What is Tuscany like in January?

January is usually one of the coldest months of the year with February. However, there are usually a few days of winter sun, which are perfect for walks in the countryside or for visiting cities and towns!

Average temperatures range between 3°C and 10°C (37.4°F – 50°F) during the warmest hours of the day and between 0°C and 5°C (32°F – 41°F) at night. Occasionally, temperatures drop to -5°C – 0°C (23°-32°F) or below at night if we get a cold wave, like the one we have been experiencing for the past few days.

Days are still short: the sun goes down around 5pm. Trees are leafless (except for olive trees, cypres trees and some oaks) and so are vines.

Some restaurants and other tourism-related businesses might be closed after January 6th, because the second half of January is traditionlly a very slow time of the year. Of course this also means that you can get great deals, so if you decide to travel in winter, January might be a good time of the year to visit Tuscany without breaking the bank!

Once again, we would like to remind you to beware of the slippery icey roads after dark. Snow chains and winter tires are mandatory from November 1st on, so make sure your rental car is equipped if you decide to visit Tuscany in January.

Weather-related legends and popular beliefs

The coldest days of the month are usually the so-called “giorni della merla” (literally, the blackbird days), that is, January 29, 30 and 31. Snowfalls or cold waves are in fact quite common at the end of the month.

(Photo of our village under the snow by Alice Rossi)

The name of these three days comes from a legend.

The tale goes that a long time ago, January only had 28 days. Blackbirds were white then. They lived happily among the trees, and every winter they impatiently waited for the cold days to come to an end. One January, on the 28th day, a bold blackbird rejoiced and shouted to January, ” Lord, I don’t care about you anymore, winter is over!”. January was enraged by this disrespectful outburst and asked February to lend him three of its days and made them the harshest and coldest days of all! The blackbird scared and worried moved its family away from the trees to a stone chimney on the top of an old farmhouse. For three days of terrible ice and cold they hid in the chimney and when February 1st arrived with a warm sunshine, the blackbird and its family emerged no longer white, but black and sooty. This is why blackbirds are born black and February only has 28 days instead of 31!

This is not the only weather-related story as far as January is concerned, though. The first 12 days of the month are called the Calends. According to a popular belief going back to the Roman era and possibly earlier than that, you can predict what the weather will be like over the following months by looking at the weather of the first days of January. Each day corresponds to one month, so January 1st corresponds to January itself, January 2nd corresponds to February, January 3rd corresponds to March and so on. If the weather on that day is good, the weather in the corresponding month will be bad, and viceversa. I remember my great-grandmother used to mark these things down on her Frate Indovino calendar!

If you forget to keep track of the weather during the Calends, you can observe the weather on St. Paul’s Day (January 25th). There is another old saying which says “delle calende non mi curo, se a San Paolo non fa scuro“, that is, “I am not worried about the forecasts of the Calends, if the weather is good on St. Paul’s Day”. It means that if the weather is good on St. Paul’s Day, the year will be a good year.

(Photo of our village under the snow by Alice Rossi)

Another ancient tradition consists in placing 12 half walnut-shells filled with a pinch of salt on your window sill on the night between January 24th and 25th. Each shell corresponds to a month. The shell which, on the following morning, contains melted salt will indicate that the corresponding month will be dry and hot. The shells still containing salt will indicate humid, rainy months.

What is in season in January?

Not much I am afraid. If you like oranges and clementines, however, this is the best time of the year to find delicious citrus fruit, even though they are not produced in Tuscany.

As for vegetables, broccoli, cauliflowers, seakale beets, fennels, radicchio, spinach, artichokes and cardoons are all seasonal products. If you have a chance, make sure you try deep fried artichokes and cardoons or a cardoon pie (sformato di carducci).

The end of the Holidays

The first six days of the month are still festive: the Holidays officially end on January 6th, the Epiphany, which is a very important religious holiday in Italy. Traditionally, it was more “important” than Christmas Day itself. The characters of three Wise Kings were added to the Nativity Scene and presents were exchanged.

Stockings were hung by the fireplace and at night parents… no sorry… the Befana… would fill them with treats and small presents for the children. If they had been naughty, they would also get garlic and coal! I still remember the sugar coal that my mum used to place in my stocking…!

The beginning of Carnival

Soon after the Christmas holidays are over, the Carnival celebrations start. It depends on Easter of course: the earlier Easter Sunday falls, the earlier Carnival begins.
The towns and cities celebrating Carnival with pageant parades like Viareggio will start organizing events.

Bakeries and pastry shops will start selling the traditional Carnival sweets such as cenci (or crogetti as we call them in our area), fritters, and bomboloni! Watch out for “naughty kids” celebrating because you could find yourselves covered in spray foam and confetti!

What is Tuscany like in December?

December is one of my favourite months of the year. It is essentially a festive month, with the holidays, the markets, the decorations, the delicious Christmas desserts!

It marks the passage from fall to winter, and can be either relatively mild or very cold. Average temperatures range between 7°C and 13°C (44°F – 55°F) during the warmest hours of the day and between 2°C and 4°C (35°F – 39°F) at night. Occasionally, temperatures drop to 0°C (32°F) or below at night if we get a cold wave, which is not a rare event in December.

(Photo by fuyunam)

December is usually not the rainiest or coldest month of the winter, but occasional bad weather is to be expected. Snowfalls are rare, and snow rarely sticks for more than a day or two. Ice is much more common and people planning on driving should be very careful in the early morning and in the evening.

Last year (2010), we had a very very cold December, with 10 days of temperatures below 0°C (32°F) and several snowfalls, but in general, you should not expect a white Christmas. In fact, most Christmas days I can remember were sunny and mild.

Something to keep in mind if you are planning on visiting Tuscany in December is that days are very short: the sun doesn’t rise until 7:30 am and by 4:30 pm it is already dark. So if you are planning a daytrip you should make sure to leave indoor visits for the late afternoon.

You will need to dress warmly and to wear waterproof footwear as well as a warm scarf at least, especially if you come from a place where winters are mild. If you come from a very cold country you will probably find the weather very pleasant.

(Photo by TomStardust)

Everywhere it will be too cold to eat or sit outside, so when you choose your accommodation, make sure to opt for a place that is cosy and warm indoors rather than for a place which has nice outdoor spaces, because they will be wasted.

A very important thing to be aware of is that Italian homes are generally colder than North European or North American homes. Temperatures in the houses rarely go above 18°C – 20°C (64°F – 68°F; by law, every year a maximum temperature is allowed so as to reduce pollution and conserve energy). Do not expect a temperature at your accommodation which will allow you to go barefoot and short-sleeved in the house: you will have to dress warmly indoors as well as outdoors (please check our post about Hot and cold…life without a/c and heated floors).

In terms of landscapes, in December most trees will have lost their leaves. Olive trees, some types of oaks and cypress trees of course will still be green. Actually, with the cold, olive trees turn to silver, which is so pretty! If the olive harvest is particularly good, some people might still be picking olives.

Vineyards will be bare, and vines will have been pruned already, so not much to see there. But you can still visit wineries and enjoy the first vino novello of the season!

(Photo by evan.chakroff)

If you are “lucky” enough to be in Tuscany during a snow fall, you will have the chance to see the region in a very unusual way!

(Photo by silviabe)

(Photo by pietromoleti)

It is not infrequent to see the countryside covered in a white layer of frost in the morning.

(Photo by Carlo Micheloni)

Once again, we would like to remind you to beware of the slippery icey roads after dark. Snow chains and winter tires are mandatory from November 1st on, so make sure your rental car is equipped.

What is in season in December?

In terms of fruit, December is a very poor month. You will find oranges, grapefruits, kiwis, apples and pears, which, however, are not typically produced in Tuscany.

As for vegetables, broccoli, cauliflower, artichokes, cardoons, turnip tops, fennel, leeks, radicchio, and spinach are in season.

You might still be able to find chestnuts and mushrooms if the season has been good.

Persimmons will also be ready and hanging from their pretty leafless trees.

(Photo by blackit)

Don’t be surprised if you find white grapes in the supermarket: it’s traditional to have grapes and nuts at Christmas for good luck! Actually the tradition would require for everybody to have 7 different types of fruit on Christmas day, which is always a challenge, especially after an enormous meal!

The hunting season is in full swing so restaurant menus will be rich in game meat dishes, especially wild boar and pheasant.

The holidays

December is a festive month. The first holiday of the month is on December 8th: we celebrate the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Schools are closed, and if the holiday falls on a Tuesday or on a Friday, there might be a long weekend for everybody.

December 8th traditionally marks the time when people start decorating the house for the Christmas holidays and the opening of most Christmas markets!

(Photo by Babj)

Some Christmas markets you might not want to miss:

• Natale alle Logge in Montepulciano
• Mercatino di Natale in Pisa
• Mercatini di Natale in Siena
• Florence Noel, the German Christmas Market and the traditional Fierucola di Natale in Florence

In December, the cities and their stores will be decorated with Christmas trees and other ornaments. They are very beautiful after dark! Don’t expect the rich North American decorations, though: they are more modest but still magical!

(Photo by andangio)

Christmas in Tuscany is the most popular holiday of the year and is traditionally spent with family. We even have a saying: “Natale con i tuoi, Pasqua con chi vuoi”, meaning spend Christmas with your family, Easter with whomever you want.

A common misconception is that, on Christmas Day and St. Stephen’s Day, restaurants will be closed. Museums, stores, and most attractions will be, but many families will choose to go to a restaurant so most of them, at least the least touristy ones, will be open and busy. If you plan on spending Christmas in Tuscany and having your big Christmas lunch at the restaurant, make sure you book ahead of time.

Depending on the area where you choose to be, restaurants might organize a big dinner on Dec. 24th and be closed for lunch on Christmas day. It depends on what is traditional in the area.

(Photo by davide – diploD)

In our area, we celebrate Christmas at lunchtime on the 25th with a huge home-made meal, usually made of 8 or more courses! You can read about Christmas in my family here: Christmas is almost here!

Something you should absolutely not miss are the traditional Christmas sweets, especially those from the Siena area: ricciarelli, cavallucci, panforte and panpepato. They are to die for!!!

If you happen to be in Tuscany around Christmas time, you should not miss the nativity scenes. There are some live re-enactments which are really beautiful.

For a long time, the Nativity Scene, called Presepe, was the only decoration in Italian homes. Now it is not so common anymore because it takes up some space, but every home will probably at least have a small one. You can read about presepe here: It’s Not Christmas Without a “Presepe”.

(Photo by Pteropus)

The last holiday of December is of course New Year’s Eve, or as we call it here “l’ultimo dell’anno“. Traditionally, New Year’s Eve is either spent at home with friends and family gathered around the table for the “cenone” (literally big dinner) or celebrating in a square, where concerts and other events are organized in every major city and town.

Every restaurant will organize a “cenone”, and you need to book well ahead of time. The prices are usually higher than normal, but the meal is made up of many more courses than usual. You will certainly be served cotechino or zampone and lentils, which is the traditional dish to bring good luck for the new year!

A special Advent Calendar

Last year I had fun creating this very special Tuscan Advent Calendar! It’s just for fun… and it has a nice surprise at the end! But hey! Don’t rush to open the last “window” though! Have fun!

Spending Christmas and the New Year in Tuscany

Every year we post some special offers for Christmas and the New Year in Tuscany. Check our vacation rentals websites for further information: links are in the side bar! Thanks!

(Photo by TomStardust)

And if you want to know more about the holidays in Tuscany, you might find these pages interesting:

• Christmas in Tuscany
• New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day in Tuscany

What is Tuscany like in November?

November is usually the first real month of fall weather. While up until the last 10 days of October the temperatures usually remain very pleasant (18-23°C, 64-73°F), November is characterized by a greater variability both in weather conditions and in the range in temperatures. During the warmest hours of the day, temperatures are normally between 16°C (60°F)  and 10°C (50°F), but at night temperatures go down to 6°C (42°F) or less.

November is usually the rainiest month. You can either expect cold and dry weather, with some really windy days, or not so cold but rainy days, especially in Northern Tuscany.

It will probably be too cold to eat outside even at lunch time. As a matter of fact, the bars and restaurants which still have outdoor tables in November will be very few. Those who do, will probably have gazebos and heaters on.

If it doesn’t rain much, it will still be pleasant to walk around or to explore the countryside. And if it does, here are some ideas on things to do in Tuscany when it rains.

If you plan on visiting Tuscany in November, you will need to dress warmly enough. At the beginning of the month a wind-breaker might be suitable, but by the end of the month you will need a proper winter jacket. Personally, I don’t mind the cold weather at all, and I prefer wearing woolen coats rather than coats made of synthetic materials or quilted jackets. However, you will see that most Italians will already be wearing their full winter clothes (heavy jackets, jumpers, scarves and boots) at the beginning of the month. If you come from a cold country, very warm clothes might feel excessive, but if you come from a warm country, you will need sweaters or at least to dress in layers. Closed and possibly waterproof footwear is a must.

The colors in November are amazing! The fields go back to green, the woods turn into a mixture of yellow, brown and dark green, the olive groves are silvery. As I mentioned in my “Tuscany in October” post, don’t expect North American foliage, but  here you can see how pretty the fall in Tuscany can be. Keep in mind that most trees which lose their leaves will have no leaves at all by mid November.

What is in season in November?

November is a very generous month in terms of food. The first good oranges of the season arrive on our tables. Oranges are not typically produced in Tuscany, but in Southern Italy. However they are readily available in any food store and if you are in Italy at this time of the year you have to try some!

Persimmons are ready and it is almost a pity to pick them from their leafless trees! They are so pretty!

(Photo by Paolo 55)

Chestnuts are prominent in our diet in November. They are already available at the end of October, but November is really their month. You can buy them roasted (caldarroste) from the street vendors in the cities or roast them yourselves on slow-burning embers in the fireplace or on a wood-burning stove on special perforated pans. Chestnut flour also becomes available and we use it to make castagnaccio (a type of chestnut cake) or sweet polenta.

(Photo by Elisa Poli)

Walnuts are also finally ready!

As for vegetables, in November you can get beets, artichokes and thistles, broccoli, cauliflowers, cabbage, fennel, leeks, radicchio, spinach, and pumpkins.

If the weather has been right, porcini mushrooms and truffles are also available.

November 1 marks the opening of the wild boar hunting season, so plenty of wild boar dishes will be available in restaurant menus. You won’t be able to buy the meat at the butcher though, unless you place an order, and it might still be difficult. Besides, cooking game meat is not easy if you don’t know how, so it’s always best to have some nicely done cinghiale at a local trattoria!

Make sure to wear bright colors if you go for a walk in the countryside as it is very dangerous when the hunt is on.

The olive harvest

November is traditionally the month of the olive harvest, even though some producers start picking in October. My family generally starts on November 1st or 2nd, right after celebrating All Saints’ Day.

Olive oil is one of the main products of Tuscany. In the area where my village is located, it has traditionally been the main product, so much so that the people from the village used to be called “buchi unti” (literally, greasy holes) by the people from the neighbouring villages. Now, the nickname sounds funny and not very flattering, but it reminds of a time when there were 7 olive presses in the village and most people used to work there in November and December. They would wear rubber boots on the slippery floor of the presses and when they had to get down on their knees to clean the pipes or the floor at the end of the day, the soles of their boots used to leave greasy stains on their buttocks, hence the nickname!

Experiencing the olive harvest in Tuscany and visiting the olive presses can be an unforgettable experience and certainly a great way to discover an important side of the local culture and tradition.

There are many festivals dedicated to olive oil in the region. My village celebrates its heritage with a yearly festival called “Festa del Buco Unto“. This year it’s going to be on November 12 and 13. You can taste the new olive oil and a lot of traditional food in the square, visit the open cellars and dance in the streets!

Of course there is no better way to honor the freshly pressed olive oil but to prepare some great bruschette! Try toasting bread in the fireplace: nothing can beat that!

Why I love “November smells”

What I love the most in November are the smells. First of all, the smell of the wet countryside in the morning. Even when it doesn’t rain, the mists and the dew make the countryside smell amazing. Even in the city you can smell the autumn has arrived.

(Photo by Giuseppe Toscano)

Second, I love the smell of burning firewood. You can see the smoke coming out of most chimneys and to me that brings back memories of evenings spent by the fireplace with my grand-parents, waiting for chestnuts to be well roasted, or for a large pot of polenta to be ready or slices of bread to be toasted and ready for the new olive oil.

Third, the smell of fresh mushrooms still covered in dirt. If I close my eyes I can see my mum’s counter covered in sheets of newspaper and a layer of dirty porcini mushrooms waiting to be cleaned and made in a nice soup or pasta sauce!

Fourth, the smell coming off the large caldarroste (roast chestnuts) braziers on the side of the street in the cities. If you happen to be in Pisa, Florence or Siena in November you will see people selling caldarroste on the side of the street out of enormous braziers. It’s also a nice excuse to warm up by the fire if it’s very cold!

Fifth, the smell coming out of the olive presses. If you happen to be in the area in November, make sure to visit one.

The first holidays of the season

We don’t have anything similar to Thanksgiving, but we celebrate Ognissanti or simply I Santi (All Saints’ Day) on November 1st and I morti (All Souls’ Day) on November 2nd. Only the former is an actual holiday, so be aware that most shops will be closed and public transportation will follow the holiday schedule.

All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day are celebrated with the family. Ognissanti is a festive day, on which people go to mass and then have lunch together. In Tuscany we celebrate Ognissanti with two typical desserts: Schiaccia dei Santi (elsewhere schiacciata, meaning focaccia) and Pane dei Santi (meaning All Saints’ bread).  Make sure to try them! Schiaccia dei Santi is a type of focaccia and it contains raisins, figs and walnuts. Pane dei Santi is exactly the same, but instead of being crispy and thin, the same ingredients are added to bread dough. Castagnaccio, a delicious cake made with chestnut flour, is often prepared in this time of the year.

On All Souls’ Day, I Morti, people go to the cemetery and pay their respects to their beloved departed ones. Most people who have moved away from the village return for the occasion and bring flowers. The traditional flower for the occasion are chrysanthemums. They symbolize mourning in our culture, and are always associated with cemeteries and graveyards (so don’t give them as a present!). Il Giorno dei Morti is somehow a sad day, but also a day in which you meet people you don’t often see and get a chance to think about the people who are not here anymore.

(Photo by thunderspeech)

November 30 is also a holiday in Tuscany (but not the rest of Italy): Festa della Toscana. However, only schools and public offices will be closed. Most attractions will keep their regular schedule. Tuscany Day commemorates the anniversary of the abolition of death penalty and torture in Tuscany (1786) by Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo. Tuscany was the first “country” (it was an independent country back then) to end capital punishment, and this, I believe, is a good reason to be very proud.

Inexpensive holidays

Since November usually falls in the low season, it’s the perfect time of the year to take a low cost holiday in Tuscany.

We always have special offers in November, often associated with visits to the olive groves and to the olive presses.

Pisa is one of the cities in Tuscany (along with Florence) where such complaints are most frequent. This post will hopefully clear up a few points.

What is a ZTL?

ZTL is an acronym which stands for Zona a Traffico Limitato, meaning Limited Traffic Zone. It is an area of the city center that is closed to non-residential traffic. Only city buses, taxis, residents with a valid permit and other authorized vehicles (i.e. delivery vehicles, couriers, etc.), can drive there.

What is the point of having a ZTL?

ZTLs are not created to mess with drivers, either locals or foreigners. There are three main reasons for having ZTLs in cities.

1. Italian cities are old, and the centers of most of them boast historical buildings of great value which are inevitably damaged by traffic. This is undisputable: everybody knows that traffic is bad for old monuments and buildings. It covers them in black powder, it produces vibrations that destabilize them and damages façades.
2. Streets are narrow and pollution is not easily dispersed in the maze of roads that constitute the center of most Italian cities. This impacts badly of the health of the residents of the cities that are most popular with tourists.
3. Cars are noisy, and messy. In order to fully appreciate the beauty of the city center of an old city, you need to be able to reduce the amount of traffic and create pedestrian zones or zones with a low number of vehicles zooming by. It’s safer. It’s prettier. It’s healthier.

For these reasons, most municipalities have decided to create “protected” areas where only the most inevitable traffic is allowed: only residents can drive and park in ZTLs, if they have obtained a special permit from the City. Otherwise, they are not allowed either.

Everybody else, Italian, local or non local, or foreigner, has to stick to the alternative routes where driving is allowed.

How do I know if I am in a ZTL or where they are located?

A common myth is that ZTLs are not clearly marked, on purpose. This is simply false.

ZTLs are clearly marked with large signs, lane restrictions and cameras on big poles. You simply have to know what to look for, so do your homework before coming to Italy.

If you didn’t notice when you passed through one of the ZTLs gates, there is no way to know that you are in a ZTL for sure. Some good clues, though, are:

1. all the parking spaces on the side of the road you are on are free (marked in white)
2. all the cars parked there have local plates
3. all the cars parked there have a special sticker on their windshield
4. you are driving by outstanding monuments and tourist spots
5. there are only few cars moving on the road where you are driving and many pedestrians

What happens if I drive through a ZTL?

You will be fined if you drive past the cameras at the entrance of the ZTL . They are clearly marked, you have to know what to look for, so do your homework before coming to Italy.

You won’t receive the fine until after you have gone back home. It will probably be the car rental agency that will forward it to you. The fines range between €76 and €100.

Please note that you can be fined several times in the space of a few minutes, that is every time you pass under a ZTL camera. Be careful when you drive in a city you don’t know.

Pay attention to the signs indicating mandatory direction or no entry.

How am I supposed to know that ZTLs even exist? Why didn’t the car rental agency warn me?

It is your responsibility to learn about the rules of the road in the country you are about to visit and where you plan on driving. Most guidebooks will have a section about driving at the end.

It is also your responsibility to find out if the road signs look the same, if what is allowed in your home country is also allowed in Italy, etc. Car rental agencies cannot be held responsible for your ignorance on the matter or for you not taking the time to learn about cultural differences before traveling. They might not even be aware of what the customs in your country are, or that ZTLs are a European thing. It’s you who are travelling across cultures, not them. They also have no way to know where you intend to drive.

Also don’t expect signs or warnings in any language other than Italian.

Here is an excellent article about ZTL Zones and Traffic Cameras on Roadways and in Towns in Italy. Please make sure you read it before driving in Italy.

If you are from a non-EU country road signs are different: make sure you learn them. Here is a useful guide to Italian road signs.

If you still have questions, ask your hotel or vacation rental owner about possible things you need to know to drive to your accommodation, e.g. special permits required to reach it or park nearby etc. They are more likely to have those answers than the car rental agencies.

What if I get fined and I am already at home?

You will receive a notification with details for the payment and contact numbers. Pisa has an English and German speaking call center too. You will be asked to pay by bank trasnfer.

You can try an appeal, but it will be rejected unless you can prove the camera was not functioning properly or that you were not driving that car.

If you live in France, you have no choice but to pay the fine, because of a special agreement between our two countries. If you live in any other country, it’s ethical to pay. But if you don’t, there is not much Italy can do. Some car rental agencies might have you sign a form to get permission to charge your credit card in case of fines.

UPDATE: Some one pointed out that first, the car rental agency sends you a notification it has charged you for giving your details to the police (or whomever sends the fine) and then you get the fine separately from the authorities and up to a year later. (Thank you Lynn!)

Not paying a fine is not a crime in Italy. It’s an administrative infraction, so you won’t be jailed next time you set foot in Italy again… The car rental agency might initiate a debt collection procedure against you.

The ZTL in Pisa

I have already written something about the ZTLs in Pisa a few weeks ago. Here is the official map of the access points of the ZTL in the city. And here is a google map I created – you have to watch out for the cameras in Via Roma and Via Mazzini.

Some people believe they are a scam for tourists, but they’re not. They support their thesis with the argument that the city council even has English and German speaking clerks helping people pay ZTL fines. That is a service meant to help people who were distracted or didn’t do their homework and entered one of these areas.

Italians get fined too. But not, as some believe, because ZTLs are so difficult to identify that not even Italians can see them, but because when you navigate an unknown city, you get distracted, whatever your nationality. So the first thing to do is to learn to identify the ZTLs.

SeeZTLs accesses in Pisa on a larger map.

Tired of reading about this, I asked for numbers. It is true that 70% of the fines go to tourists, the remaining 30% to Italians, 40% of which are not from the city.

90% of the fines given to tourists happen near the Leaning Tower in Via Roma. Some might say that then this is the proof that the ZTL is not clearly marked, and it’s tricky.

This is the access where 90% of the tourists get fined:

Should you still be wondering how can you possibly know that this is the access of a ZTL…

To avoid this, you need to turn in Via Salvi, the street that you can see on the left, before the pedestrian crossing. If you end up in Via Santa Maria, you are in the ZTL.

The remaining 10% of the fines are received by tourists trespassing the ZTL access in Via Giuseppe Mazzini, a street that veers off the Lungarno.

Again, it is pretty obvious that this is where the ZTL starts:

As I mentioned in the other post about parking in Pisa, this access can be a bit confusing, because you only see the ZTL cameras once you have already turned into Via Mazzini, and backing up into the Lungarno is not an option. However, if you pay attention to the signs on the Lungarno, you will see that you will have passed signs indicating that you must go straight.

These two accesses together make up for 100% of the ZTL violations by foreign drivers. Learn to recognize them and you will be fine.

You will be fine if you drive along the Lungarni (these roads that run along the river banks) without taking ANY side roads. Stay on the Lungarni, or outside the city walls.

Italians, on the other hand, are more likely to be fined on the Lungarni in the summer. The ZTL on the Lungarno is only active in the summer after 9pm when the locales on the river are open and thriving. There are usually traffic policemen too, so as to reduce the number of confused drivers, and flashing signs say “varco attivo” (active cameras). When the sign is like this “varco non attivo” (inactive cameras), it means you can drive there.

I had a GPS system: it’s not possible that I drove through a ZTL

GPS Navigation Systems are totally unreliable when it comes to identifying ZTLs. First of all, the software is often not up to date with the change in traffic in the cities. Second, they can be used by residents and taxis too, and are programmed to show the easiest way to get from point A to point B, independently of whether such points are included in a ZTL or not.

Do not rely on GPS systems to avoid ZTLs: it’s proven that they do not work at all.

I have booked accommodation located within a ZTL: what should I do then?

Write to the reception and make sure that you can drive to your hotel. If not, ask them where you can park your car nearby. Most hotels in limited traffic zones will have special agreements with the local traffic police offices to allow their guests to safely reach the hotel. If this is the case, make sure you let them know your plate number as soon as possible so that they can file it with the dedicated offices to get you a special permit to drive in the ZTL. The cameras will still take pictures of your car but you will not be fined because the system will know that you had a permit.

Be aware that having permission to drive through a ZTL to reach your accommodation does not give you the right to drive through all the ZTLs in the city. If you are staying in a hotel near Via Mazzini for example, you will still be fined if you try to enter the ZTL near the Leaning Tower. Pisa is divided into four distinct ZTL areas, each requiring a different permit. The permits are only valid insofar as they allow you to get to your accommodation and back to the free driving zone.

Did I forget anything?

If you have a question about ZTLs in Pisa or in general which is not answered here, please leave a comment and I will try to find an answer! Thanks!

What is Tuscany like in October?

October is the month when the fall really starts to set in. The first half of the month is usually still quite warm with temperatures that range between 20 and 25°C (68-77°F) during the central hours of the day, then drop in the evenings and are much lower in the mornings (between 10 and 15°C/50-59°F). This year, the beginning of October promises to be warmer than average, just like September was. By mid October, temperatures will range between 10°C (50°F) and 20°C (68°F).

Some rain should be expected. The beginning of the month usually sees occasional bad weather which never lasts too long, while at the end of the month, the bad weather can be more persistent. Windy days are quite common in October.

Normally, it will still be nice enough to eat outdoors at lunch time, although by the end of the month, you might be more comfortable indoors. In the evenings, especially if windy, it is preferable to sit inside. By the last week of October, you might enjoy the first fire of the season and find sitting in front of the fireplace quite pleasant. In Tuscany, it is usually too cold (well… at least for Italians!) to go to the beach or use a swimming pool. As a matter of fact, most swimming pools will be closed at the end of September.

(Photo by Francesco Sgroi)

If you visit Tuscany in October remember to pack both short-sleeve and long-sleeve shirts, and a light jacket. I love wool cardigans which you can either use under your jacket in case of an usually cold October or as a jacket. In any case, you will need to dress in layers. Most people stop wearing open shoes even if it’s still warm: if you want to blend in, it’s time to move to closed footwear! (See my post about the fact that Italians dress for the season rather than for the weather).

Colors start to change in the countryside. Don’t expect the spectacular north American foliage: we almost totally lack the shades of red. This doesn’t mean that you won’t get any fall colors. During the second half of the month, vines start to turn yellow and in fact, the only place where you might see shades of red is in some vineyards. Leaves on trees also start to turn yellow and brown. The foliage in Lucca is beautiful at the end of October.

If October is rainy, green grass will make its appearance after the summer dryness and will cover the fields with a thin coat of green. Olives start to turn purple on the olive trees and pomegranates assume their beautiful magenta color. Persimmons turn yellow and wild bushes are covered in red berries.

If you have a chance to take a walk in the woods, you will notice many hot pink wild cyclamens: so pretty!

What is in season in October?

October is a relatively “poor” month in terms of seasonal products. Pears and apples are in season but Tuscany is not a major producer. Grapes are still available and you might be able to get the last egg plants of the seasn. By the end of the month the first persimmons, pomegranates and chestnuts might be ready, although they are more likely to be ready in November.

If you like cabbage, October is your month! Broccoli, cowliflower, cabbage and sprouts are in season and so are fennel, leeks and pumpkins.

The most appreciated of the ingredients on the October table are porcini mushrooms, especially if sunny and rainy days alternate and the temperatures are mild. This year seems to be promising.

Game meat is available, because the hunting season is open. If you go for a walk in the woods, make sure to wear something in bright colours.

Sagre or Village Festivals

October is a popular month for village festivals, so if you want to experience joining in the celebrations this is a good month. They are usually festivals dedicated to seasonal products.

Some festivals in our area are:

• Sagra del Fungo Porcino (dedicated to porcini mushrooms) in Casale di Pari, first weekend of October.
• Sagra del Fungo Amiatino (dedicated to mushrooms of the Mount Amiata) in Bagnolo di Santa Fiori, beginning of October

Other popular festivals and fairs which might be worth being incorporated into your travel plans are:

• Festa della Vendemmia (dedicated to the grape harvest) in Asciano, beginning of October
• Sagra del Galletto (dedicated to rooster meat) in Montalcino, first weekend in October
• Sagra del Tordo (dedicated to thursh meat) in Montalcino, last weekend in October
• Sagra della Castagna (dedicated to chestnuts) in Cortona, beginning of October
• Dolcemente Pisa (fair dedicated to desserts) in Pisa, beginning of October
• La Festa d’Autunno (dedicated to chestnuts and mushrooms) in Abbadia San Salvatore, mid October
• Sagra della Castagna (dedicated to chestnuts) in Montieri, mid October
• Castagna in festa (dedicated to chestnuts) in Arcidosso and Castel del Piano, mid October
• Sagra del Primo Olio (dedicated to olive oil) in San Giovanni d’Asso, early October
• Zucche in Festa (dedicated to pumpkins) in Castell’Azzara, early October

Steam engine trains

An attraction that few people know of is the old railway system. An association called “Ferrovie Turistiche” has revived the old railway line that, from Siena, cuts through the Val d’Orcia and reaches the villages of Mount Amiata. The line is not used anymore for the most part, except on special occasions when it is reopened to steam engine trains which take people to various events in the area.

The rides are usually organized in the spring and in the fall. In October, you can go from Siena to Asciano for the Grape Harvest Festival (October 2), or from Siena to Arcidosso and Castel del Piano on Mount Amiata for the Chestnut Festival (October 23). If you happen to be in Florence, on October 16, you can reach Marradi for the Chestnut Festival.

The website of the Ferrovie Turistiche is in English too.

“Pane e coperto” literally means bread and tableware but it is essentially a service charge that restaurants add to the bill for each guest.  It can be as little as 50 cents and as much as 3 or 4 euros in more touristy places. If the restaurant applies these service charges, the amount is always indicated in the menu. Please note that it will be charged at village festivals too.

Up until a few years ago, restaurants were obliged to charge for “pane e coperto“, but now restaurant owners may decide whether to charge their clients or not. As a matter of fact, many of the restaurants that cater to locals or where people go for lunch on work days don’t charge it anymore. In Pisa, I haven’t paid any service charges for a long time at either Vineria di Piazza or Osteria dei Santi.

The most common complaints I have read online are…

Why should I pay for bread if I don’t eat it or if I didn’t order any?

The fee doesn’t really have anything to do with bread per se, even if the word pane is in the name. It’s is simply a service charge. It is part of the Italian way of life… you simply have to know that you might be charged for it, so make sure to check how much it is on the menu and deal with it.

Bread is brought to you whether you eat it or not. If you ask for more bread, you will not be charged extra, similarly to what happens with water in most north American restaurants.

Why should I pay for unsalted bread that I don’t like?

Bread in Tuscany is mostly unsalted. Restaurants serving you with unsalted bread are not trying to give you the cheapest stuff they could get: that’s what people eat here. Tuscan bread is not to be eaten alone. It is meant to accompany savoury food, such as cured meats, game meat, or crostini sauces.

The charge is too expensive

Charges will be higher in the most touristy areas. Restaurants have the right to choose their own prices. The only thing you can do is avoid restaurants in very popular spots (where people invite you in, or where you can see pictures of food…) and always check the prices on the menu before sitting down. Many restaurants publish their menu outside, and there is nothing wrong with asking to see a menu if this is not the case. Most smaller restaurants or restaurants outisde the touristy areas will in fact not have menus on display because they assume you know the average price for food in the area. If you sit down and you order, you commit to paying the service charge if applied.

I had no idea that I would be charged for pane e coperto

As I always tell our guests, if you don’t like finding out about cultural differences once you are already here, you need to “do your homework“. Most guidebooks will mention these charges. Every country has its own habits: when you visit you need to adjust to the local way of life. Please see my post about “Expecting the Unexpected” for further cultural differences which might come as a surprise to you.

Being charged for service is unacceptable

It always amazes me when I hear this comment from North American guests. I always need to point out how tricky it is for an Italian to go to a North American supermarket or restaurant and find out that the prices advertised are before taxes and that tips are mandatory, only when the check comes. All in all, pane e coperto is incredibly cheap compared to adding taxes and a tip to the final bill, and this way the price list is much more transparent.

It’s the way things are done in the States and Canada though, just like pane e coperto is how things are done in Italy. As we say… paese che vai, usanza che trovi, that is, when in Rome, do as Romans do… which is particularly appropriate in this case!

But at least at home I can choose not to tip for bad service

The “pane e coperto” service charge is not a tip.  The money goes to the restaurant, not to your server. Tipping your waiter is optional in Italy. Waiters, as a rule, don’t expect tips although they do appreciate them. If you get bad service you can choose not to tip your server just like you would back home, but you’ll still need to pay the “service” charge. It’s just the way things work here.

What is Tuscany like in September?

September is usually one of the most pleasant months of the year to be in Tuscany. It is still warm, with summer-like weather, but not hot. This year (2011), we have had an exceptionally hot September, but this is highly unusual.

Usually, the first half of the month is hotter than the second half. In early September, most people are still going to the beach regularly. It is warm enough that you can comfortably wear your summer clothes from dawn to dusk, and it is still great weather for dining outdoors and using swimming pools.

(Photo by Been Around)

In hilly areas like ours, you might already need a light, long-sleeve shirt in the mornings and evenings. Air-conditioning is not necessary anymore, because temperatures rarely go above 25°C and the humidity is low because of the cool September breeze.

(Photo by Around Tuscany)

There is usually a real change in the air. The sky becomes clearer, the air crispy. The first late summer showers bring about that great smell of wet hay that announces that fall is just around the corner.

By mid September, temperatures are usually lower, around 22-23°C. A light jacket might be necessary in the mornings and evenings. Sometimes the wind is quite cool. It is still pleasant enough to have dinner “al fresco” (but it is usually too cold for short sleeves at night), go to the beach and use swimming pools, at least during the warmest time of the day (between 11am and 4pm).

The real change in the air happens at this point, both physically and metaphorically. It gets cooler, of course, and the mornings are characterized by beautiful misty views and pink dawns. Showers and storms become more frequent, but they are still occasional.

School starts again and life goes back to its normal rhythms after the summer holidays (see the latest round of posts of the Italy Blogging Roundtable about going “back to school“). The positive side of this is that everything is open and thriving. The negative side is that, in cities, traffic goes back to evil.

The Grape Harvest

September is the time of the year when grapes are harvested. Well, when I was a kid my grandfather insisted that grapes should not be picked before October, but over the years the climate has changed so much that October is just too late now. The large wine estates start picking at the end of August. My family harvests grapes in September.

This is a good time of the year to go visit wineries. Remember to call ahead if you don’t join a wine tour, because it is a very busy time of the year and some wineries might not accept unexpected visitors. (Here is a link to a nice Wine Tour in Maremma. We went in August, but you can get an idea of places to go to in the area. And for more information on wine trails in our area, check this page about the wines of Tuscany).

If you decide to stick to cities, you won’t “feel” the grape harvest much. But if you go to any village in the countryside of Tuscany, you can really feel it in the air… or rather… smell it! Everybody has a little patch of land with a few vines, and you will see plenty of people unloading crates of grapes in front of their cellars in the village, washing the machine you use to press grapes, etc. The smell of must is intoxicating!

(Photo by mahlisuh)

Many people ask whether it is possible to participate in the grape harvest. Unfortunately, by law, only contracted and insured workers can work in the fields, so it likely won’t be possible to actively participate in the grape harvest. However, if you participate in a wine tour, wineries might let you pick a few grapes just to let you experience how it’s done. It depends on the wine estate and how flexible they are.

What is in season in September?

Nowadays you find all kind of fruit and vegetables all year round. In Italy however, we still tend to stick to what is in season, and believe me seasonal fruit and vegetables taste so much better!

(Photo by jo mclure)

So, if you happen to be in Tuscany in September, you can still find the last peaches and plums of the season, although they are not very good, but most importantly you can eat grapes and figs, which are in full swing in September. The first pears and apples are available, but they are not commonly grown in Tuscany, especially apples. The vegetable garden still offers decent tomatoes, carrots, green beans, egg plants, new potatoes, and bell peppers. The first fennels, leeks, broccoli, pumpkins, Brussel sprouts, cabbages of different types and cauliflowers usually make their appearance in mid to late September. Last but not least, mushrooms could be available if the weather is right and truffles are in season!

You might be able to taste fresh game meat: September is the month when the hunting season starts. Only certain birds can be hunted, and the most appreciated of all, the pheasant, can be hunted only after the third Sunday of September. If you go for a walk in the woods, make sure to wear something in bright colours.

Sagre or Village Festivals

September is a popular month for village festivals, so if you want to experience joining in the celebrations this is a good month. They are usually festivals dedicated to seasonal products.

Some festivals and fairs in our area are:

• Sagra della Granocchia (dedicated to frogs) in Paganico – first weekend of September
• Sagra della Salsiccia (dedicated to sausage) in Pari – last weekend of September

Other popular festivals and fairs which might be worth being incorporated in your travel plans are:

• Festa dell’Uva (dedicated to the grape harvest) in Scansano, home to the Morellino DOC Wine – mid to late September
• Festa dell’Uva (dedicated to the grape harvest) in Cinigiano, home to the Montecucco DOC Wine – last weekend of September
• Maremma Food Shire – Braccagni,organized for the first time this year, this promises to be an interesting yearly event about the products of the Maremma.
• Sagra del Vinsanto e del Ciambello (dedicated to vinsanto and a type of traditional biscuits) in Montepulciano – usually the second last weekend of September
• Festa della Bistecca e del Fungo Porcino (dedicated to T-bone steaks and porcini mushrooms) in Certaldo, usually every weekend in September
• Mostra mercato del tartufo e del fungo (dedicated to truffles and mushrooms) in Palaia – last weekend of September
• Sagra del tartufo bianco e del fungo porcino (dedicated to white truffle and porcini mushrooms) in San Miniato, near Pisa – one of the most popular – late September.

What tourist season is September?

The first week of September is usually still considered high-season. But most hotels, vacation rentals etc. will consider Septemer mid-season. This means that travelling in September you can get great weather, lower prices, smaller crowds and a more authentic experience of life in Italy.

Moreover, you might be able to get some nice last minute deals because the tourist demand decreases.

Planning to get married in Tuscany?

September is a popular month for weddings. It is still warm enough to have an outdoor wedding ceremony and reception. If you plan on getting married in Tuscany in September, you need to start planning at least 9 months in advance, possibly a full year, because wedding venues book up early. If you need help planning your September wedding in Tuscany, we recommend you get in touch with Boutique Events.

Where to park in Pisa

The first thing to remember is that most parking spots in Pisa are pay and display parking spots. Pay parking is marked by blue lines; white lines are for free parking spaces and yellow lines are for reserved parking spaces (incuding parking spaces for the disabled).

Parking is generally unsupervised, even in the private parking lots.

If you park in one of the pay parking spots along the road, you need to go to the nearest parking meter and pre-pay for the parking, estimating the amount of time you will need to leave your car there. Most of the automatic machines only work with coins, so remember to keep some change in the car. They are usually located under white and blue and white and black signs with the symbol of a parking meter and the cost per hour of stay which varies from 60 cents to 2.50 euros per hour, depending on the zone. There is a minimum amount you must pay (usually 60 cents or 30 mins – whichever is higher) depending on the zone. Of course, the closer you are to the tourist areas, the more expensive parking will be. You need to insert coins and you will see on a small display the amount of time you are allowed to stay. When you are done, you need to push the green button and the machine will print a ticket that you need to leave clearly on display inside your car on the dash.

Another option is to go to one of the enclosed parking lots: the two largest ones are on Via Cameo (Parcheggio di Piazza dei Miracoli), just a few steps away from the Leaning Tower, and just around the corner from that, by the Pam Supermarket (turn left at the roundabout at the end of Via Cameo). There you need to obtain a ticket when you go in, but you only pay when you are ready to leave the parking lot. There are actual parking attendants. A tip: the entrance to the Parcheggio di Piazza dei Miracoli can be tricky because there are two identical entrances, but one is for the university cafeteria. I see tourists stuck there trying to reverse all the time. The entrance to the parking lot is the one on the left.

If you plan on spending the day and want to save on parking, there is a private parking lot behind the Agip Gas Station in Via Bonanno, opposite the former Emergency Room. They apply a daily fee which is much lower than hourly parking rates. Also, in the same area, the parking spaces in Via Padre Bruno Fedi and in the Via Lucchese area are free after 2pm.

The cheapest option of course is free parking, which is available in the two park and ride parking lots called Parcheggio Via Pietrasantina (ideal if you come from the Autostrada and exit at Pisa Nord – there is a Tamoil gas station at the entrance of the parking lot that you can use as a reference point), and Parcheggio del Brennero (ideal if you arrive via Lucca).  The former is only a 10 minute walk to the Leaning Tower, and the city bus line LAM Rossa stops there every 10 to 15 minutes so it’s very convenient. The latter is a bit farther away, but it is served by the city bus Navetta E, which will take you right downtown to Piazza Santa Caterina or Via Santa Maria. Something to remember: Parcheggio del Brennero is where the city market is held, so it is taken up by the market stalls on Wednesday and Saturday morning.

Here is a Google map with some of the most accessible parking areas in Pisa.

A word of caution: if you are in an area with white parking spots (except in the two large parking lots that I have just mentioned), you are probably where you should not be… they are usually only for residents and therefore in areas restricted to non-residential traffic.

ZTL – Zone a Traffico Limitato… or Limited Traffic Zones

This is another very common topic in forums, especially those which deal with Pisa and Florence.

ZTLs are a way to reduce the pressure of non residential traffic in highly touristic destinations. They are also a way to guarantee that some areas stay exclusively pedestrian, and that traffic does not damage the oldest parts of the cities more than is strictly necessary.

Some people believe they are a scam for tourists, but believe me: they’re not. They support their thesis with the argument that the city council even has English and German speaking clerks helping people pay ZTL fines. This is such a stupid argument… it’s a service that is meant to help people who were distracted or didn’t do their homework and entered one of these areas.

Italians get fined too. But not, as some believe, because ZTLs are so difficult to identify that not even Italians can see them, but because when you navigate an unknown city, you get distracted, whatever your nationality. Any car, Italian or foreign, that enters a ZTL without a valid permit for that ZTL will be fined. And it is expensive. So the first thing to do is to learn to identify the ZTLs. They are all clearly marked with (very confusing) signs and most of them will also have cameras on big poles and well marked entry lanes…

What I always recommend is that you learn about Italian road signs before getting behind the wheel on an Italian road.

In the photo above, I have added the standard sign you find before entering a ZTL, the ZTL entrance to the Santa Maria Quarter, and a third sign that might be confusing. The rightmost sign is found at the entrance of the Lungarno for those who come from the airport. They will also see cameras. The ZTL on the Lungarno is only active in the summer after 9pm when the locales on the river are open and thriving. There are usually traffic policemen too, so as to reduce the number of confused drivers, and the sign says “varco attivo” (active cameras). When the sign is like this “varco non attivo” (inactive cameras), it means you can drive there.

In Pisa, you will be fine if you drive along the Lungarni (the roads that run along the river banks) without taking ANY side roads. Stay on the Lungarni, or outside the city walls. I am not sure where people get fined the most in Pisa, but I am ready to bet it is in Via Mazzini, which is a relatively big road off the Lungarno where buses are allowed to drive, but not cars. Stay on the Lungarno and outside the city walls and you will be fine.

Here is the ZTL entrance to Via Mazzini:

It can be a bit confusing, because you only see it once you have already turned into Via Mazzini, and backing up into the Lungarno is not an option.

However, if you pay attention to the signs on the Lungarno, you will see that you will have passed signs indicating that you must go straight.

Here is a map of the ZTL access points in the city and here you can read more on ZTLs in Italy and Pisa.

Where to park in Siena

The same general rules apply in Siena. There are several main areas where you can park at the street level: near the city gate Porta Camollia, near the city gate Porta Romana, near the city gate Porta Laterina, by the Soccer Stadium and the Fortress, and by Fontebranda.

We always recommend parking at the Soccer Stadium-Fortress area, but keep in mind that on Wednesdays it is taken up by the weekly market.

There are several other underground parking lots such as Parcheggio Il Campo and Parcheggio il Duomo, and also the parking lot at the train station.

I thought it might be useful to collect in one single post some links to older posts that can help travelers to plan their next vacation in Tuscany.

Happy Planning!

1. Where should we base ourselves in Tuscany?

Tuscany is a varied region, with many different interesting areas, each with its own specific character and features: a post which I hope will help some travelers to choose among the many destinations that Tuscany has to offer.

2. What to see in Northern Tuscany

A very quick presentation of what travelers can see in the provinces in the north of Tuscany.

3. What to see in Southern Tuscany

A very quick presentation of what travelers can see in the Siena and Grosseto provinces.

4. To drive or not to drive in Tuscany? That is the question.

It depends on where you want to go and the type of traveller you are. Here are some thoughts on this popular question.

5. 10 “alternative” things to do in Tuscany

Most travelers to Tuscany don’t venture outside the major landmarks.This region, though, has much to offer beyond the popular spots. If you are ready to venture off the beaten path and see more than what you find in guidebooks, you will go home with a completely different image of this amazing region.

6. Those little acts of kindness and cross-cultural awareness…

…which make all the difference in the relationship with your host when you travel. Please read this post if you are planning on booking accommodation! Thank you!

7. Expecting the unexpected

There are many cultural-specific aspects of a destination which we are often unprepared to face. Here are 20 points discussing aspects of the Italian lifestyle which might puzzle the traveler, but which you are likely to have to deal with if you visit Tuscany or any other region of Italy.

8. 5 romantic things to do in Tuscany on Valentine’s Day

… or on any other day!

9. How to travel from Pisa to Florence…

…or from Pisa airport to Pisa Central Train Station, or from the station to the Leaning Tower, or… have you considered using Pisa as a base?

10. 5 things to do in Tuscany in the fall

My favourite time of the year, perfect for discovering the best products of Tuscany.

11. Sightseeing int Pisa

There is so much more than the Leaning Tower!

12. Off-the-beaten-path Tuscany: A Slow Drive in Tuscany

An itinerary for a scenic drive in the inland areas of the Maremma, perfect also for walks, bike tours and horseback rides.

13. 10 things to do in Tuscany when it rains

Nobody likes rainy days when we are on holiday. But Tuscany has much to offer even when the weather is not as good as you have hoped!

14. New Year’s Eve in Tuscany

The traditions of New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day in our corner of Tuscany.

15. Things to see in picture-perfect Tuscany

Ideas on places to see in our area.

16. Things to do in picture-perfect Tuscany

Courses, tours and activities.

17. Parking in Pisa and Siena

A (hopefully) useful post about where to park in Pisa and Siena, and some info on how to avoid being fined in the ZTLs. And no… they are not a scam for tourists. You just need to do your homework before getting behind the wheel and pay some attention to road signs.

18. ZTL: Limited Traffic Zones

All you need to know about limited traffic zones in Italy, and Pisa in particular, and on how to avoid fines.

19. “Pane e coperto”: service charges in Italian restaurants

“Pane e coperto” literally means “bread and tableware” but it is essentially a service charge that restaurants add to the bill for each guest. It is one of the most controversial issues in travel forums. I say it’s part of the Italian way of life, and we have to learn to live with it.

The fact is that we love it, and we have had a chance to meet so many incredible people over the years (check my post A lucky day in the life of a vacation rental owner – and we have been lucky enough to have plenty of those days, and by the way… I need to apologize to the guests who I haven’t had a chance to meet in person over the last couple of months! You have no choice, you need to come back next year!), and that makes it well worth it.

But, since it is not our main occupation, what happens is that I am stuck at the University (which is my main occupation) from September to July and then when I could go on holiday because the University shuts down for the summer, that is our high-season for the vacation rentals. And even throughout the school year, when my colleagues can afford to take the weekend off, well, we have cleaning to do and guests to check in and out, so we are stuck at home again.  As a matter of fact, our life is quite the opposite of a never-ending vacation: we do get a chance to feel somewhat on holiday when we have time to spend some time with our guests, but as a matter in fact we work essentially 365 days a year. But what can you do? Every rewarding job comes with a lack of free time.

If I could live off of this, I would give up academia in a heartbeat. At least I would have a few months off in winter when the tourist demand is low. But as long as we have loans and mortgages to pay back for the investments we made for the renovations and all, I need to do something else too.

So here is the thing. We would really like to leave for a few days in June this year to celebrate our 3rd wedding anniversary. We still have two vacant weeks at Casina di Rosa, from June 18 to July 2. And here comes the blatant advertising: we are happy to give 10% off our regular prices to guests who want to rent the house for the two full weeks. The rental price for both weeks would be 900 euros in high season and we don’t charge for anything extra. Final cleaning, all expenses, air-conditioning, internet  access, washing machine, linens and towels, parking space: it’s all included.

So if you are interested in coming to Tuscany, or if you know someone who might and who is looking into renting a place in a little village in the Tuscan countryside, please contact us!  We feel very generous and we really need that holiday… LOL

The place is very convenient for visiting most of the most popular sites in southern Tuscany (check Where should we base ourselves in Tuscany? and What to see in Southern Tuscany). It’s equally distant from the coast of the Maremma if you want to go to the beach, to Siena and to Montalcino. There is plenty in the area to keep you busy for two weeks, and you always come back to a quiet non-touristy place which is a real community. (Have I convinced you yet? LOL)

Please help us spread the word! Thanks!

End of blatant self-promotion.