old Trades in Tuscany. It could provide some good ideas for alternative day trips which will take travelers to beautiful places off the beaten path and provide them with a great learning opportunity. There is no better way to get to know the culture of a place than to learn about its history and the way local people used to live.

I can’t wait to take my child to visit some of those workshops, hoping that in a few years they are still thriving and a great living reminder of Tuscany as it used to be.

Italy Blogging Roundtable

This is the eigth post in a monthly series called The Italy Blogging Roundtable. Here you can find the posts of the other bloggers who participate in the roundtable. Our topic this month was “crafts“:

Alexandra (Arttrav) – Stefano Giusti, Modern Luthier

Jessica (Why Go Italy) – The Guide to Crafts in Italy

Melanie (Italofile) – Marble Run: Shopping for Traditional Marbled Products in Italy

Rebecca (Brigolante) – Crafts in Umbria

I haven’t been blogging very regularly this month, because, as most of you who read my blog on a regular basis know, we have just had a baby: Liam! He has certainly turned our lives upside down, but we are finally finding new rhythms and adjusting to our new existence as parents.

2011 has been a great year for us. We have welcomed Liam into our lives, I got tenure, we bought a new car, we had a fabulous season with our vacation rentals in Tuscany and, thanks to that, we made several new friends!

There were some sad moments. We lost some dear ones, who are and will be certainly missed. But life is like that: it’s made of great moment and very sad ones. I am simply very thankful that I have amazing people around me to make the “ride” so pleasant.

Let’s hope 2012 is a serene year too, both for us and for all of you who are reading this post.We have much to look forward too!

This year, we will spend New Year’s Eve at home, trying to keep our eyes open until midnight! As usual, there were many interesting events that we could have attended in Pisa, or Siena.

New Year’s Eve in Pisa will see music in the squares of the city: a great street party and fireworks. In Siena, there will be the usual concert in Piazza del Campo. We won’t be drinking spumante, but we might be celebrate with a bottle of milk in our hands!

To you all, a very very happy new year! We hope it brings our way many new interesting people and, hopefully, some old friends too!

Pisa is one of the cities in Tuscany (along with Florence) where such complaints are most frequent. This post will hopefully clear up a few points.

What is a ZTL?

ZTL is an acronym which stands for Zona a Traffico Limitato, meaning Limited Traffic Zone. It is an area of the city center that is closed to non-residential traffic. Only city buses, taxis, residents with a valid permit and other authorized vehicles (i.e. delivery vehicles, couriers, etc.), can drive there.

What is the point of having a ZTL?

ZTLs are not created to mess with drivers, either locals or foreigners. There are three main reasons for having ZTLs in cities.

1. Italian cities are old, and the centers of most of them boast historical buildings of great value which are inevitably damaged by traffic. This is undisputable: everybody knows that traffic is bad for old monuments and buildings. It covers them in black powder, it produces vibrations that destabilize them and damages façades.
2. Streets are narrow and pollution is not easily dispersed in the maze of roads that constitute the center of most Italian cities. This impacts badly of the health of the residents of the cities that are most popular with tourists.
3. Cars are noisy, and messy. In order to fully appreciate the beauty of the city center of an old city, you need to be able to reduce the amount of traffic and create pedestrian zones or zones with a low number of vehicles zooming by. It’s safer. It’s prettier. It’s healthier.

For these reasons, most municipalities have decided to create “protected” areas where only the most inevitable traffic is allowed: only residents can drive and park in ZTLs, if they have obtained a special permit from the City. Otherwise, they are not allowed either.

Everybody else, Italian, local or non local, or foreigner, has to stick to the alternative routes where driving is allowed.

How do I know if I am in a ZTL or where they are located?

A common myth is that ZTLs are not clearly marked, on purpose. This is simply false.

ZTLs are clearly marked with large signs, lane restrictions and cameras on big poles. You simply have to know what to look for, so do your homework before coming to Italy.

If you didn’t notice when you passed through one of the ZTLs gates, there is no way to know that you are in a ZTL for sure. Some good clues, though, are:

1. all the parking spaces on the side of the road you are on are free (marked in white)
2. all the cars parked there have local plates
3. all the cars parked there have a special sticker on their windshield
4. you are driving by outstanding monuments and tourist spots
5. there are only few cars moving on the road where you are driving and many pedestrians

What happens if I drive through a ZTL?

You will be fined if you drive past the cameras at the entrance of the ZTL . They are clearly marked, you have to know what to look for, so do your homework before coming to Italy.

You won’t receive the fine until after you have gone back home. It will probably be the car rental agency that will forward it to you. The fines range between €76 and €100.

Please note that you can be fined several times in the space of a few minutes, that is every time you pass under a ZTL camera. Be careful when you drive in a city you don’t know.

Pay attention to the signs indicating mandatory direction or no entry.

How am I supposed to know that ZTLs even exist? Why didn’t the car rental agency warn me?

It is your responsibility to learn about the rules of the road in the country you are about to visit and where you plan on driving. Most guidebooks will have a section about driving at the end.

It is also your responsibility to find out if the road signs look the same, if what is allowed in your home country is also allowed in Italy, etc. Car rental agencies cannot be held responsible for your ignorance on the matter or for you not taking the time to learn about cultural differences before traveling. They might not even be aware of what the customs in your country are, or that ZTLs are a European thing. It’s you who are travelling across cultures, not them. They also have no way to know where you intend to drive.

Also don’t expect signs or warnings in any language other than Italian.

Here is an excellent article about ZTL Zones and Traffic Cameras on Roadways and in Towns in Italy. Please make sure you read it before driving in Italy.

If you are from a non-EU country road signs are different: make sure you learn them. Here is a useful guide to Italian road signs.

If you still have questions, ask your hotel or vacation rental owner about possible things you need to know to drive to your accommodation, e.g. special permits required to reach it or park nearby etc. They are more likely to have those answers than the car rental agencies.

What if I get fined and I am already at home?

You will receive a notification with details for the payment and contact numbers. Pisa has an English and German speaking call center too. You will be asked to pay by bank trasnfer.

You can try an appeal, but it will be rejected unless you can prove the camera was not functioning properly or that you were not driving that car.

If you live in France, you have no choice but to pay the fine, because of a special agreement between our two countries. If you live in any other country, it’s ethical to pay. But if you don’t, there is not much Italy can do. Some car rental agencies might have you sign a form to get permission to charge your credit card in case of fines.

UPDATE: Some one pointed out that first, the car rental agency sends you a notification it has charged you for giving your details to the police (or whomever sends the fine) and then you get the fine separately from the authorities and up to a year later. (Thank you Lynn!)

Not paying a fine is not a crime in Italy. It’s an administrative infraction, so you won’t be jailed next time you set foot in Italy again… The car rental agency might initiate a debt collection procedure against you.

The ZTL in Pisa

I have already written something about the ZTLs in Pisa a few weeks ago. Here is the official map of the access points of the ZTL in the city. And here is a google map I created – you have to watch out for the cameras in Via Roma and Via Mazzini.

Some people believe they are a scam for tourists, but they’re not. They support their thesis with the argument that the city council even has English and German speaking clerks helping people pay ZTL fines. That is a service meant to help people who were distracted or didn’t do their homework and entered one of these areas.

Italians get fined too. But not, as some believe, because ZTLs are so difficult to identify that not even Italians can see them, but because when you navigate an unknown city, you get distracted, whatever your nationality. So the first thing to do is to learn to identify the ZTLs.

SeeZTLs accesses in Pisa on a larger map.

Tired of reading about this, I asked for numbers. It is true that 70% of the fines go to tourists, the remaining 30% to Italians, 40% of which are not from the city.

90% of the fines given to tourists happen near the Leaning Tower in Via Roma. Some might say that then this is the proof that the ZTL is not clearly marked, and it’s tricky.

This is the access where 90% of the tourists get fined:

Should you still be wondering how can you possibly know that this is the access of a ZTL…

To avoid this, you need to turn in Via Salvi, the street that you can see on the left, before the pedestrian crossing. If you end up in Via Santa Maria, you are in the ZTL.

The remaining 10% of the fines are received by tourists trespassing the ZTL access in Via Giuseppe Mazzini, a street that veers off the Lungarno.

Again, it is pretty obvious that this is where the ZTL starts:

As I mentioned in the other post about parking in Pisa, this access can be a bit confusing, because you only see the ZTL cameras once you have already turned into Via Mazzini, and backing up into the Lungarno is not an option. However, if you pay attention to the signs on the Lungarno, you will see that you will have passed signs indicating that you must go straight.

These two accesses together make up for 100% of the ZTL violations by foreign drivers. Learn to recognize them and you will be fine.

You will be fine if you drive along the Lungarni (these roads that run along the river banks) without taking ANY side roads. Stay on the Lungarni, or outside the city walls.

Italians, on the other hand, are more likely to be fined on the Lungarni in the summer. The ZTL on the Lungarno is only active in the summer after 9pm when the locales on the river are open and thriving. There are usually traffic policemen too, so as to reduce the number of confused drivers, and flashing signs say “varco attivo” (active cameras). When the sign is like this “varco non attivo” (inactive cameras), it means you can drive there.

I had a GPS system: it’s not possible that I drove through a ZTL

GPS Navigation Systems are totally unreliable when it comes to identifying ZTLs. First of all, the software is often not up to date with the change in traffic in the cities. Second, they can be used by residents and taxis too, and are programmed to show the easiest way to get from point A to point B, independently of whether such points are included in a ZTL or not.

Do not rely on GPS systems to avoid ZTLs: it’s proven that they do not work at all.

I have booked accommodation located within a ZTL: what should I do then?

Write to the reception and make sure that you can drive to your hotel. If not, ask them where you can park your car nearby. Most hotels in limited traffic zones will have special agreements with the local traffic police offices to allow their guests to safely reach the hotel. If this is the case, make sure you let them know your plate number as soon as possible so that they can file it with the dedicated offices to get you a special permit to drive in the ZTL. The cameras will still take pictures of your car but you will not be fined because the system will know that you had a permit.

Be aware that having permission to drive through a ZTL to reach your accommodation does not give you the right to drive through all the ZTLs in the city. If you are staying in a hotel near Via Mazzini for example, you will still be fined if you try to enter the ZTL near the Leaning Tower. Pisa is divided into four distinct ZTL areas, each requiring a different permit. The permits are only valid insofar as they allow you to get to your accommodation and back to the free driving zone.

Did I forget anything?

If you have a question about ZTLs in Pisa or in general which is not answered here, please leave a comment and I will try to find an answer! Thanks!

Here are some of the things that caught my attention the most!

• From October 7 to May 31, every Friday, Saturday and Sunday at 11am a low cost tour of the monuments of Piazza dei Miracoli other than the Leaning Tower (8 euros). The visit includes admission to the Cathedral and the Baptistery. From  October 6 to December 15, every Thursday, visitors to the Museum of San Matteo (Piazza San Matteo in Soarta, Pisa)
  will have the opportunity to join in a free tour inclusive of a visit to Simone Martini’s Polyptych.
• From October 8 to  December 31, every Saturday at 10.30 am a tour of the city dedicated to the places where Galileo Galilei lived. More on the Galilean Tour.
• From October 9 to February 12, every second Sunday, at 6pm, a guided tour of Palazzo Blu and the Permanent Art Collection.
• Until November 20, From Corot to Renoir, an exhibit at Museo della Grafica which offers a glimpse of the great 19th-century French engraving season between Romanticism and Impressionism, with papers from both collection Timpanaro and from a private collection.
• Until the end of June 2012, every second Sunday of each month, an organ concert is held in the Church of Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri (admission is free).
• From October 15 to January 29, Palazzo Blu will host an extraordinary exhibition of  masterpieces by Pablo Picasso.

Soon will be available a booklet called P.I.S.A. (Percorsi – Itinerari -  Sapori – Arte) with all the events of the fall and the winter in Pisa. The website related to this initiative is already online: www.pisacittapalcoscenico.it

If you plan on visiting Pisa over the next few months and you are still looking for accommodation, take a look at our vacation rental near the Leaning Tower to see if this is what you are looking for!

Where to park in Pisa

The first thing to remember is that most parking spots in Pisa are pay and display parking spots. Pay parking is marked by blue lines; white lines are for free parking spaces and yellow lines are for reserved parking spaces (incuding parking spaces for the disabled).

Parking is generally unsupervised, even in the private parking lots.

If you park in one of the pay parking spots along the road, you need to go to the nearest parking meter and pre-pay for the parking, estimating the amount of time you will need to leave your car there. Most of the automatic machines only work with coins, so remember to keep some change in the car. They are usually located under white and blue and white and black signs with the symbol of a parking meter and the cost per hour of stay which varies from 60 cents to 2.50 euros per hour, depending on the zone. There is a minimum amount you must pay (usually 60 cents or 30 mins – whichever is higher) depending on the zone. Of course, the closer you are to the tourist areas, the more expensive parking will be. You need to insert coins and you will see on a small display the amount of time you are allowed to stay. When you are done, you need to push the green button and the machine will print a ticket that you need to leave clearly on display inside your car on the dash.

Another option is to go to one of the enclosed parking lots: the two largest ones are on Via Cameo (Parcheggio di Piazza dei Miracoli), just a few steps away from the Leaning Tower, and just around the corner from that, by the Pam Supermarket (turn left at the roundabout at the end of Via Cameo). There you need to obtain a ticket when you go in, but you only pay when you are ready to leave the parking lot. There are actual parking attendants. A tip: the entrance to the Parcheggio di Piazza dei Miracoli can be tricky because there are two identical entrances, but one is for the university cafeteria. I see tourists stuck there trying to reverse all the time. The entrance to the parking lot is the one on the left.

If you plan on spending the day and want to save on parking, there is a private parking lot behind the Agip Gas Station in Via Bonanno, opposite the former Emergency Room. They apply a daily fee which is much lower than hourly parking rates. Also, in the same area, the parking spaces in Via Padre Bruno Fedi and in the Via Lucchese area are free after 2pm.

The cheapest option of course is free parking, which is available in the two park and ride parking lots called Parcheggio Via Pietrasantina (ideal if you come from the Autostrada and exit at Pisa Nord – there is a Tamoil gas station at the entrance of the parking lot that you can use as a reference point), and Parcheggio del Brennero (ideal if you arrive via Lucca).  The former is only a 10 minute walk to the Leaning Tower, and the city bus line LAM Rossa stops there every 10 to 15 minutes so it’s very convenient. The latter is a bit farther away, but it is served by the city bus Navetta E, which will take you right downtown to Piazza Santa Caterina or Via Santa Maria. Something to remember: Parcheggio del Brennero is where the city market is held, so it is taken up by the market stalls on Wednesday and Saturday morning.

Here is a Google map with some of the most accessible parking areas in Pisa.

A word of caution: if you are in an area with white parking spots (except in the two large parking lots that I have just mentioned), you are probably where you should not be… they are usually only for residents and therefore in areas restricted to non-residential traffic.

ZTL – Zone a Traffico Limitato… or Limited Traffic Zones

This is another very common topic in forums, especially those which deal with Pisa and Florence.

ZTLs are a way to reduce the pressure of non residential traffic in highly touristic destinations. They are also a way to guarantee that some areas stay exclusively pedestrian, and that traffic does not damage the oldest parts of the cities more than is strictly necessary.

Some people believe they are a scam for tourists, but believe me: they’re not. They support their thesis with the argument that the city council even has English and German speaking clerks helping people pay ZTL fines. This is such a stupid argument… it’s a service that is meant to help people who were distracted or didn’t do their homework and entered one of these areas.

Italians get fined too. But not, as some believe, because ZTLs are so difficult to identify that not even Italians can see them, but because when you navigate an unknown city, you get distracted, whatever your nationality. Any car, Italian or foreign, that enters a ZTL without a valid permit for that ZTL will be fined. And it is expensive. So the first thing to do is to learn to identify the ZTLs. They are all clearly marked with (very confusing) signs and most of them will also have cameras on big poles and well marked entry lanes…

What I always recommend is that you learn about Italian road signs before getting behind the wheel on an Italian road.

In the photo above, I have added the standard sign you find before entering a ZTL, the ZTL entrance to the Santa Maria Quarter, and a third sign that might be confusing. The rightmost sign is found at the entrance of the Lungarno for those who come from the airport. They will also see cameras. The ZTL on the Lungarno is only active in the summer after 9pm when the locales on the river are open and thriving. There are usually traffic policemen too, so as to reduce the number of confused drivers, and the sign says “varco attivo” (active cameras). When the sign is like this “varco non attivo” (inactive cameras), it means you can drive there.

In Pisa, you will be fine if you drive along the Lungarni (the roads that run along the river banks) without taking ANY side roads. Stay on the Lungarni, or outside the city walls. I am not sure where people get fined the most in Pisa, but I am ready to bet it is in Via Mazzini, which is a relatively big road off the Lungarno where buses are allowed to drive, but not cars. Stay on the Lungarno and outside the city walls and you will be fine.

Here is the ZTL entrance to Via Mazzini:

It can be a bit confusing, because you only see it once you have already turned into Via Mazzini, and backing up into the Lungarno is not an option.

However, if you pay attention to the signs on the Lungarno, you will see that you will have passed signs indicating that you must go straight.

Here is a map of the ZTL access points in the city and here you can read more on ZTLs in Italy and Pisa.

Where to park in Siena

The same general rules apply in Siena. There are several main areas where you can park at the street level: near the city gate Porta Camollia, near the city gate Porta Romana, near the city gate Porta Laterina, by the Soccer Stadium and the Fortress, and by Fontebranda.

We always recommend parking at the Soccer Stadium-Fortress area, but keep in mind that on Wednesdays it is taken up by the weekly market.

There are several other underground parking lots such as Parcheggio Il Campo and Parcheggio il Duomo, and also the parking lot at the train station.

When I walk home from work in Pisa, I often make a point to walk by the beautiful mural by Keith Haring, Tuttomondo. It was the artist’s last public work of art, painted in 1989 before his premature death. Not many people know about this large mural, but my fascination with this interesting wall-painting dates back to my first years in Pisa as a student. I love the colours, the richness of the composition, and I always notice some new characters that I hadn’t noticed before.

(Photo by juanita.laguna)

Other than these few observations, don’t expect “an educated comment” here: I am in no way qualified for that and I get quite bored with the average art expert’s blabbering. In my ignorance of the matter, I simply like works of art which have something to say to me… and, to me, Tuttomondo has always been the symbol of a welcoming and lively city where I have spent the last 17 years and which has always struck me as being so very different from the only other “art mecca” I was familiar with for having grown up in the area: Siena.

There are three main reasons why I love Tuttomondo.

First of all, I have always thought that Keith Haring’s work was perfectly in line with the cultural atmosphere of the city, which has always been very “popular” in a way. Street art in Pisa is a blessing and a curse. Being a university city with over 30,000 students and a very lively cultural life, there is a vast population of street artists. Some of them are more harmful than artistic, others though, paint beautiful things. The city has always tried to encourage the “controlled” expression of street art by providing authorized spaces for graffiti and murals. Recently, during the renovations of the Logge de’ Banchi in Corso Italia, the City enclosed the building with white boards and asked street artists and students to decorate them. For a couple of years, the area was an open street art gallery, which received mixed comments. Folk art is like that… you either love it or hate it. And recently, street artists have been ask to decorate the new “Casa Sperimentale”, a brand new student residency built in line with the most recent proposals of eco-compatible and bio-compatible architecture.

Secondly, I like the fact that the inspiration for the mural came from a fortuitous meeting between Keith Haring and a student of the Univeristy of Pisa. The University is the real moving force of the city. For someone like me who has spent the last 10 years trying to “form the young minds” at this university, it is amazing to see that some of the work we do here can bring such great gifts to the city.

(Photo by buxx)

Last but not least, I love the message. Tuttomondo was painted in a week without preparatory sketches to represent the good and bad of human coexistence.  The main theme is harmony and peace in the world, but next to the positive figures such as a mother with a baby, two men supporting a dolphin and dancing figures symbolizing the vitality of humanity, there are some more “troubled” figures, such as a scissor man cutting a snake that has already eaten a man’s head or a man wolf with a knife, to symbolize the fact that mankind can be dark and dangerous, but we can fight the evil that is in society to reach harmony, the same harmony that strikes me when I look at the way all the figures fit into place on the wall.

Tuttomondo is only few steps away from the central train station, in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, on the side of the old convent of St. Antonio.

(Photo by MagnusW)

If you want to take some time to admire it and see if you can figure out the meaning of all the characters, you can sit at one of the tables of the Keith Café, opposite the mural. At lunch time they offer free wi-fi and delicious food. In the evening, they serve a great aperitivo and they often host parties and interesting events.

More on Tuttomondo is available here:

• The Mural of Keith Haring: Tuttomondo
• Keith Haring twenty years later
• In Pisa, Keith Haring’s Last Great Work Is Fading Fast

Italy Blogging Roundtable

This is the third post in a monthly series called The Italy Blogging Roundtable. Here you can find the posts of the other bloggers who participate in the roundtable and who, like me, talk about “a work of art in Italy“:

Alexandra (Arttrav) – Is it possible for an art historian to have one favourite work of art?

Jessica (Italylogue) – My Favorite Work of Art in Italy

Melanie (Italofile) -Five Fabulous Art Works in Rome You May Have Missed

Rebecca (Brigolante) – liding Doors, What-ifs, and the Cross of San Damiano

(Photo by Frankekko)

(Photo by Frankekko)

The party starts in the late afternoon when all the students and the people from Pisa start to fill the streets and the squares to see the market stalls and to gather for dinner with their friends. The restaurants, bars and squares of the center are crowded; street musicians play on the bridges; churches and monuments are open even after dark and cards are distributed in the street so that people can vote for the best decoration. Palazzo Blu usually wins, and again this year they have prepared stunning biancheria in the shape of many fans.

(Photo by amanda_was_here)

(Photo by Giuseppe Luigi di Pace)

(Photo by David J. Marshall)

The lampposts of the Lungarno have been decorated with flag shaped biancheria, to be lit by red, green and white candles to celebrate 150th anniversary of Italy.

When the sun goes down, the center of Pisa takes on a really magical atmosphere. You can hear people laughing, the noisy generators of the kiosks selling porchetta and brigidini, traditional sweets with anisette, and people playing in the streets.

(Photos by Francesco Collina)

At 11pm, the fireworks start.

(Photo by Pablo Tenorio)

(Photo by Zuorio)

Up until a few years ago, they were launched from the cittadella medicea and from its tower. Over the last couple of years though, given that you could only see them from one section of the Lungarno and it was always incredibly crowded, they have started shooting the fireworks from the two ends of the Lungarno so that the show is really impressive and it can be enjoyed from everywhere along the Lungarno. This year they will be shot from four boats placed on four good spots on the river Arno. It will be really spectacular.

(Photo by androiGo)

After the fireworks, many people leave the city. Most people, though, remain in the city until dawn, moving from the Lungarno towards the surrounding squares to join in the street parties and in the parties organized by bars and pubs. In many squares there are bands playing live music.

(Photo by zufus)

(Photo by John Soqquadro)

My favourite spot to see the fireworks and spend the night is Argini e Margini, a bar on the river bank. Up until last year not many people knew how cool it was to see the fireworks from the river, but I expect this year to be very crowded.

Unlike many other festivals in famous cities in Tuscany, La Luminara is not very famous, even though it would certainly deserve to be. Tonight a UNESCO ambassador will be a guest of the city council, who have applied so that the festival can be recognized as UNESCO Wold Heritage Event.

The celebrations of La Luminara are just one of the many events organized in June in Pisa. Giugno Pisano is a full month of celebrations, concerts, exhibits and more. Tomorrow, June 17 and the actual Patron Saint’s Day, the  city will celebrate again with a historical regatta on the river Arno. This year it will be at night for the first time, with more candle light displays along the lungarno.

If you are planning to visit Pisa next year, remember to plan your trip around this events, because they really deserve it.

“The key date is June 16, with the Luminara di San Ranieri: over 100,000 candles are carefully placed in smooth, transparent glasses and hung on white wooden frames arranged to emphasize the outlines of the buildings, bridges, churches and towers that overlook the Lungarni. This year, a solemn edition will close the jubilee year of the patron saint of Pisa, in the 850th anniversary of his death.

Then, on the night of Saturday June 25, the traditional Gioco del Ponte, the historical event divided into two separate, but equally significant, moments: the Historical Procession on the Lungarni, with over 700 characters, and the “battle” staged on the Ponte di Mezzo. Here, the teams from the city’s two rival districts (Tramontana and Mezzogiorno) put their strength to the test by pushing a heavy cart in opposite directions in a heated moment  of fierce competition.

But the Giugno Pisano has a full thirty days of events to offer, with three protagonists: the city, its river and the sea.”

Events in the center of Pisa

The lights of the night in the churches of Pisa

Every Wednesday, from 9 to 11 pm, four of the most beautiful churches of the city will be open at night: Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri, San Sisto, San Pietro in Vinculis and Santa Cristina.

Celebrating the patron saint: Saint Ranieri

On the night of June 16, the Luminara along the river Arno, and the day after, June 17, the Palio di San Ranieri, (the Historical Regatta of San Ranieri): four boats, each representing one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods — Santa Maria, San Francesco, San Martino and Sant’Antonio — go head-to-head on the waters of the river Arno in a boat race, a legacy of the tradition of the Maritime Republic of Pisa.

(Photos of Frankekko)

Women of Italy

Palazzo Blu hosts the exhibition “Women of Italy. Half the Unity” untill June 26 (free admission). The exhibition, set up for the 150th anniversary of the Unification of Italy, tells the story of the country as seen through the eyes and vicissitudes of its most representative women. Open until 10 pm (Saturday and Sunday until 11 pm).

Piazza dei Miracoli

From June 17, night opening of the Leaning Tower and the Monumental Cemetery in the Piazza dei Miracoli.

(Photo by Tomcraft2xlc)

In the afternoon of Saturday, June 4, 11 and 18, there will be a guided tour of the Piazza entitled “Art and History of a great Maritime Republic”.  Further information: Tel. 050 822207, www.pisaguide.com

Guided Tours

An opportunity to visit Pisa on foot:

• Walking in Pisa (Monday, Thursday and Saturday, 10.45 am).
• The tour of Pisa by night on Friday evening. (Tel. +39 320 9154975)
• The Galilean Tour, every Saturday morning, an exciting walk around Galileo Galilei’s hometown will illustrate the human story and great discoveries of the founder of modern science. (Tel. +39 050 822207)
• Water paths: a journey amid sources and springs. Three itineraries, three days to walk along the water paths from the mountains to the city. (Tel. +39 320 9154975),

The flavours of Giugno Pisano

A chance to discover recipes and typical products of the true Pisan cuisine, thanks to a special menu “Giugno Pisano”, available from Monday to Thursday in 14 restaurants in Pisa and surroundings.

The Arno River

The river Arno is the second protagonist of the Giugno Pisano with Argini e Margini, a restaurant and wine bar along the river bank, with its menu of drinks and good music.  (My favourite place in Pisa! See our evenings at Argini e Margini)

Cruises on the Arno offer visitors an unusual view of Pisa (June 2, 5, 10, 19 and 29 at 9.30 pm). For information +39 050 530101 – visitesr@tin.it

The Tyrrhenian Sea

Starting from June 2 (every Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 8 pm), the bathing establishments of Marina di Pisa, Tirrenia and Calambrone will offer the most agreeable, amusing and intriguing entertainment with a series of evenings entitled Il mare nel bicchiere (The sea in a glass).

(Photo by domestictimes)

The Giugno Pisano 2011 will be a special month in the province of Pisa too.

• From June 3 (every Wednesday) the thermal baths Casciana Terme will be open at night
• Saturday, June 4, urban trekking  “Gust’arte” in Pontedera.
• Saturday, June 11, opening of the Museum of  the Arts and Crafts of Tuscany in Castelnuovo Val di Cecina.
• Saturday, June 18, a concert in the beautiful monumental Certosa of Calci.
• Saturday, June 18, the Notte Bianca in Pontedera.
• Saturday, June 25, the Notte Rossa in Volterra

You might also like to read…

• Low cost wine tours near Pisa
• Some summer events in Pisa
• Pisa awaits il Gioco del Ponte
• Pisa is getting ready
• I love Pisa in June

Today, I am going to very quickly present the different areas that people can visit in northern Tuscany.

I should repeat that of course, there are common features, but there are also very distinctive characteristics that make each one of these areas unique and clearly distinguishable from the other ones.

Here is a map of Tuscany with the main cities of the northern area of the region.

Here is some information about the main tourist areas. I already talked about Chianti, Val di Cecina, and Val di Cornia in my post on southern Tuscany, but, as they extend over the heart of the region, they obviously stretch into its northern part too.

Val d’Elsa

Val d’Elsa was also mentioned in my previous article, but there are many pretty towns that are in northern Tuscany so I thought it would be best to mention it again here. I am thinking of lovely Certaldo, Castelfiorentino and Gambassi Terme.

(Certaldo by Dottorpeni)

Val di Cecina

This is the Valdorcia of Northern Tuscany. An area that is known to few travelers to Tuscany, and yet it boasts spectacular landscapes, characterized by gentle rolling hills and small hamlets such as Montecastelli and Castelnuovo Val di Cecina. The beautiful Volterra is in this area, but farther south.

(Montecatini Val di Cecina by ObbiettivoPeperino)

Valdarno

A large diverse area along the river Arno. The best part is in my opinion in the Pisa area, with the beautiful countryside around the hilltop town of San Miniato. The town itself is very pretty, with a large Cathedral, an imposing seminary, and a nice town hall.

(San Miniato by Ezioman)

Mugello

Mugello is north of Florence, on the Apennines. It’s dotted by small towns and famous for the many medieval pievi, small parish churches in the countryside. The area is also famous for the main speedway in Italy: Autodromo del Mugello.

(Mugello, photo by Bosphoreion)

Florence

Of course Florence needs no introduction. Near Florence, Fiesole is a nice place too see. The rest of the surrounding area is mostly residential and industrial, so no point in venturing in the suburbs… unless you want to go shopping at Ikea!

(Florence, photo by Rosino)

Prato and Pistoia

The area is quite industrialized and densely populated, but the two cities are remarkable. They have beautiful city centers. Prato is famous for the textile industry, while Pistoia is famous for the greenhouses. It also has a popular zoo and not far from it, a popular destination is Collodi, the home town of Pinocchio’s author. Montecatini Terme is a famous spa town: the art nouveau spa center is very beautiful. The old village, Montecatini Alto is really cute too.

(Prato by Rob Meredith)

Valle del Serchio

The valley along the river Serchio north of Lucca. This is a very beautiful area, with small villages and larger towns along the river, small bridges, stone mills and many old paper factories. Interesting sites in this area include Barga, Borgo a Mozzano and the famous Devil’s Bridge, Bagni di Lucca and the nature reserve called Orrido di Botri.

(Barga by Bill Anderson)

Abetone

This is the second highest mountain in Tuscany and a very popular ski resort. It’s on the border with Emilia Romagna, in the province of Pistoia. It’s quite well-known in Italy and it is the perfect place to bring together a vacation on the snow and a holiday in Tuscany.

(Abetone by Lo.Tangelini)

Lucca

A beautiful city with the city center entirely enclosed within perfectly preserved city walls where people can bike, take a walk and relax. It is just beautiful in any season, but my favourite season in Lucca is the fall, when all the trees along the walls turn yellow. The area is also known for the beautiful ville lucchesi, splendid mansions in the countryside.

(Lucca by Dvdbramhall)

Garfagnana

The Garfagnana is the mountain area north of Lucca, with famous towns such as Castelnuovo di Garfagnana. It is home to a nature park called Parco dell’Orecchiella and it is famous for its chestnuts. There are many small hamlets immersed in the woods which have been abandoned and for this reason Garfagnana  is a walker’s paradise.

(Garfagnana by Flickrc)

Lunigiana

Lunigiana is the area along the river Magra. It is cut through the ancient Via Francigena and it is one of the lesser known areas of Tuscany, yet still a fascinating one. It’s on the Appennines on the border with Emilia Romagna and Liguria. It’s a land of old countryside churches and legends.

(Lunigiana by nigelfj)

Massa and Carrara

Massa and Carrara, famous for their marble and for the Apuan Alps. Two cities overlooking the coast of the Versilia. The cities are neat, and definitely off the beaten path. The marble caves are worth a visit: Michelangelo used it for his masterpieces and it’s famous throughout the world.

(Marble caves near Carrara, by Artnbarb)

Versilia

The Versilia is the most popular beach area in Tuscany, but it is also very interesting for its landscape. There are mountains right behind the coastline. The most popular towns are Viareggio, famous for its carnival, Pietrasanta, and Forte dei Marmi. They are very lively in the summer and many VIPs choose these destinations for their beach holidays.

(Versilia by Luigi9555)

Pisa

Pisa and its surroundings. The city of Pisa is mostly famous for the Leaning Tower, but it has much more than that to offer. The best time of the year to visit the city is June. Besides Piazza dei Miracoli the city boasts many interesting monuments. Just outside the city, the Chartreuse of Calci and the Abbey of San Piero a Grado are worth seeing. The area is rich in hot springs too.

(Basilica di San Piero a Grado, Pisa)

Livorno

Livorno is a large industrial city. The city center is not bad, and it has been recently restored so as to be more appealing to visitors. The American market area is neat. Just outside the city, the Monastery of Montenero is worth a visit. There are breathtaking views from the top of the hill. The coast south of the city is also impressive, with a rugged coastline and secluded coves.

(Livorno by swamp dragon)

Pisa is an excellent base in northern Tuscany because it’s an important  transportation hub. You do not need a car to visit the major sites. Of course if you want to venture up into the Garfagnana, Lunigiana or Val di Cecina area, then you will need a car, like in most rural areas of Tuscany. But there are plenty of places that you can reach from Pisa by public transportation and if you want to rent a car for the day, all you have to do is to go to the airport. Besides, the city is really underrated: if you dare venture away from the Leaning Tower, far from being a tourist trap, Pisa is a University city, with many lively locals, plenty of restaurants and many cultural events. I write about Pisa often here on the blog, because we work in the city so we spend weekdays there. Of course we also have a special place to recommend… Behind the Tower, our vacation rental near the Leaning Tower of Pisa! Check it out!

So here you go: if you are considering whether to spend some time in Pisa in March or April, this will hopefully help you make up your mind (and book your flight!).

Pisa and the celebrations for the Unification of Italy

This year, on March 17th to be exact, we will celebrate the 150th Anniversary of the Unification of Italy and it will actually be a national holiday. Celebrations will happen in most cities I’d imagine. Pisa celebrates the Unification of the country with an exhibition at Palazzo Blu called Donne d’Italia. La metà dell’unità. The exhibit, open from March 16th to June 26th, will be free of charge, and a fabulous idea I would like to add, because the role of women who made the country is not very well known (the link is to a post I wrote last year about the topic).

Two more exhibitions celebrate the Unification of Italy: one about the role of Pisa in the Unification process at the University Library - Palazzo della Sapienza in Piazza Dante – (“1859-1861 – Il contributo di Pisa all’unità d’Italia”) and one at the Museo della Grafica at Palazzo Lanfranchi on the Lungarno (“Luigi Torelli, Prefetto di Pisa dal 1862 al 1865″).

And last but not least, the Notte Bianca, Rossa e Verde (the white, red and green night), a “street party” by Ponte di Mezzo on March 16, from 9:30 pm to 3 am, with a midnight toast to our 150 year old country!

The Truffle Season!

On March 19 and 20, the ancient village of Cigoli, which we happened to discover only few weeks ago, celebrates its Tartufo Marzolino, a local variety of truffle with Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Marzolino di Cigoli. The Marzolino Truffle is also the protagonist of Voterra Gusto on the weekend of March 25-27.

Happy New Year!

That’s right! Few people know of the Capodanno Pisano, the Pisan New Year, but it’s a great event. From the 12th century until 1749, Pisa had its own calendar, different from the Gregorian calendar. March 25th, the day of the Annunciation – the Catholic celebration of the announcement by the angel Gabriel to Mary that she would become the mother of Jesus – was New Year’s Day.

The new year officially begins when a sunbeam strikes a marble egg placed in the Cathedral, above the beautiful pulpit sculpted by Giovanni Pisano. The sunbeam enters the beautiful church from a small round window located in the chapel of San Ranieri: a very ingenious solar clock!

This year the city has planned lots of events around the Capodanno Pisano. Many restaurants and bars will organize dinners to wait for the arrival of the “new year” (yes, on March 25th, it will be 2012 in Pisa!), music, celebrations and parties. On the 25th, there will be the usual parade in period costumes to the Cathedral. We went last year and it was fabulous!

March 25 will also be the official beginning of tourist season. Pisa and its province celebrate with a weekend rich in events: guided tours of Pisa, Volterra and Castelnuovo Val di Cecina; special offers at spas and wellness centers in Casciana and San Giuliano Terme; extended opening hours of churches in Pisa, Calci and Cascina and of museums (Fauglia, Peccioli, Montecatini Val di Cecina) and monuments (Brunelleschi’s “Rocca” in Vicopisano and Rocca Sillana in Pomarance); wine tasting in Pisa and Peccioli; urban trekking in Pontedera; the Chocolate Festival in San Miniato and Tirrenia; sport events at the hippodrome of San Rossore and Marina di Pisa; days dedicated to traditional recipes in restaurants; shopping tours in the leather district in Santa Croce; art exhibitions in Calcinaia; plays in Lari; fireworks on the Lungarni in Pisa and good music in the streets!

So, if you are thinking of visiting Pisa in March, that weekend is no doubt the best time of the month to do it. More on the Pisa Unica Terra website.

A weekend at the spas

During the Capodanno Pisano Weekend (March 25-27), the spas of the Pisa province will celebrate with “Terme Aperte” (literally “open spas”). Casciana Terme, Terme Villa Borri and Bagni di Pisa in San Giuliano Terme open the doors of their spas: free entry to their gardens, parks and hotel facilities. Moreover, reduced prices are offered to access the thermal pools and spa treatments, as well as on accommodation and on their beauty products. A unique opportunity to treat yourself to a special weekend of relaxation, art and culture.

Celebrating the blooms of the spring

From April 1st to the 3rd, lovers of flowers will find several interesting events in Pisa and its province. Pisa will become a garden in bloom with its festival Pisa in Fiore (Pisa in Bloom). And on April 2nd and 3rd the Convent of Nicosia in Calci opens the doors of its garden for the annual event dedicated to this beautiful flower Il Chiostro delle Camelie. Here is a related article on April flower-related events in Tuscany.