I thought it might be useful to collect in one single post some links to older posts that can help travelers to plan their next vacation in Tuscany.

Happy Planning!

1. Where should we base ourselves in Tuscany?

Tuscany is a varied region, with many different interesting areas, each with its own specific character and features: a post which I hope will help some travelers to choose among the many destinations that Tuscany has to offer.

2. What to see in Northern Tuscany

A very quick presentation of what travelers can see in the provinces in the north of Tuscany.

3. What to see in Southern Tuscany

A very quick presentation of what travelers can see in the Siena and Grosseto provinces.

4. To drive or not to drive in Tuscany? That is the question.

It depends on where you want to go and the type of traveller you are. Here are some thoughts on this popular question.

5. 10 “alternative” things to do in Tuscany

Most travelers to Tuscany don’t venture outside the major landmarks.This region, though, has much to offer beyond the popular spots. If you are ready to venture off the beaten path and see more than what you find in guidebooks, you will go home with a completely different image of this amazing region.

6. Those little acts of kindness and cross-cultural awareness…

…which make all the difference in the relationship with your host when you travel. Please read this post if you are planning on booking accommodation! Thank you!

7. Expecting the unexpected

There are many cultural-specific aspects of a destination which we are often unprepared to face. Here are 20 points discussing aspects of the Italian lifestyle which might puzzle the traveler, but which you are likely to have to deal with if you visit Tuscany or any other region of Italy.

8. 5 romantic things to do in Tuscany on Valentine’s Day

… or on any other day!

9. How to travel from Pisa to Florence…

…or from Pisa airport to Pisa Central Train Station, or from the station to the Leaning Tower, or… have you considered using Pisa as a base?

10. 5 things to do in Tuscany in the fall

My favourite time of the year, perfect for discovering the best products of Tuscany.

11. Sightseeing int Pisa

There is so much more than the Leaning Tower!

12. Off-the-beaten-path Tuscany: A Slow Drive in Tuscany

An itinerary for a scenic drive in the inland areas of the Maremma, perfect also for walks, bike tours and horseback rides.

13. 10 things to do in Tuscany when it rains

Nobody likes rainy days when we are on holiday. But Tuscany has much to offer even when the weather is not as good as you have hoped!

14. New Year’s Eve in Tuscany

The traditions of New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day in our corner of Tuscany.

15. Things to see in picture-perfect Tuscany

Ideas on places to see in our area.

16. Things to do in picture-perfect Tuscany

Courses, tours and activities.

17. Parking in Pisa and Siena

A (hopefully) useful post about where to park in Pisa and Siena, and some info on how to avoid being fined in the ZTLs. And no… they are not a scam for tourists. You just need to do your homework before getting behind the wheel and pay some attention to road signs.

18. ZTL: Limited Traffic Zones

All you need to know about limited traffic zones in Italy, and Pisa in particular, and on how to avoid fines.

19. “Pane e coperto”: service charges in Italian restaurants

“Pane e coperto” literally means “bread and tableware” but it is essentially a service charge that restaurants add to the bill for each guest. It is one of the most controversial issues in travel forums. I say it’s part of the Italian way of life, and we have to learn to live with it.

Patricia of Got Saga asked me to contribute an article to her blog, and I did with pleasure. This is a slightly longer version of the article I wrote for her.

10 alternative things to do in Tuscany

Tuscany is one of the most popular destinations in Italy. Most travelers to this region, though, don’t venture outside the major landmarks. For this reason, they sometimes go back home thinking that Tuscany is a mostly touristy destination with lots of tourists everywhere. Quite to the contrary, Tuscany has lots of places that are easy to reach even if you choose to base yourselves in one of the popular spots but which are definitely off-the-beaten-path. These places can offer you a completely different image of this amazing region, certainly one of the most beautiful places in the world, and make for outstanding day trips.

1. Vie cave

Tuscany was home to one of the most ancient Italic civilizations: the Etruscans. They were powerful and thriving long before the Romans made their appearance on the scene and visiting the remains of their ancient world is one of the most impressive experiences both for adult and younger visitors to the region. One of the most incredible hikes in the entire region is that though the network of roads carved by the Etruscans through tall tuff stone walls near the beautiful town of Pitigliano:  the so-called Vie Cave.  Nobody really knows how Etruscans managed to cut these passages through stone, nor what their actual function was. The most credited hypotheses are that they were either water channels or sacred roads connecting burial grounds and other sacred grounds. A magical walk you won’t easily forget.

(Photo by Sbrinz81)

2. Picnic on Monte Amiata

Most people know that Tuscany is made of gentle rolling hills and open countryside. Most of those landscapes, which are typical of the Val d’Orcia and of the Sienese Crete, were created by an ancient volcano, Mount Amiata. Mount Amiata is the highest peak in the region, at 1700 m above sea level. Its slopes are dotted by small villages and towns, which have a distinct atmosphere. A visit to Mount Amiata is a way to discover a completely different facet of Tuscany, with its beech tree forests, the chestnut groves, the small churches hidden among large volcanic rocks. The woods that cover the top of the mountain are one of the most popular picnic destinations among the locals, who venture there to escape the heat of the long summer days. There are equipped areas where it’s possible to barbecue and sit at one of the many picnic tables. Or you can bring your own picnic food and choose a more private hideaway spot in the woods: it’s never too crowded. If you feel like some sightseeing too, the town of Abbadia San Salvatore has a fabulous medieval abbey, and the drive from Castiglion d’Orcia to Montalcino is simply breathtaking, especially if you are travelling by motorbike.

3. Climbing trees with kids

Italy does not have much which is specifically meant for younger travelers. Tree climbing parks are a notable exception and are perfect for a fun family day on the coast. Cielo Verde Adventure Park is a tree climbing park with itineraries ideal for all different ages. It’s located in the pine tree forest that lines the coast of Marina di Grosseto and makes for a perfect morning activity which can be ideally followed by a relaxing afternoon on the beautiful beach of the Maremma.

4. Horseback ride in the Maremma

The Maremma is a loosely populated area, with plenty of itineraries that are ideally discovered on horseback. Hire a guide for the day, and he will take you through what is considered the wild west of Tuscany, along paths that cut the Mediterranean maquis that covers the hills, through rivers that run through the plains, and past old farm houses and ancient ruins.

(Photo by aeminphilly)

5. Minicruise of the Tuscan archipelago

Tuscany is not only famous for its art heritage: its nature is also just as impressive. Not many people know that the coast of Tuscany is among the best in Italy, and even fewer people know that Tuscany is home to a spectacular archipelago, which is a paradise for divers and sea lovers. If you are on a tight schedule, one great way to enjoy a day at sea is to go on one of the 1 day mini-cruises which set off daily from Castiglione della Pescaia and Porto Santo Stefano and take people to the main islands of the archipelago including the Isle of Giglio, the Isle of Giannutri (a limited-access nature park with a fabulous archaeological site), the Isle of Elba, Capraia, Montecristo and Pianosa. The mini-cruise usually include a seafood meal on board and several stops to visit the islands and take a swim where is allowed.  Yet another way to discover one of the many facets of Tuscany.

(Isola del Giglio, photo by gioanola)

6. San Rossore Nature Park in a carriage

Pisa is famous for its Leaning Tower, but it has many other treasures. One of them is the beautiful nature park of San Rossore, which stretches from the city to the coast. One cool and romantic way to discover the park is to visit it on a horse-drawn carriage, just like the many noblemen and artists who used to spend their vacations in Pisa in the 19^th century used to do it.

(San Rossore in Carrozza)

7. Visit Borgo di Isola santa in Garfagnana

Another area of Tuscany which is very different from the better known images of the region is the mountain area north of Lucca called Garfagnana. This area is dotted by remote towns, semi-abandoned villages, and old large farmhouses where life must have been very hard only 50 years ago. Garfagnana is perfect for hiking but also to spend some time away from it all. One place that certainly allows for an away-from-it-all get away is the hamlet of Isola Santa. The hamlet is on the border of a small lake in the heart of the Apuan Alps. It was abandoned long ago, and some of the houses have recently been renovated and transformed in vacation rental apartments. From the hamlet, trails through the surrounding woods lead to other small abandoned villages: a magic hideaway in Tuscany.

(Photo by Rufux)

8. The monasteries of the Casentino near Arezzo

The wooded area called Casentino, near Arezzo, are the cradle of medieval Tuscany. Since the area is not central to the most popular destinations and definitely not the type of landscape you see on postcards and guidebooks, only few people venture there. Italians, though, love it. The Casentino forest is actually a national park, with great hiking and horseback riding itineraries. The park is dotted by ancient towns with castles and old churches. But the most impressive sites are La Verna and the Camaldoli Hermitages. La Verna is famous because St. Francis of Assisi received his stigmata here and it is a popular destination for pilgrims. Camaldoli is one of the most impressive Benedictine monasteries in Italy, dating back to the 13^th century. Hiking through the Foresta Casentinese to the hermitages is an unforgettable experience.

(Photo by Friar’s Balsam)

9. The Roman-Etruscan sites in Populonia and the beautiful Gulf of Baratti

A daytrip to Populonia and Baratti, on the coast of the Maremma, is a very rewarding experience. Populonia is home to a large Roman-Etruscan archaeological site, with well-preserved remains of houses, public and sacred buildings, burial grounds (necropolis) and roads. The archaeological park is quite big, and there are several itineraries that visitors can follow to visit it and for which you will need between 1 h 30 minutes and 2 hours and 30 minutes. From Populonia, where there is also a great fort on a very panoramic spot, you can walk down to the beautiful cove called Golfo di Baratti and enjoy a day on one of the best beaches in Italy.

(Photo by TuscanyArts)

10. Parco dei Mulini in Val d’Orcia

The Val d’Orcia is one of the most popular areas in Tuscany, but even in such a well-known area there are interesting sites that remain off-the-beaten-path. One of the most impressive is the park created to preserve the ancient medieval mills which supplied the region of Siena with flour. The park is near the pretty town of Bagni Vignone, famous for its thermal baths.

(Photo by gi+cri)

Tuscany is much more than the usual popular spots and venturing out off the beaten path does not mean missing out on something, but enjoying true treasures away from the crowds.

(Photo by Frankekko)

(Photo by Frankekko)

The party starts in the late afternoon when all the students and the people from Pisa start to fill the streets and the squares to see the market stalls and to gather for dinner with their friends. The restaurants, bars and squares of the center are crowded; street musicians play on the bridges; churches and monuments are open even after dark and cards are distributed in the street so that people can vote for the best decoration. Palazzo Blu usually wins, and again this year they have prepared stunning biancheria in the shape of many fans.

(Photo by amanda_was_here)

(Photo by Giuseppe Luigi di Pace)

(Photo by David J. Marshall)

The lampposts of the Lungarno have been decorated with flag shaped biancheria, to be lit by red, green and white candles to celebrate 150th anniversary of Italy.

When the sun goes down, the center of Pisa takes on a really magical atmosphere. You can hear people laughing, the noisy generators of the kiosks selling porchetta and brigidini, traditional sweets with anisette, and people playing in the streets.

(Photos by Francesco Collina)

At 11pm, the fireworks start.

(Photo by Pablo Tenorio)

(Photo by Zuorio)

Up until a few years ago, they were launched from the cittadella medicea and from its tower. Over the last couple of years though, given that you could only see them from one section of the Lungarno and it was always incredibly crowded, they have started shooting the fireworks from the two ends of the Lungarno so that the show is really impressive and it can be enjoyed from everywhere along the Lungarno. This year they will be shot from four boats placed on four good spots on the river Arno. It will be really spectacular.

(Photo by androiGo)

After the fireworks, many people leave the city. Most people, though, remain in the city until dawn, moving from the Lungarno towards the surrounding squares to join in the street parties and in the parties organized by bars and pubs. In many squares there are bands playing live music.

(Photo by zufus)

(Photo by John Soqquadro)

My favourite spot to see the fireworks and spend the night is Argini e Margini, a bar on the river bank. Up until last year not many people knew how cool it was to see the fireworks from the river, but I expect this year to be very crowded.

Unlike many other festivals in famous cities in Tuscany, La Luminara is not very famous, even though it would certainly deserve to be. Tonight a UNESCO ambassador will be a guest of the city council, who have applied so that the festival can be recognized as UNESCO Wold Heritage Event.

The celebrations of La Luminara are just one of the many events organized in June in Pisa. Giugno Pisano is a full month of celebrations, concerts, exhibits and more. Tomorrow, June 17 and the actual Patron Saint’s Day, the  city will celebrate again with a historical regatta on the river Arno. This year it will be at night for the first time, with more candle light displays along the lungarno.

If you are planning to visit Pisa next year, remember to plan your trip around this events, because they really deserve it.

“The key date is June 16, with the Luminara di San Ranieri: over 100,000 candles are carefully placed in smooth, transparent glasses and hung on white wooden frames arranged to emphasize the outlines of the buildings, bridges, churches and towers that overlook the Lungarni. This year, a solemn edition will close the jubilee year of the patron saint of Pisa, in the 850th anniversary of his death.

Then, on the night of Saturday June 25, the traditional Gioco del Ponte, the historical event divided into two separate, but equally significant, moments: the Historical Procession on the Lungarni, with over 700 characters, and the “battle” staged on the Ponte di Mezzo. Here, the teams from the city’s two rival districts (Tramontana and Mezzogiorno) put their strength to the test by pushing a heavy cart in opposite directions in a heated moment  of fierce competition.

But the Giugno Pisano has a full thirty days of events to offer, with three protagonists: the city, its river and the sea.”

Events in the center of Pisa

The lights of the night in the churches of Pisa

Every Wednesday, from 9 to 11 pm, four of the most beautiful churches of the city will be open at night: Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri, San Sisto, San Pietro in Vinculis and Santa Cristina.

Celebrating the patron saint: Saint Ranieri

On the night of June 16, the Luminara along the river Arno, and the day after, June 17, the Palio di San Ranieri, (the Historical Regatta of San Ranieri): four boats, each representing one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods — Santa Maria, San Francesco, San Martino and Sant’Antonio — go head-to-head on the waters of the river Arno in a boat race, a legacy of the tradition of the Maritime Republic of Pisa.

(Photos of Frankekko)

Women of Italy

Palazzo Blu hosts the exhibition “Women of Italy. Half the Unity” untill June 26 (free admission). The exhibition, set up for the 150th anniversary of the Unification of Italy, tells the story of the country as seen through the eyes and vicissitudes of its most representative women. Open until 10 pm (Saturday and Sunday until 11 pm).

Piazza dei Miracoli

From June 17, night opening of the Leaning Tower and the Monumental Cemetery in the Piazza dei Miracoli.

(Photo by Tomcraft2xlc)

In the afternoon of Saturday, June 4, 11 and 18, there will be a guided tour of the Piazza entitled “Art and History of a great Maritime Republic”.  Further information: Tel. 050 822207, www.pisaguide.com

Guided Tours

An opportunity to visit Pisa on foot:

• Walking in Pisa (Monday, Thursday and Saturday, 10.45 am).
• The tour of Pisa by night on Friday evening. (Tel. +39 320 9154975)
• The Galilean Tour, every Saturday morning, an exciting walk around Galileo Galilei’s hometown will illustrate the human story and great discoveries of the founder of modern science. (Tel. +39 050 822207)
• Water paths: a journey amid sources and springs. Three itineraries, three days to walk along the water paths from the mountains to the city. (Tel. +39 320 9154975),

The flavours of Giugno Pisano

A chance to discover recipes and typical products of the true Pisan cuisine, thanks to a special menu “Giugno Pisano”, available from Monday to Thursday in 14 restaurants in Pisa and surroundings.

The Arno River

The river Arno is the second protagonist of the Giugno Pisano with Argini e Margini, a restaurant and wine bar along the river bank, with its menu of drinks and good music.  (My favourite place in Pisa! See our evenings at Argini e Margini)

Cruises on the Arno offer visitors an unusual view of Pisa (June 2, 5, 10, 19 and 29 at 9.30 pm). For information +39 050 530101 – visitesr@tin.it

The Tyrrhenian Sea

Starting from June 2 (every Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 8 pm), the bathing establishments of Marina di Pisa, Tirrenia and Calambrone will offer the most agreeable, amusing and intriguing entertainment with a series of evenings entitled Il mare nel bicchiere (The sea in a glass).

(Photo by domestictimes)

The Giugno Pisano 2011 will be a special month in the province of Pisa too.

• From June 3 (every Wednesday) the thermal baths Casciana Terme will be open at night
• Saturday, June 4, urban trekking  “Gust’arte” in Pontedera.
• Saturday, June 11, opening of the Museum of  the Arts and Crafts of Tuscany in Castelnuovo Val di Cecina.
• Saturday, June 18, a concert in the beautiful monumental Certosa of Calci.
• Saturday, June 18, the Notte Bianca in Pontedera.
• Saturday, June 25, the Notte Rossa in Volterra

You might also like to read…

• Low cost wine tours near Pisa
• Some summer events in Pisa
• Pisa awaits il Gioco del Ponte
• Pisa is getting ready
• I love Pisa in June

Every Thursday, people can participate in a wine tour to one of the wineries of the area of Terricciola. Few people know this wine region: Pisa and its territory are certainly not famous for wine. As a matter of fact, the area is still within the Chianti denomination and the wines produced in the area belong to the Chianti Colline Pisane DOC region.

(Photo by Eric Perrone)

Every week the tour takes people to a different winery, so it might be nice to go more than once. The tour is very reasonably priced: it only costs 45 euros per person, which includes transportation, a visit to a winery, wine tasting and a visit to a cheese producer (Caseificio L’Avvenire) and to a bakery (Panificio il Quadrifoglio in Terricciola). Here is the program:

• La Spinetta (May 19)
• Badia di Morrona (May 26)
• Fibbiano (June 2)
• Tenuta Podernovo (June 9)
• Castelvecchio (June 16)
• Pieve de’ Pitti (June 23)

You can download a pdf flier here (250kb).

(Photo by HippyDream)

A great opportunity to see a different corner of Tuscany and to discover the wines of the region of Pisa.

I have just received the newsletter from the tourist office in Pisa with a list of some of the events that will liven up the city and its territory! The list is not exhaustive but these should be the main events.

Volterra: The Leaning Tower in Alabaster

From April 20 to December 31, 2011
Visitors can admire the extraordinary alabaster copy of the Leaning Tower of Pisa at the Sala Ex Ospedale Civile in Piazza San Giovanni in Volterra. The sculpture is 2.4m tall and has been created by the members of the Arte in Bottega craftsmen’s guild. The statue is a unique masterpiece which displays the outstanding skillfulness of the alabaster craftsmen in Volterra and an exceptional attention to detail.
www.torrependenteinalabastro.com

A Night at the Spa

San Giuliano Terme, May 5-12-19-26, 2011
From 8pm until midnight: thermal pools, sauna, Turkish bath, relaxation areas, aperitifs and light snacks for an exclusive and unusual evening. 35 euros per person. Reservation is required.
www.bagnidipisa.com

Maggio in Musica

Calci, May 6-13-20-27, 2011
The Propositura di Calci, Stefano Messerini music school, the Corale Santa Cecilia, the Filarmonica G. Verdi, with the sponsorship of the Town Council of Calci and of the Unità Pastorale della Valgraziosa, present “Maggio in Musica”: a series of concerts held in Calci at the ancient Romanesque Pieve (May 6 and 27 at 9:15pm) and at the Valgraziosa Theatre (May13 and 20, at 9:15pm).
Entrance is free.
Info:
almanaccodicalci.blogspot.com

A Walk in the Italian Risorgimento

Pontedera, Montopoli in Val d’Arno, Santa Maria a Monte, Sunday May 15, 2011
A walk through historical landmarks in the Pisan Valdarno to discover the mansions which once belonged to some of the protagonists of the Italian Risorgimento. The walk celebrates the 150th anniversary of the unification of the country.
Program:

• 2pm – Departure from the parking lot of the Cineplex complex in Pontedera
• 2.30pm – Montecastello: arrival at the Villa Torrigiani-Malaspina
• 4.00pm – Le Pianora: arrival at the Villa Mayer-Passerin d’Entreves-Scaramucci
• 5.00pm – Marti: arrival at the Villa Majnoni-Baldovinetti
• 6.00pm – Varramista: arrival at Villa Capponi-Farinola-Piaggio (complimentary wine tasting offered by the Varramista winery)

Return to Pontedera between 7.30 and 8.00 pm.
Dinner in the Italian Risorgimento Style
Those who wish to experience a dinner as it would have been at the time of the Italian Risorgomento can join us at the club Il Cavatappi (30 € per person). This walk is made possible by the kindness of the present owners of the historic buildings mentioned who have enthusiastically agreed to open their homes to visitors.
Reservation is required.
Max number of participants: 80
Price for the walk: 10 € to be paid in cash before departure.
Transportation between the various stops of the tour is provided by the City Councils of Pontedera and Santa Maria a Monte.
Info and reservations:
Centro per l’Arte Otello Cirri
Tel. 0587 57282 (from Monday to Friday 10am-12pm)

Festa del Parco

Parco di Migliarino, San Rossore, Massaciuccoli, from May 19 to 29, 2011
11 days rich in events aimed at promoting the Regional Parks of the region and their wildlife and vegetation.
www.parcosanrossore.org

Cortelandia

Castelfranco di Sotto, Saturday May 21, 2011
Two days of walks in the heart of the Cerbaie, through fields and woodlands, on easy trails marked by boards made by the pupils of the local schools and serviced by kiosks serving refreshments.

• Saturday, 21 May: Guided walk through the fields of Villa Campanile and along the ancient trail of the via Francigena (Galleno).
• Sunday 22 May: Guided walk in the forest of Serradigo-Macchione to the eco-museum at Macchione in Orentano.
• On Saturday night participants can participate in a “veglia” (vigil).
• Related events:
• Saturday 21: walk in the oasis of carnivorous plants (ex opera Landini) in Fucecchio (Fi).
• Sunday 22: show dedicated to Tree Climbing and to the use of donkeys for the transportation of firewood, S. Maria a Monte (PI).
• Saturday 21 and Sunday 22: playing in nature: the Robinson Park, S. Croce sull’Arno (PI).

All events are free of charge.
Length of the walks: from 9.00am to 8.00pm
Departure: Villa Campanile, Orentano and Galleno.
Refreshments are not included.
Wear comfortable clothes and shoes suitable for hiking.
Info:
Consorzio Forestale delle Cerbaie
Tel. 0583 23006; cell. 334 8027631;  fax. 0583 238834
cfc@consorzioforestalecerbaie.it – www.consorzioforestalecerbaie.it

Mangialonga

Pontedera, Sunday May 22, 2011
La Mangia… longa (play on words with the words marcia, march, and mangia, to eat, in marcialonga, marcelónghe) is a long walk dedicated to the local food and drinks. The walk will take participants through hills and villages in the Pontedera area.
Participants will depart from the Valdera Equitazione “Lo Scoiattolo” horseback riding center, will stop in Treggiaia at the Church of the Madonna di Ripaia and in Montecastello and then will return to “Lo Scoiattolo”.
At each one of these destinations participants will taste a traditional dish so that by the end of the walk they will have had a full meal accompanied by local wines of the Valdera region.
Moreover, at 9.30am it is possible to participate in the event “Aspettando la Mangia….longa – L’appetito vien camminando…” (literally, “waiting for the Mangia…longa – Appetite grows with eating”), a short 5km walk in the hills around Treggiaia (also starting from the Lo Scoiattolo Centre).
Meeting point: “Lo Scoiattolo” di Treggiaia, a large parking lot is available.
Departures: 11.20am, 11.40am, 12.00pm, 12.20pm, 12.40 pm (groups of max 100 people)
Fee:
Adults € 20,00. Children (6 to 10 y.o.) € 10,00. Children of 5 y.o.and younger: free of charge.
Reservations are accepted from 4 April to 14 May.
Info:
Ufficio Turistico Pontedera
tel. 0587 53354
ufficioturistico@comune.pontedera.pi.it – www.comune.pontedera.pi.it

Palio dei Barchini

Castelfranco di Sotto, Sunday May 29, 2011
The tradition of the Palio dei Barchini con le ruote (literally, the Palio of small boats on wheels) stems from the desire to revive the old rivalry among the local sandmen who, on important occasions, used to compete on their small boats in the river Arno. The present palio, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, is a modern recreation of the old challenge and it is held on unique “boats on wheels” “sailed” by two rowers… on the road.
Each boat represents one of the four village neighbourhoods or contrada (San Pietro a Vigesimo, San Michele in Caprugnana, San Bartolomeo a Paterno and San Martino in Catiana), named after the churches of the four ancient medieval hamlets.
The Palio takes place in the afternoon and is preceded in the morning by a parade in period costume with musicians, flag wavers and a different theme every year.
Moreover, there are many satellite events to entertain visitors to the village on the days which precede and follow the Palio, among which a smaller version of the Palio, called il Palio Rosa, a tug-of-war competition and a medieval dinner.
This year’s dates: May 29, 25th Palio dei Barchini con le Ruote; June 26, a special Palio on the occasion of the Holiday of Corpus Domini like in 1987, when the Palio was organised for the first time.
Info
Comune di Castelfranco di Sotto
www.comune.castelfranco-di-sotto.pi.it
Comitato Palio dei Barchini con le Ruote
info@paliodeibarchini.it – www.paliodeibarchini.it

Cantine Aperte (Open Cellars)

Terricciola, Sunday May 29,2011
www.comune.terricciola.pi.it

Bagno Sotto Le Stelle (A Bath under the Stars)

Casciana Terme, from June 3, 2011
www.comune.cascianaterme.pi.it

Urban Trekking

Pontedera, Sunday June 4, 2011
www.comune.pontedera.pi.it

Giugno Pisano (June Celebrations in Pisa)

Pisa
1 – 8 – 15 – 22 – 29 June 2011: Night lights in the churches of Pisa
Special night opening of the churches of Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri, San Sisto, San Pietro in Vinculis and Santa Cristina(9pm-12am).
From 1 to 26 July 2011: Donne d’Italia. La metà dell’unità
The exhibit hosted by Palazzo Blu is dedicated to outstanding women on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of the Unification of Italy and will be open every night until 10pm from Monday to Friday and until 11pm on Saturdays and Sundays.
June 16, 2011: Luminara di San Ranieri.
Special jubilee edition celebrating the 850th anniversary of the death of the Patron Saint of the City of Pisa.
17 June 2011: Palio di San Ranieri
From 17 June: night opening of the Leaning Tower and of the Monumental Cemetery in Piazza dei Miracoli.
25 June 2011: Gioco del Ponte

Il Mare nel Bicchiere (The Sea in your Glass)

Various coastal towns, from June 2, 2011
Aperitifs on the waterfront of the coastal towns of the Pisa province: Marina di Pisa, Tirrenia and Calambrone.

Museo Arti e Mestieri

Castelnuovo Val di Cecina, Saturday June 11, 2011
Inauguration of the Museo delle Arti e dei Mestieri della Toscana (Museum of the crafts and trades of Tuscany) in Sasso Pisano
www.comunecastelnuovovdc.it

Concert

Certosa di Calci, Saturday June 18, 2011

Notte Bianca (The White Night)

Pontedera, Saturday June 18, 2011
www.comune.pontedera.pi.it

Notte Rossa (The Red Night)

Volterra, Saturday June 25, 2011
www.volterratur.it

Notte Bianca (The White Night)

Terricciola, Saturday July 9, 2011
www.comune.terricciola.pi.it

Musicastrada

From July 17, in many towns of the Province of Pisa.
28 free concerts in the most beautiful towns of the Province of Pisa. A month-long journey through this territory rich in traditions, folklore and emotions.
The full program is available at www.musicastrada.it

Teatro del Silenzio 2011 – Bravo China

Lajatico, Thursday July 21, 2011
The 2011 edition will have a special flavour, because Teatro del Silenzio and its Honorary President, Maestro Andrea Bocelli, have enthusiastically accepted the proposal of the Ambassador of the People’s Republic of China and will host “Bravo China“.
“Bravo China” is a show in which internationally acclaimed Chinese artists meet the most renowned interpreters of the host country in the fields of “bel canto”, ballet and pop music to create an exceptional performance which fosters an outstanding convergence of cultural and artistic traditions from two far-off countries such as China and Italy, bringing them closer on this occasion of this unique appointment at the Teatro del Silenzio. The past 9 editions have touched the 5 continents, including venues such as Hollywood, Rio de Janeiro the Acropolis in Athens and the Kremlin in Moscow.
The Italian cast includes the violinist Uto Ughi, the Etoile of the Opéra Garnier of Paris Eleonora Abbagnato, and the flautist Andrea Griminelli.
Tickets will be on sale from March 29, on the website: www.fourone.it
From April 4, tickets will be available from authorized online stores such as: www.vivaticket.it and www.ticketone.it .
Info:
www.teatrodelsilenzio.it

Calici di Stelle

Terricciola, Wednesday August 10, 2011
www.comune.terricciola.pi.it

Palio di San Rocco – Veglia Francigena

San Miniato, Monday August 15, 2011
www.cittadisanminiato.it, www.comune.san-miniato.pi.it

A.D. 1398

Volterra, 21 and 28 August 2011
Grand recollection of the glorious past of Volterra: fiery knights on their horses, proud noblemen, beautiful ladies, craftsmen and merchants, peasants and commoners, flag wavers and bowmen, musicians and minstrels will bring the medieval times back to life in the beautiful town.
www.volterratur.it

San Genesio – The City of Children

Casciana Terme, Monday August 22, 2011
The community of Casciana Terme has celebrated Saint Genesio, friend and patron of children, for over 50 years,. For three days, children take charge of the town through the Mayor’s symbolic gift of the keys to the town to the Lord Chamberlain of the Kingdom of Children, interpreted by a local child. Ciambellano, the Italian word for Chamberlain, is also the name of the traditional cake which celebrates this occasion: a ring-shaped cake filled with candied fruit and raisins.
Casciana is closed to traffic for the entire duration of the festival and the centre is “invaded” by cheerful children: the “Land of Toys” comes to life, with street shows, clowns, competitions, book stalls and workshops. www.comune.cascianaterme.pi.it

Walking Festival

Parco di Migliarino, San Rossore, Massaciuccoli, from September 3, 2011
Step by step to gain time. A sequence of slow movements which assume a deeper meaning thanks to the extraordinary set that hosts and guides them. An itinerary on an ideal map which is not only a geographical but also an emotional space.
In the protected environments of the parks, the Walking Festival brings a multitude of events to the 6 main Nature Reserves in Tuscany.
www.tuscanywalkingfestival.it, www.parcosanrossore.org

Today, I am going to very quickly present the different areas that people can visit in northern Tuscany.

I should repeat that of course, there are common features, but there are also very distinctive characteristics that make each one of these areas unique and clearly distinguishable from the other ones.

Here is a map of Tuscany with the main cities of the northern area of the region.

Here is some information about the main tourist areas. I already talked about Chianti, Val di Cecina, and Val di Cornia in my post on southern Tuscany, but, as they extend over the heart of the region, they obviously stretch into its northern part too.

Val d’Elsa

Val d’Elsa was also mentioned in my previous article, but there are many pretty towns that are in northern Tuscany so I thought it would be best to mention it again here. I am thinking of lovely Certaldo, Castelfiorentino and Gambassi Terme.

(Certaldo by Dottorpeni)

Val di Cecina

This is the Valdorcia of Northern Tuscany. An area that is known to few travelers to Tuscany, and yet it boasts spectacular landscapes, characterized by gentle rolling hills and small hamlets such as Montecastelli and Castelnuovo Val di Cecina. The beautiful Volterra is in this area, but farther south.

(Montecatini Val di Cecina by ObbiettivoPeperino)

Valdarno

A large diverse area along the river Arno. The best part is in my opinion in the Pisa area, with the beautiful countryside around the hilltop town of San Miniato. The town itself is very pretty, with a large Cathedral, an imposing seminary, and a nice town hall.

(San Miniato by Ezioman)

Mugello

Mugello is north of Florence, on the Apennines. It’s dotted by small towns and famous for the many medieval pievi, small parish churches in the countryside. The area is also famous for the main speedway in Italy: Autodromo del Mugello.

(Mugello, photo by Bosphoreion)

Florence

Of course Florence needs no introduction. Near Florence, Fiesole is a nice place too see. The rest of the surrounding area is mostly residential and industrial, so no point in venturing in the suburbs… unless you want to go shopping at Ikea!

(Florence, photo by Rosino)

Prato and Pistoia

The area is quite industrialized and densely populated, but the two cities are remarkable. They have beautiful city centers. Prato is famous for the textile industry, while Pistoia is famous for the greenhouses. It also has a popular zoo and not far from it, a popular destination is Collodi, the home town of Pinocchio’s author. Montecatini Terme is a famous spa town: the art nouveau spa center is very beautiful. The old village, Montecatini Alto is really cute too.

(Prato by Rob Meredith)

Valle del Serchio

The valley along the river Serchio north of Lucca. This is a very beautiful area, with small villages and larger towns along the river, small bridges, stone mills and many old paper factories. Interesting sites in this area include Barga, Borgo a Mozzano and the famous Devil’s Bridge, Bagni di Lucca and the nature reserve called Orrido di Botri.

(Barga by Bill Anderson)

Abetone

This is the second highest mountain in Tuscany and a very popular ski resort. It’s on the border with Emilia Romagna, in the province of Pistoia. It’s quite well-known in Italy and it is the perfect place to bring together a vacation on the snow and a holiday in Tuscany.

(Abetone by Lo.Tangelini)

Lucca

A beautiful city with the city center entirely enclosed within perfectly preserved city walls where people can bike, take a walk and relax. It is just beautiful in any season, but my favourite season in Lucca is the fall, when all the trees along the walls turn yellow. The area is also known for the beautiful ville lucchesi, splendid mansions in the countryside.

(Lucca by Dvdbramhall)

Garfagnana

The Garfagnana is the mountain area north of Lucca, with famous towns such as Castelnuovo di Garfagnana. It is home to a nature park called Parco dell’Orecchiella and it is famous for its chestnuts. There are many small hamlets immersed in the woods which have been abandoned and for this reason Garfagnana  is a walker’s paradise.

(Garfagnana by Flickrc)

Lunigiana

Lunigiana is the area along the river Magra. It is cut through the ancient Via Francigena and it is one of the lesser known areas of Tuscany, yet still a fascinating one. It’s on the Appennines on the border with Emilia Romagna and Liguria. It’s a land of old countryside churches and legends.

(Lunigiana by nigelfj)

Massa and Carrara

Massa and Carrara, famous for their marble and for the Apuan Alps. Two cities overlooking the coast of the Versilia. The cities are neat, and definitely off the beaten path. The marble caves are worth a visit: Michelangelo used it for his masterpieces and it’s famous throughout the world.

(Marble caves near Carrara, by Artnbarb)

Versilia

The Versilia is the most popular beach area in Tuscany, but it is also very interesting for its landscape. There are mountains right behind the coastline. The most popular towns are Viareggio, famous for its carnival, Pietrasanta, and Forte dei Marmi. They are very lively in the summer and many VIPs choose these destinations for their beach holidays.

(Versilia by Luigi9555)

Pisa

Pisa and its surroundings. The city of Pisa is mostly famous for the Leaning Tower, but it has much more than that to offer. The best time of the year to visit the city is June. Besides Piazza dei Miracoli the city boasts many interesting monuments. Just outside the city, the Chartreuse of Calci and the Abbey of San Piero a Grado are worth seeing. The area is rich in hot springs too.

(Basilica di San Piero a Grado, Pisa)

Livorno

Livorno is a large industrial city. The city center is not bad, and it has been recently restored so as to be more appealing to visitors. The American market area is neat. Just outside the city, the Monastery of Montenero is worth a visit. There are breathtaking views from the top of the hill. The coast south of the city is also impressive, with a rugged coastline and secluded coves.

(Livorno by swamp dragon)

Pisa is an excellent base in northern Tuscany because it’s an important  transportation hub. You do not need a car to visit the major sites. Of course if you want to venture up into the Garfagnana, Lunigiana or Val di Cecina area, then you will need a car, like in most rural areas of Tuscany. But there are plenty of places that you can reach from Pisa by public transportation and if you want to rent a car for the day, all you have to do is to go to the airport. Besides, the city is really underrated: if you dare venture away from the Leaning Tower, far from being a tourist trap, Pisa is a University city, with many lively locals, plenty of restaurants and many cultural events. I write about Pisa often here on the blog, because we work in the city so we spend weekdays there. Of course we also have a special place to recommend… Behind the Tower, our vacation rental near the Leaning Tower of Pisa! Check it out!

Of course, there are common features, but there are also very distinctive characteristics that make each one of these areas unique and clearly distinguishable from the other ones.

Here is the map of Tuscany again, with the area where my village is marked in white, to show its location relative to the other destinations. It quite a good home base in southern Tuscany, I believe, because it is a short drive away from many different areas of southern Tuscany, so that visiting most of the most popular sites takes only a 30 to 60 minute drive. And you can always go back to a non-touristy, quieter village in the evening and make yourself at home in Tuscany!

Like last time, I have marked down some of the most popular destinations, so that people can have some reference points.

And here is some information on each area!

Val di Chiana. It is the area where a beautiful city like Arezzo, and famous hilltop towns like Cortona, Montepulciano, Chianciano Terme and Chiusi are located. It borders with Umbria and is characterised by breath-taking views.

(Piazza Grande in Montepulciano – Photo by zu78)

Crete Senesi. One of the most spectacular and most representative areas of Tuscany. Famous for truffles and for beautiful towns such as Asciano, Buonconvento, San Giovanni d’Asso, Trequanda and Rapolano Terme. Other attractions include thermal baths, art sites (e.g. Jean-Paul Philippe’s Site Transitoire), and the beautiful Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore.

Valdorcia, the green heart of the region and the place you want to go to to see picture-perfect Tuscany. Home to the hilltowns of Montalcino, Pienza, San Quirico d’Orcia, Bagni San Filippo, and Castiglion d’Orcia; to the Abbey of Sant’Antimo famous for the Gregorian chants; to one of the most popular Tuscan wines, Brunello di Montalcino; to beautiful castles and mills. This is the area of the rolling hills, of the open countryside, of the stone houses dotting the countryside. Contrary to what many believe, the Valdorcia is shared by the provinces of Siena and Grosseto.

(Pienza)

The city of Siena and immediate surroundings. Siena deserves a mention on its own. It’s such a spectacular place. It is also the city of the very famous horse race called the Palio di Siena and of the most traditional Christmas sweets in Tuscany: ricciarelli and panforte!

Val di Merse. The wildest area of the province of Siena, with remote villages, forests, rivers and the beautiful Abbey of San Galgano, cradle of the Arthurian legends and home to the original sword in the stone. Val di Merse is a paradise for hikers, horseback riders and cyclists. And if you happen to be in the area in summer, you should not miss the Opera at the abbey.

Chianti. The most popular area of Tuscany, famous for its wine, for small picturesque villages such as Greve in Chianti, Gaiole, Radda and for castles such as Meleto, Brolio and more. The Chianti area covers parts of the provinces of Siena, Florence and Pisa, but the most popular part of it is the region called Chianti Classico, between Siena and Florence.

(Chianti – Photo by TonyDuckles)

Val d’Elsa has some densely populated areas and other areas that are essentially rural. It boasts famous towns such as Certaldo, Castelfiorentino, Gambassi Terme, which are actually in northern Tuscany, but I have included it here because it also encompasses areas such as the “montagnola senese” (literally “the sienese hill-land”) with villages such as Sovicille and towns like Colle Val d’Elsa, famous its crystal, and the popular villages of San Gimignano and Monteriggioni.

(Monteriggioni – Photo by Paolo Sammicheli)

Casentino. It is a mountain area, mostly woodland. It’s quite wild, and very well preserved since the Middle Ages. For its quiet and beauty this area is almost mystical. It boasts famous hermitages such as Eremo di Camaldoli and Saint Francis’ La Verna. It is also a land of pievi, castles, and medieval villages such as Poppi. A large nature park preserves the forest.

(Parco delle Foreste Casentinesi – Photo by Sheilasan)

The inland hills of the Maremma, also known as Alta Maremma (Upper Maremma). My home village, Civitella Marittima, and our vacation rental in Tuscany, Casina di Rosa, are here. The area is mostly rural and has traits of the Siena area and the Valdorcia and traits of the Maremma. It is very beautiful, a nature paradise with small hilltop hamlets, olive groves and the famous Petriolo hot springs.

(Photo by Gianluca Giannone)

Monte Amiata. The highest mountain in Tuscany: very different from any other place in the region, with chestnut tree woods, mountain villages and towns such as Arcidosso, Santa Fiora, Castel del Piano, Castiglion d’Orcia and the pretty abbey town of Abbadia San Salvadore.

(Arcidosso – Photo by Carlo Tardani)

Colline Metallifere. Also part of the Upper Maremma, this area has very distinctive features and it has been inhabited since the Antiquity because it was very rich in minerals. Massa Marittima is located in the area and it is a real gem.

Maremma. Famous for the unspoilt coastline boasting both rocky and sandy coasts, pretty coastal towns like Castiglione della Pescaia and Talamone, luxury beach areas such as Argentario, a large nature park (Parco naturale della Maremma) and several Etruscan archaeological sites. It is also home to a popular wine: Morellino di Scansano. The Tuscan Archipelago, with the Isle of Giglio, the Isle of Elba and Giannutri, faces the coast of the Maremma.

Area del Tufo. The heart of the ancient Etruscan empire, with towns such as Pitigliano, Manciano, Magliano, Sovana, Sorano and the famous spas in Saturnia. There are many archaeological sites and the breath-taking Vie Cave, ancient roads carved in the stone. Pitigliano also has a ancient Synagogue.

(Pitigliano – Photo by Riccardo08)

Val di Cornia – Maremma Livornese. Val di Cornia includes beautiful towns such as Suvereto and Monterotondo Marittimo which are further north but also the famous Etruscan coast (Costa degli Etruschi). Ferries to the Isle of Elba leave from the town of Piombino. A very interesting place is the archaeological park in Populonia and the walk to the near cove called Golfo di Baratti.

(Golfo di Baratti seen from the Castle of Populonia – Photo by AlessandraElle)

Val di Cecina. This is the Valdorcia of Northern Tuscany. An area that is known to few travelers to Tuscany, and yet it boasts spectacular landscapes, characterized by gentle rolling hills and small hamlets such as Montecastelli and Castelnuovo Val di Cecina. It extends mostly in Nothern Tuscany but I have included it because it also boasts beautiful Volterra, which, contrary to what most people think, it is actually not in the province of Siena but in the province of Pisa.

(Volterra – Photo by Thomas Willemsen)

A final recommendation: take it slow! There is plenty to keep you busy for two weeks or more. You won’t be able to see everything anyway so choose according to your tastes, and remember to take enough time to actually experience Tuscany and its lifestyle and not just “see” it passing by its major landmarks.

Happy planning!

5. Max il Cuoiaio, Via Domenico Cavalca 57, Pisa. The shop itself is nothing special, but the items they sell are great. They specialize in leather goods: bags, wallets, purses, belts, etc. All handmade. Really nice presents.

4. Chocolate shop De Bondt, Lungarno Pacinotti 5. This shop sells the locally produced chocolate “De Bondt”. Delicious!

3. Coin, Corso Italia 118. It’s a chain of department stores. They sell clothes, jewelery, stationery, housewares. Their linens are amazing (and expensive).  My favourite items are the products by I Cartai della Corona. Just beautiful.

2. Graziani Oggetti, Via Benedetto Croce, 52. They are the official Sia store in Pisa. So beautiful… If you like decapé and romantic objects, this is your store.

1. The most beautiful shop in Pisa, in my opinion, is no doubt the brand new Antichi Vizi (Via Benedetto Croce 30). It sells “stuff” for the house. The owners rented a liberty apartment and furnished it with all the amazing stuff they sell. A great idea that deserves a little video…

And of course the Christmas Market has just opened under the Logge!

I also need to keep up with the precedent I set last year with these spooky Tuscany stories for Halloween… so here we go…

We are spending Halloween and All Saints’ Day in Pisa this year. So I guess the best I can do is to tell you about the ghosts in Pisa… (are you scared yet?!).

Apparently, Pisa is a very haunted city. Some people say that every once in a while, at the National Archive on the Lungarno, the noise of a horse galloping up the stairs is heard. It is said to be the ghost of Lord Byron, who lived in this building in 1820-1821 (Pisa was very popular with English poets in the 19th century). The legend says that he would climb the stairs riding his horse and that he spent hours writing in the dark underground rooms. The building is Palazzo Toscanelli, a white building with a 16th century façade ascribed to Michelangelo himself.

Another spooky place in Pisa is the quarter of San Francesco, and most precisely the area around the old church of Sant’Andrea, now a theatre. Over the years, several people have reported having seen, late at night, a man in medieval clothes, wandering around in the dark and narrow alleys of the area and finally disappearing inside the church through the closed door. This spooky presence is believed to be Pietro della Vigna‘s ghost, a diplomat, jurist and poet who lived here in the 12th century and committed suicide in the church after he failed defending his master from accusations of heresy.

You can read about more ghost stories in the Quarter of San Francesco.

The library of the Scuola Normale Superiore in Piazza dei Cavalieri is also known for being a spooky place. In the 80′s some students reported hearing constant crying coming through a wall. The mystery has never been solved, but people believe that was the cry of Count Ugolino della Gherardesca‘s children. Once Pisa’s Podestà, he was imprisoned in the Gualandi Tower by the Archbishop after being accused of treachery. The latter is said to have thrown the keys to the prison into the river Arno, and left the prisoners to starve. Dante tells the terrible story of Count Ugolino in his Divine Comedy: driven insane with starvation, he is said to have dined upon his children’s flesh. When their bodies were found, they were buried in the Church of San Francesco, and moved to the Gherardeschi family chapel only at the beginning of last century.

The Count himself apparently likes to come back to Pisa every once in a while… at the beginning of the last century, two women were almost scared to death by a ghostly encounter with the Count on the Lungarno. They said they saw a man in torn clothes, with evil eyes, pulling at his hair at the entrance to the garden of what is today the beautiful building housing the “Fiumi e Fossi” offices. That is the only garden opening onto the Lungarno and on those grounds once stood the tower house of Count Ugolino. The house was destroyed after his imprisonment and the ground was cursed, so that over the centuries nobody has ever had the guts to build there again. The two ladies reported that the ghost was very displeased to see his house had been destroyed.

For more spooky places to see in the city, check our guide to Pisa.

Happy Halloween!!!