I haven’t been blogging very regularly this month, because, as most of you who read my blog on a regular basis know, we have just had a baby: Liam! He has certainly turned our lives upside down, but we are finally finding new rhythms and adjusting to our new existence as parents.

2011 has been a great year for us. We have welcomed Liam into our lives, I got tenure, we bought a new car, we had a fabulous season with our vacation rentals in Tuscany and, thanks to that, we made several new friends!

There were some sad moments. We lost some dear ones, who are and will be certainly missed. But life is like that: it’s made of great moment and very sad ones. I am simply very thankful that I have amazing people around me to make the “ride” so pleasant.

Let’s hope 2012 is a serene year too, both for us and for all of you who are reading this post.We have much to look forward too!

This year, we will spend New Year’s Eve at home, trying to keep our eyes open until midnight! As usual, there were many interesting events that we could have attended in Pisa, or Siena.

New Year’s Eve in Pisa will see music in the squares of the city: a great street party and fireworks. In Siena, there will be the usual concert in Piazza del Campo. We won’t be drinking spumante, but we might be celebrate with a bottle of milk in our hands!

To you all, a very very happy new year! We hope it brings our way many new interesting people and, hopefully, some old friends too!

Halloween and the All Saints’ Day Weekend are here already!

I’ve just realized it’s that time of the year already… Halloween or the All Saints’ Day long weekend! To me, it usually marks the first holiday of the holiday season and the beginning of the olive harvest, but this year it has arrived so quickly upon us that I am somewhat disoriented.

First of all, I am on my maternity leave: this means that I didn’t go back to teaching in September, so I was not counting days to the first long weekend as I usually do. It also means that we have spent over two months in Civitella, except for this past week when we came back to Pisa and time has literally flown by since we’ve been here.

Second, because I am so pregnant, I can’t help with the olive harvest anyway this year, so I didn’t need to organize my schedule so as to be able to participate. Plus, this year the fall has been so warm (it was still 25°C/77°F in Pisa yesterday…) and dry that we my parents had to start picking early, because olives are just falling from the trees.

Third, I had a big job interview last week (that’s why we are in Pisa) and I didn’t really think of much else up until then… And when I finally had the time and energy to start thinking about something else… well, we realized our baby was supposed to arrive in a month and we hadn’t bought anything yet!!! So we dedicated this past weekend to baby shopping… and we were shocked by the outrageous prices of baby stuff!!! People are out of their minds!!! Being our first child, we have nothing… and we also had no idea what we might need (I know… we must be the worst parents-to-be ever!!). So we did a lot of window shopping and then went and bought the most expensive stuff online, where you can really get great deals…

On presents for our baby and other generous thoughts…

To all those of you who have generously asked us about presents, we would like to say that we really don’t want anybody to feel obliged to send anything. Presents are neither required nor expected. Your loving thoughts are more than enough for us.

However, since some friends and family members have asked repeatedly, we have created a wish list online which is more of a “memorandum” for us than a true wishlist. You can find it here (the name is “gloriamarcel”). We would like to thank you all in advance, and to repeat once again that you don’t need to send us anything, really. And that we are just as happy if you contribute something to the fund for the people who suffered the terrible flood in Cinque Terre and Northern Tuscany last week. Their children are certainly in more need than ours at the moment.

A traditional Tuscan recipe for an alternative “treat”

Anyway, this morning I suddenly realized that it was Halloween when I saw lots of pumpkins outside the local food stores. That’s funny because pumpkins are certainly in season (and we have already eaten an enormous amount – I also need to thank Alexandra and Tommaso for the delicious one they gave us last week!), but the habit of decorating with pumpkins is not really in our tradition. I certainly remember carving pumpkins as a child, but not necessarily on Halloween.

What really reminded me that it’s the All Saints’ Weekend was a phone call from my mother asking me if I wanted some of the Schiaccia dei Santi that my grandmother has made. Of course!!! That is the typical dessert we celebrate with. We make  Schiaccia dei Santi (a type of focaccia)  and Pane dei Santi (a type of bread). They are typical of Siena and some areas of  the province of Grosseto.

They both include more or less the same ingredients but the “schiaccia” is thin, crispy and a bit greasier, whereas the “pane” has the consistency of a loaf of bread, even though it’s much sweeter. The peculiarity is that the dough is enhanced with walnuts, raisins and dry figs: essentially all the “poor” ingredients that are usually available at the end of the summer.

Now I can’t wait to be back home to have some!

If you want to try the traditional recipe of the Pane dei Santi (All Saints’ Day Bread – also known as Pane co’ Santi in Siena) here it is!

Ingredients

• 400g  walnuts
• 250g olive oil
• 50g brewer’s yeast
• 400g warm water
• 1kg all purpose flour
• 250g raisins
• 200g of dry figs
• 10tbs sugar
• 3tsp salt
• 3tsp pepper
• 1 egg yolk (to brush the surface of the loaf)

Sauté the walnuts with some olive oil in a small pan for a couple of minutes and let them cool down. Melt the brewer’s yeast in warm water.

In a large bowl, mix flour, sugar, salt, raisins, walnuts, olive oil and pepper. Add the yeast mix. Mix until you can make a ball with the dough. Cover and let it sit in the bowl for at least 6 hours.

When the dough has risen, cut it in 4 to 6 parts and shape them as you like (either as a ball or in an elliptical shape). Make a cross-shaped cut on the top of each one and let them rise for one more hour.

Brush with whipped egg yolk and bake for 30/35 minutes at 180°C (350°F).

Let the loaves cool down and enjoy!  You can store them in paper bread bags and they last for days.

You can eat them on All Saint’s Day or give your Halloween a Tuscan flavour!

Happy Halloween and Happy All Saints’ Day!

(Photo by Frankekko)

(Photo by Frankekko)

The party starts in the late afternoon when all the students and the people from Pisa start to fill the streets and the squares to see the market stalls and to gather for dinner with their friends. The restaurants, bars and squares of the center are crowded; street musicians play on the bridges; churches and monuments are open even after dark and cards are distributed in the street so that people can vote for the best decoration. Palazzo Blu usually wins, and again this year they have prepared stunning biancheria in the shape of many fans.

(Photo by amanda_was_here)

(Photo by Giuseppe Luigi di Pace)

(Photo by David J. Marshall)

The lampposts of the Lungarno have been decorated with flag shaped biancheria, to be lit by red, green and white candles to celebrate 150th anniversary of Italy.

When the sun goes down, the center of Pisa takes on a really magical atmosphere. You can hear people laughing, the noisy generators of the kiosks selling porchetta and brigidini, traditional sweets with anisette, and people playing in the streets.

(Photos by Francesco Collina)

At 11pm, the fireworks start.

(Photo by Pablo Tenorio)

(Photo by Zuorio)

Up until a few years ago, they were launched from the cittadella medicea and from its tower. Over the last couple of years though, given that you could only see them from one section of the Lungarno and it was always incredibly crowded, they have started shooting the fireworks from the two ends of the Lungarno so that the show is really impressive and it can be enjoyed from everywhere along the Lungarno. This year they will be shot from four boats placed on four good spots on the river Arno. It will be really spectacular.

(Photo by androiGo)

After the fireworks, many people leave the city. Most people, though, remain in the city until dawn, moving from the Lungarno towards the surrounding squares to join in the street parties and in the parties organized by bars and pubs. In many squares there are bands playing live music.

(Photo by zufus)

(Photo by John Soqquadro)

My favourite spot to see the fireworks and spend the night is Argini e Margini, a bar on the river bank. Up until last year not many people knew how cool it was to see the fireworks from the river, but I expect this year to be very crowded.

Unlike many other festivals in famous cities in Tuscany, La Luminara is not very famous, even though it would certainly deserve to be. Tonight a UNESCO ambassador will be a guest of the city council, who have applied so that the festival can be recognized as UNESCO Wold Heritage Event.

The celebrations of La Luminara are just one of the many events organized in June in Pisa. Giugno Pisano is a full month of celebrations, concerts, exhibits and more. Tomorrow, June 17 and the actual Patron Saint’s Day, the  city will celebrate again with a historical regatta on the river Arno. This year it will be at night for the first time, with more candle light displays along the lungarno.

If you are planning to visit Pisa next year, remember to plan your trip around this events, because they really deserve it.

“The key date is June 16, with the Luminara di San Ranieri: over 100,000 candles are carefully placed in smooth, transparent glasses and hung on white wooden frames arranged to emphasize the outlines of the buildings, bridges, churches and towers that overlook the Lungarni. This year, a solemn edition will close the jubilee year of the patron saint of Pisa, in the 850th anniversary of his death.

Then, on the night of Saturday June 25, the traditional Gioco del Ponte, the historical event divided into two separate, but equally significant, moments: the Historical Procession on the Lungarni, with over 700 characters, and the “battle” staged on the Ponte di Mezzo. Here, the teams from the city’s two rival districts (Tramontana and Mezzogiorno) put their strength to the test by pushing a heavy cart in opposite directions in a heated moment  of fierce competition.

But the Giugno Pisano has a full thirty days of events to offer, with three protagonists: the city, its river and the sea.”

Events in the center of Pisa

The lights of the night in the churches of Pisa

Every Wednesday, from 9 to 11 pm, four of the most beautiful churches of the city will be open at night: Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri, San Sisto, San Pietro in Vinculis and Santa Cristina.

Celebrating the patron saint: Saint Ranieri

On the night of June 16, the Luminara along the river Arno, and the day after, June 17, the Palio di San Ranieri, (the Historical Regatta of San Ranieri): four boats, each representing one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods — Santa Maria, San Francesco, San Martino and Sant’Antonio — go head-to-head on the waters of the river Arno in a boat race, a legacy of the tradition of the Maritime Republic of Pisa.

(Photos of Frankekko)

Women of Italy

Palazzo Blu hosts the exhibition “Women of Italy. Half the Unity” untill June 26 (free admission). The exhibition, set up for the 150th anniversary of the Unification of Italy, tells the story of the country as seen through the eyes and vicissitudes of its most representative women. Open until 10 pm (Saturday and Sunday until 11 pm).

Piazza dei Miracoli

From June 17, night opening of the Leaning Tower and the Monumental Cemetery in the Piazza dei Miracoli.

(Photo by Tomcraft2xlc)

In the afternoon of Saturday, June 4, 11 and 18, there will be a guided tour of the Piazza entitled “Art and History of a great Maritime Republic”.  Further information: Tel. 050 822207, www.pisaguide.com

Guided Tours

An opportunity to visit Pisa on foot:

• Walking in Pisa (Monday, Thursday and Saturday, 10.45 am).
• The tour of Pisa by night on Friday evening. (Tel. +39 320 9154975)
• The Galilean Tour, every Saturday morning, an exciting walk around Galileo Galilei’s hometown will illustrate the human story and great discoveries of the founder of modern science. (Tel. +39 050 822207)
• Water paths: a journey amid sources and springs. Three itineraries, three days to walk along the water paths from the mountains to the city. (Tel. +39 320 9154975),

The flavours of Giugno Pisano

A chance to discover recipes and typical products of the true Pisan cuisine, thanks to a special menu “Giugno Pisano”, available from Monday to Thursday in 14 restaurants in Pisa and surroundings.

The Arno River

The river Arno is the second protagonist of the Giugno Pisano with Argini e Margini, a restaurant and wine bar along the river bank, with its menu of drinks and good music.  (My favourite place in Pisa! See our evenings at Argini e Margini)

Cruises on the Arno offer visitors an unusual view of Pisa (June 2, 5, 10, 19 and 29 at 9.30 pm). For information +39 050 530101 – visitesr@tin.it

The Tyrrhenian Sea

Starting from June 2 (every Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 8 pm), the bathing establishments of Marina di Pisa, Tirrenia and Calambrone will offer the most agreeable, amusing and intriguing entertainment with a series of evenings entitled Il mare nel bicchiere (The sea in a glass).

(Photo by domestictimes)

The Giugno Pisano 2011 will be a special month in the province of Pisa too.

• From June 3 (every Wednesday) the thermal baths Casciana Terme will be open at night
• Saturday, June 4, urban trekking  “Gust’arte” in Pontedera.
• Saturday, June 11, opening of the Museum of  the Arts and Crafts of Tuscany in Castelnuovo Val di Cecina.
• Saturday, June 18, a concert in the beautiful monumental Certosa of Calci.
• Saturday, June 18, the Notte Bianca in Pontedera.
• Saturday, June 25, the Notte Rossa in Volterra

You might also like to read…

• Low cost wine tours near Pisa
• Some summer events in Pisa
• Pisa awaits il Gioco del Ponte
• Pisa is getting ready
• I love Pisa in June

I have just received the newsletter from the tourist office in Pisa with a list of some of the events that will liven up the city and its territory! The list is not exhaustive but these should be the main events.

Volterra: The Leaning Tower in Alabaster

From April 20 to December 31, 2011
Visitors can admire the extraordinary alabaster copy of the Leaning Tower of Pisa at the Sala Ex Ospedale Civile in Piazza San Giovanni in Volterra. The sculpture is 2.4m tall and has been created by the members of the Arte in Bottega craftsmen’s guild. The statue is a unique masterpiece which displays the outstanding skillfulness of the alabaster craftsmen in Volterra and an exceptional attention to detail.
www.torrependenteinalabastro.com

A Night at the Spa

San Giuliano Terme, May 5-12-19-26, 2011
From 8pm until midnight: thermal pools, sauna, Turkish bath, relaxation areas, aperitifs and light snacks for an exclusive and unusual evening. 35 euros per person. Reservation is required.
www.bagnidipisa.com

Maggio in Musica

Calci, May 6-13-20-27, 2011
The Propositura di Calci, Stefano Messerini music school, the Corale Santa Cecilia, the Filarmonica G. Verdi, with the sponsorship of the Town Council of Calci and of the Unità Pastorale della Valgraziosa, present “Maggio in Musica”: a series of concerts held in Calci at the ancient Romanesque Pieve (May 6 and 27 at 9:15pm) and at the Valgraziosa Theatre (May13 and 20, at 9:15pm).
Entrance is free.
Info:
almanaccodicalci.blogspot.com

A Walk in the Italian Risorgimento

Pontedera, Montopoli in Val d’Arno, Santa Maria a Monte, Sunday May 15, 2011
A walk through historical landmarks in the Pisan Valdarno to discover the mansions which once belonged to some of the protagonists of the Italian Risorgimento. The walk celebrates the 150th anniversary of the unification of the country.
Program:

• 2pm – Departure from the parking lot of the Cineplex complex in Pontedera
• 2.30pm – Montecastello: arrival at the Villa Torrigiani-Malaspina
• 4.00pm – Le Pianora: arrival at the Villa Mayer-Passerin d’Entreves-Scaramucci
• 5.00pm – Marti: arrival at the Villa Majnoni-Baldovinetti
• 6.00pm – Varramista: arrival at Villa Capponi-Farinola-Piaggio (complimentary wine tasting offered by the Varramista winery)

Return to Pontedera between 7.30 and 8.00 pm.
Dinner in the Italian Risorgimento Style
Those who wish to experience a dinner as it would have been at the time of the Italian Risorgomento can join us at the club Il Cavatappi (30 € per person). This walk is made possible by the kindness of the present owners of the historic buildings mentioned who have enthusiastically agreed to open their homes to visitors.
Reservation is required.
Max number of participants: 80
Price for the walk: 10 € to be paid in cash before departure.
Transportation between the various stops of the tour is provided by the City Councils of Pontedera and Santa Maria a Monte.
Info and reservations:
Centro per l’Arte Otello Cirri
Tel. 0587 57282 (from Monday to Friday 10am-12pm)

Festa del Parco

Parco di Migliarino, San Rossore, Massaciuccoli, from May 19 to 29, 2011
11 days rich in events aimed at promoting the Regional Parks of the region and their wildlife and vegetation.
www.parcosanrossore.org

Cortelandia

Castelfranco di Sotto, Saturday May 21, 2011
Two days of walks in the heart of the Cerbaie, through fields and woodlands, on easy trails marked by boards made by the pupils of the local schools and serviced by kiosks serving refreshments.

• Saturday, 21 May: Guided walk through the fields of Villa Campanile and along the ancient trail of the via Francigena (Galleno).
• Sunday 22 May: Guided walk in the forest of Serradigo-Macchione to the eco-museum at Macchione in Orentano.
• On Saturday night participants can participate in a “veglia” (vigil).
• Related events:
• Saturday 21: walk in the oasis of carnivorous plants (ex opera Landini) in Fucecchio (Fi).
• Sunday 22: show dedicated to Tree Climbing and to the use of donkeys for the transportation of firewood, S. Maria a Monte (PI).
• Saturday 21 and Sunday 22: playing in nature: the Robinson Park, S. Croce sull’Arno (PI).

All events are free of charge.
Length of the walks: from 9.00am to 8.00pm
Departure: Villa Campanile, Orentano and Galleno.
Refreshments are not included.
Wear comfortable clothes and shoes suitable for hiking.
Info:
Consorzio Forestale delle Cerbaie
Tel. 0583 23006; cell. 334 8027631;  fax. 0583 238834
cfc@consorzioforestalecerbaie.it – www.consorzioforestalecerbaie.it

Mangialonga

Pontedera, Sunday May 22, 2011
La Mangia… longa (play on words with the words marcia, march, and mangia, to eat, in marcialonga, marcelónghe) is a long walk dedicated to the local food and drinks. The walk will take participants through hills and villages in the Pontedera area.
Participants will depart from the Valdera Equitazione “Lo Scoiattolo” horseback riding center, will stop in Treggiaia at the Church of the Madonna di Ripaia and in Montecastello and then will return to “Lo Scoiattolo”.
At each one of these destinations participants will taste a traditional dish so that by the end of the walk they will have had a full meal accompanied by local wines of the Valdera region.
Moreover, at 9.30am it is possible to participate in the event “Aspettando la Mangia….longa – L’appetito vien camminando…” (literally, “waiting for the Mangia…longa – Appetite grows with eating”), a short 5km walk in the hills around Treggiaia (also starting from the Lo Scoiattolo Centre).
Meeting point: “Lo Scoiattolo” di Treggiaia, a large parking lot is available.
Departures: 11.20am, 11.40am, 12.00pm, 12.20pm, 12.40 pm (groups of max 100 people)
Fee:
Adults € 20,00. Children (6 to 10 y.o.) € 10,00. Children of 5 y.o.and younger: free of charge.
Reservations are accepted from 4 April to 14 May.
Info:
Ufficio Turistico Pontedera
tel. 0587 53354
ufficioturistico@comune.pontedera.pi.it – www.comune.pontedera.pi.it

Palio dei Barchini

Castelfranco di Sotto, Sunday May 29, 2011
The tradition of the Palio dei Barchini con le ruote (literally, the Palio of small boats on wheels) stems from the desire to revive the old rivalry among the local sandmen who, on important occasions, used to compete on their small boats in the river Arno. The present palio, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, is a modern recreation of the old challenge and it is held on unique “boats on wheels” “sailed” by two rowers… on the road.
Each boat represents one of the four village neighbourhoods or contrada (San Pietro a Vigesimo, San Michele in Caprugnana, San Bartolomeo a Paterno and San Martino in Catiana), named after the churches of the four ancient medieval hamlets.
The Palio takes place in the afternoon and is preceded in the morning by a parade in period costume with musicians, flag wavers and a different theme every year.
Moreover, there are many satellite events to entertain visitors to the village on the days which precede and follow the Palio, among which a smaller version of the Palio, called il Palio Rosa, a tug-of-war competition and a medieval dinner.
This year’s dates: May 29, 25th Palio dei Barchini con le Ruote; June 26, a special Palio on the occasion of the Holiday of Corpus Domini like in 1987, when the Palio was organised for the first time.
Info
Comune di Castelfranco di Sotto
www.comune.castelfranco-di-sotto.pi.it
Comitato Palio dei Barchini con le Ruote
info@paliodeibarchini.it – www.paliodeibarchini.it

Cantine Aperte (Open Cellars)

Terricciola, Sunday May 29,2011
www.comune.terricciola.pi.it

Bagno Sotto Le Stelle (A Bath under the Stars)

Casciana Terme, from June 3, 2011
www.comune.cascianaterme.pi.it

Urban Trekking

Pontedera, Sunday June 4, 2011
www.comune.pontedera.pi.it

Giugno Pisano (June Celebrations in Pisa)

Pisa
1 – 8 – 15 – 22 – 29 June 2011: Night lights in the churches of Pisa
Special night opening of the churches of Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri, San Sisto, San Pietro in Vinculis and Santa Cristina(9pm-12am).
From 1 to 26 July 2011: Donne d’Italia. La metà dell’unità
The exhibit hosted by Palazzo Blu is dedicated to outstanding women on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of the Unification of Italy and will be open every night until 10pm from Monday to Friday and until 11pm on Saturdays and Sundays.
June 16, 2011: Luminara di San Ranieri.
Special jubilee edition celebrating the 850th anniversary of the death of the Patron Saint of the City of Pisa.
17 June 2011: Palio di San Ranieri
From 17 June: night opening of the Leaning Tower and of the Monumental Cemetery in Piazza dei Miracoli.
25 June 2011: Gioco del Ponte

Il Mare nel Bicchiere (The Sea in your Glass)

Various coastal towns, from June 2, 2011
Aperitifs on the waterfront of the coastal towns of the Pisa province: Marina di Pisa, Tirrenia and Calambrone.

Museo Arti e Mestieri

Castelnuovo Val di Cecina, Saturday June 11, 2011
Inauguration of the Museo delle Arti e dei Mestieri della Toscana (Museum of the crafts and trades of Tuscany) in Sasso Pisano
www.comunecastelnuovovdc.it

Concert

Certosa di Calci, Saturday June 18, 2011

Notte Bianca (The White Night)

Pontedera, Saturday June 18, 2011
www.comune.pontedera.pi.it

Notte Rossa (The Red Night)

Volterra, Saturday June 25, 2011
www.volterratur.it

Notte Bianca (The White Night)

Terricciola, Saturday July 9, 2011
www.comune.terricciola.pi.it

Musicastrada

From July 17, in many towns of the Province of Pisa.
28 free concerts in the most beautiful towns of the Province of Pisa. A month-long journey through this territory rich in traditions, folklore and emotions.
The full program is available at www.musicastrada.it

Teatro del Silenzio 2011 – Bravo China

Lajatico, Thursday July 21, 2011
The 2011 edition will have a special flavour, because Teatro del Silenzio and its Honorary President, Maestro Andrea Bocelli, have enthusiastically accepted the proposal of the Ambassador of the People’s Republic of China and will host “Bravo China“.
“Bravo China” is a show in which internationally acclaimed Chinese artists meet the most renowned interpreters of the host country in the fields of “bel canto”, ballet and pop music to create an exceptional performance which fosters an outstanding convergence of cultural and artistic traditions from two far-off countries such as China and Italy, bringing them closer on this occasion of this unique appointment at the Teatro del Silenzio. The past 9 editions have touched the 5 continents, including venues such as Hollywood, Rio de Janeiro the Acropolis in Athens and the Kremlin in Moscow.
The Italian cast includes the violinist Uto Ughi, the Etoile of the Opéra Garnier of Paris Eleonora Abbagnato, and the flautist Andrea Griminelli.
Tickets will be on sale from March 29, on the website: www.fourone.it
From April 4, tickets will be available from authorized online stores such as: www.vivaticket.it and www.ticketone.it .
Info:
www.teatrodelsilenzio.it

Calici di Stelle

Terricciola, Wednesday August 10, 2011
www.comune.terricciola.pi.it

Palio di San Rocco – Veglia Francigena

San Miniato, Monday August 15, 2011
www.cittadisanminiato.it, www.comune.san-miniato.pi.it

A.D. 1398

Volterra, 21 and 28 August 2011
Grand recollection of the glorious past of Volterra: fiery knights on their horses, proud noblemen, beautiful ladies, craftsmen and merchants, peasants and commoners, flag wavers and bowmen, musicians and minstrels will bring the medieval times back to life in the beautiful town.
www.volterratur.it

San Genesio – The City of Children

Casciana Terme, Monday August 22, 2011
The community of Casciana Terme has celebrated Saint Genesio, friend and patron of children, for over 50 years,. For three days, children take charge of the town through the Mayor’s symbolic gift of the keys to the town to the Lord Chamberlain of the Kingdom of Children, interpreted by a local child. Ciambellano, the Italian word for Chamberlain, is also the name of the traditional cake which celebrates this occasion: a ring-shaped cake filled with candied fruit and raisins.
Casciana is closed to traffic for the entire duration of the festival and the centre is “invaded” by cheerful children: the “Land of Toys” comes to life, with street shows, clowns, competitions, book stalls and workshops. www.comune.cascianaterme.pi.it

Walking Festival

Parco di Migliarino, San Rossore, Massaciuccoli, from September 3, 2011
Step by step to gain time. A sequence of slow movements which assume a deeper meaning thanks to the extraordinary set that hosts and guides them. An itinerary on an ideal map which is not only a geographical but also an emotional space.
In the protected environments of the parks, the Walking Festival brings a multitude of events to the 6 main Nature Reserves in Tuscany.
www.tuscanywalkingfestival.it, www.parcosanrossore.org

So here you go: if you are considering whether to spend some time in Pisa in March or April, this will hopefully help you make up your mind (and book your flight!).

Pisa and the celebrations for the Unification of Italy

This year, on March 17th to be exact, we will celebrate the 150th Anniversary of the Unification of Italy and it will actually be a national holiday. Celebrations will happen in most cities I’d imagine. Pisa celebrates the Unification of the country with an exhibition at Palazzo Blu called Donne d’Italia. La metà dell’unità. The exhibit, open from March 16th to June 26th, will be free of charge, and a fabulous idea I would like to add, because the role of women who made the country is not very well known (the link is to a post I wrote last year about the topic).

Two more exhibitions celebrate the Unification of Italy: one about the role of Pisa in the Unification process at the University Library - Palazzo della Sapienza in Piazza Dante – (“1859-1861 – Il contributo di Pisa all’unità d’Italia”) and one at the Museo della Grafica at Palazzo Lanfranchi on the Lungarno (“Luigi Torelli, Prefetto di Pisa dal 1862 al 1865″).

And last but not least, the Notte Bianca, Rossa e Verde (the white, red and green night), a “street party” by Ponte di Mezzo on March 16, from 9:30 pm to 3 am, with a midnight toast to our 150 year old country!

The Truffle Season!

On March 19 and 20, the ancient village of Cigoli, which we happened to discover only few weeks ago, celebrates its Tartufo Marzolino, a local variety of truffle with Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Marzolino di Cigoli. The Marzolino Truffle is also the protagonist of Voterra Gusto on the weekend of March 25-27.

Happy New Year!

That’s right! Few people know of the Capodanno Pisano, the Pisan New Year, but it’s a great event. From the 12th century until 1749, Pisa had its own calendar, different from the Gregorian calendar. March 25th, the day of the Annunciation – the Catholic celebration of the announcement by the angel Gabriel to Mary that she would become the mother of Jesus – was New Year’s Day.

The new year officially begins when a sunbeam strikes a marble egg placed in the Cathedral, above the beautiful pulpit sculpted by Giovanni Pisano. The sunbeam enters the beautiful church from a small round window located in the chapel of San Ranieri: a very ingenious solar clock!

This year the city has planned lots of events around the Capodanno Pisano. Many restaurants and bars will organize dinners to wait for the arrival of the “new year” (yes, on March 25th, it will be 2012 in Pisa!), music, celebrations and parties. On the 25th, there will be the usual parade in period costumes to the Cathedral. We went last year and it was fabulous!

March 25 will also be the official beginning of tourist season. Pisa and its province celebrate with a weekend rich in events: guided tours of Pisa, Volterra and Castelnuovo Val di Cecina; special offers at spas and wellness centers in Casciana and San Giuliano Terme; extended opening hours of churches in Pisa, Calci and Cascina and of museums (Fauglia, Peccioli, Montecatini Val di Cecina) and monuments (Brunelleschi’s “Rocca” in Vicopisano and Rocca Sillana in Pomarance); wine tasting in Pisa and Peccioli; urban trekking in Pontedera; the Chocolate Festival in San Miniato and Tirrenia; sport events at the hippodrome of San Rossore and Marina di Pisa; days dedicated to traditional recipes in restaurants; shopping tours in the leather district in Santa Croce; art exhibitions in Calcinaia; plays in Lari; fireworks on the Lungarni in Pisa and good music in the streets!

So, if you are thinking of visiting Pisa in March, that weekend is no doubt the best time of the month to do it. More on the Pisa Unica Terra website.

A weekend at the spas

During the Capodanno Pisano Weekend (March 25-27), the spas of the Pisa province will celebrate with “Terme Aperte” (literally “open spas”). Casciana Terme, Terme Villa Borri and Bagni di Pisa in San Giuliano Terme open the doors of their spas: free entry to their gardens, parks and hotel facilities. Moreover, reduced prices are offered to access the thermal pools and spa treatments, as well as on accommodation and on their beauty products. A unique opportunity to treat yourself to a special weekend of relaxation, art and culture.

Celebrating the blooms of the spring

From April 1st to the 3rd, lovers of flowers will find several interesting events in Pisa and its province. Pisa will become a garden in bloom with its festival Pisa in Fiore (Pisa in Bloom). And on April 2nd and 3rd the Convent of Nicosia in Calci opens the doors of its garden for the annual event dedicated to this beautiful flower Il Chiostro delle Camelie. Here is a related article on April flower-related events in Tuscany.

• September 18th, 2010: Lungo l’Arno – Pisa vista dal Fiume (On the Arno, Pisa seen from the river): it’s a boat tour of the city. The meeting point is Scalo Roncioni at 5pm. It’s necessary to book 5 days prior to the event, but since they have just started advertising these activities, it might be possible to just show up. It’s worth to give it a try.
• October 9th, 2010: Gli Arsenali Pisani – dal Medioevo all’età Medicea (The Pisan Arsenals – from the Middle Ages to the Medicean Era). It’s a visit to the beautiful Arsenals. The meeting point is by the Guelph Tower at 3:30pm. It’s necessary to book at least 5 days prior to the event.
• November 13th, 2010: Il Museo della Grafica (The Museum of Graphic Art). The meeting point is the entrance to Palazzo Lanfranchi at 3:30pm. It’s necessary to book at least 5 days prior to the event.
• December 11th, 2010: Il Museo di Anatomia e Istologia Patologica (The Anatomy and Histopathology Museum of the University of Pisa). The meeting point is Via Roma, n. 57 at 10:00 am. It’s necessary to book at least 5 days prior to the event.
• January 8th, 2011: Il Complesso di San Michele degli Scalzi (The complex of San Michele degli Scalzi). The meeting point is at the entrance to the church of San Michele degli Scalzi at Le Piagge at 3:30pm. It’s necessary to book at least 5 days prior to the event.
• February 12th, 2011: Palazzo Gambacorti and Via degli Uffizi. The meeting point is Piazza XX Settembre (Le Logge dei Banchi), at 03:30 pm. It’s necessary to book at least 5 days prior to the event.
• March 12th, 2011: Là dove sbarcò l’apostolo Piero – La Basilica di San Piero a Grado (The place where the apostle Peter diembarked – The Basilica of San Piero a Grado). The meeting point is at the entrance to the Basilica at 15:30 am. It’s necessary to book at least 5 days prior to the event.
• April 9th, 2011: Il cantiere delle navi romane – storia di una scoperta (The Roman Shipyard – history of a discovery). This must be very interesting: it’s a visit to the excavation site where the Roman ships of Pisa were found. The meeting point is at the entrance of the site in Via Bandinelli 64, at 03:30 pm. It’s necessary to book at least 5 days prior to the event.
• May 7th, 2011: Da Giardino dei Semplici a Orto Botanico dell’Università di Pisa (From the Garden of the Simple to the University Botanic Garden). A visit to the oldest Botanic Garden in Europe. The meeting point is at the entrance of the Botanic Garden in Via Ghini, at 10:30 am.
• June 11th, 2010: Quando Marina di Pisa si chiamava Bocca d’Arno (When Marina di Pisa was called Bocca d’Arno). A visit to the coastal town of Marina di Pisa. The meeting point is Piazza delle Baleari in Marina di Pisa, at 5:00 pm.

For information and reservations, you need to contact the tourism office of the Comune di Pisa at the number +39 050 910365 or +39 050 910789. The office is open from Monday to Friday between 9 am and 12pm. Here is a link to download the poster of “A Spasso per Pisa“. These are great opportunities to see places normally off-the-beaten-path and to learn something more about this neat city.

Make sure you ask for a guide who can speak your language.

I have also always wanted to visit the Jewish Cemetery in Pisa. Even if it is unknown to most, it is just outside Piazza dei Miracoli, comprised between the city walls and the ever-crowded area where large groups of tourists gather to be picked up by their buses.

I walk by it several times every week, and for years I’ve been too lazy or too busy to actually step inside. For this reason, when we read that today the cemetery would be open to the public and that it would even be possible to have a guided tour, we decided that it was the perfect opportunity to see another piece of Pisa which we didn’t know.

I should probably start by saying that the Jewish community has a long history in Pisa: a 1150 year-long history to be precise. The first official mention dates back to the year 859 A.D.. The area of Pisa was among the first areas in Europe where Jewish communities settled and it is only second to the community in Rome in order of importance. The reason why so many Jews chose the Pisan area as their home is probably that at the time, Pisa was a major commercial center and they worked as intermediaries between the Christian and the Islamic communities in the trades in the Mediterranean.

The guide who showed us around told us that the presence of the Jewish community in Pisa in the Middle Ages is also evidenced by inscriptions on the city walls by the cathedral, which were probably a way to remember some members of the community who, for various reasons, could not be buried in the sacred ground.

At that time, the cemetery occupied an area of what is today property of University Hospital Santa Chiara, which was then outside the city walls. Moreover, a document of the 13th century obligated Jews to live all in the same area, which, by the way, was already occupied by the community. That was not a ghetto: everybody could live there, and trade could be carried out freely. At the beginning of the 14th century, as a matter of fact, the community moved to the area comprised between Via San Martino and Piazza Chiara Gambacorti.

Over the centuries, the city has always seen the presence of a Jewish community, who for hundreds of years controlled the financial life of the city, until the 17th century, when their activities were declared illegal by the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Most of the Jews in Pisa became merchants, and many moved to Livorno, where the harbor was a livelier trade center.

In the 19th century the community started to grow again and it has been deeply integrated in the cultural scene in the city ever since.

The cemetery in Pisa is one of the most ancient Jewish burial grounds still in use. It was created in its present location in 1674 after Cosimo III de’ Medici decided to use the area where the older cemetery was located as a hunting area. Some of the old tombs were moved to the new locations.  The oldest tomb stones of the 16th and 17th century are still standing. Their peculiarity is that on one side, they have Hebraic inscriptions, and on the other they have Spanish or Portuguese inscriptions because these people were the descendants of the families who had been expelled from the Iberian Peninsula in the 15th century.

The visit was very interesting. There are tombs of very different styles and epochs and inscriptions in many different languages which evidence the cosmopolitan character of the Pisan community.

Many tombs are damaged: like everything else in the city, the ground tends to sink, and many tombs have sunk or are broken.

I particularly liked the older part. It’s impressive, with many stones under the tall trees: it looks like you are far from the most touristy area of Pisa.

The area with the tombs of the many children who died during the plague in the 17th century is also impressive. We learnt that Jews don’t move their dead people, unlike Christians, so the old little tombs are all there. Many have stones on top. I thought they were just random pieces of other damaged graves, but they are in fact the equivalent of flowers. We were explained that bringing a stone to the grave of a beloved one is the same as bringing flowers, but contrary to flowers which fade easily, stones remain to witness the love of the living ones left behind.

I also found fascinating the double format of the dates in the inscriptions: the “normal date” and the Hebraic date. The new year begins on September 8th, and it will be 5771 if I am not mistaken.We naively asked how they start counting: the guide looked at us with a smile and calmly told us “the creation of the world of course“. Of course.

We bought a book about the community: the money will go towards the restoration of the old Synagogue of the city, dating almost 500 years: it was heavily damaged by a bad storm a few years back. Hopefully, next year, on the European Day of Jewish Culture they will be able to open the Synagogue to the public too.  If you are willing to make a donation, here is the information: http://pisaebraica.it/cms/2008/12/09/emergenza-tetto/.

We really enjoyed the visit. I highly recommend a visit to this interesting, little-known place in Pisa, which is definitely on the beaten path and yet well off it!

Planning a trip to Tuscany? Check out our self-catering apartment in Pisa!

They brought back from this expedition a very large number of artifacts, drawings and manuscripts, 200 of which have been chosen to be exhibited at Palazzo Blu. They are normally part of collections preserved at the University of Pisa and at the Egyptian Museum of Florence and seeing them all together there, at that incredible location and within that installation was just incredible.

The exhibition will close on July 25: I don’t know why I waited so long to go. The perfect excuse was that our nephew Alessandro is spending the week with his other aunt and uncle who also live near Pisa, so this morning we took him there.

I am not sure if he enjoyed it, but Giovanna and I certainly did! The exhibition is nothing like the usual boring stuff you would normally expect in an Italian museum. Not at all.

They have recreated the shape of the river Nile on the floor, and on the walls, panels tell you where you are supposed to be at every step of your own very personal expedition to Egypt, and, for every place Rosellini visited and sketched, drawings and objects are on display. The drawings are incredibly beautiful, in their bright colours. And the quotes from Rosellini’s diary printed on large boards all along the “path” add a lot to the experience.

Whomever has worked to implement the exhibition has really done a great job in recreating the atmosphere and the sense of discovery and amazement that those scholars and explorers must have experienced in uncovering such incredible treasures, also considering that they could actually understand the hieroglyph inscriptions for the first time.

A nice video is projected on a screen placed under a camp tent similar to what is supposed to have been in use back then. A really, really interesting exhibition. I couldn’t take many photos as in theory it was not allowed I guess… but I took a couple anyway, with no flash of course. A few pictures can be seen here, on the official website, in the “multimedia” section: http://www.mostraegittopisa.it/

I also learnt something new about the University: after the expedition, the first course of Egyptology was created exactly here in Pisa for Rosellini, and the archaeology department is still one of the best in the country, and possibly in the world.

We also took advantage of the fact that the entrance ticket (8.50 for the adults and 6.50 for the kids) gives visitors the right to visit the permanent collection so we went up to the first floor of the Palazzo where some rooms have been brought back to their original splendour with original furnishing and lots of paintings hanging from the walls. It is really a beautiful place, which gives a good idea of the lifestyle of noble people in the 18th and 19th century.

Palazzo Blu will host another fabulous exhibition in the fall devoted to Mirò. I won’t wait until the very last minute next time. Actually I cannot wait to go back.

There is also a specialized book store selling art catalogues and art books, with titles that are normally difficult to find elsewhere.

What we did not like

Dulcis in fundo… so we start with the “bittersweet” part:

• the marketing speak with no real examples: there are times when this marketing talk about the need to listen, to act as a system, to be a “we” rather than an “I”, etc. puts me to sleep and gives me the impression of being at some Scientology meeting or some motivational training… I would like to hear about ways in which people put these nice principles into practice rather than the same stuff over and over. Unless somebody shows me how things are (sometimes) done – and how they are different from what we do – these only sound like buzzwords. I know that the theory is that everybody has to find their own way to put this stuff into practice, but unless the theorists start talking in practical terms to the practitioners, there is no room for complaining about small hotels not innovating. If the experts want to see a generalized change, they have to start teaching rather than preaching. I understand that there is no ready made solution, but some case-studies might help people understand what to do.
• old issues presented as new ideas. I appreciated very much what Robert Piattelli said in Grosseto at the meeting Il Futuro della Maremma. He said that nothing has changed. And indeed nothing has, at least in substance. The form has, but the content hasn’t. The various moments of the tourist experience are a well known fact in sociological literature as well as in tourism studies (see Dann’s The Language of Tourism published well over 10 years ago). The need to localize rather than translate web content, especially in the tourism field, has been advocated for a while (a few articles about web translation from the linguist’s perspective were published at least 3 years ago). The need to interact has been addressed for years through forums, communities, and, in the distant distant past, even penfriends and reading groups performed that very same function. The fact that people want an experience rather than a product… well Goethe already knew that when he wrote his Italian Travel Journals and so did all those before him who came to Italy for the Grand Tour… The traveler vs. tourist debate has been one of the liveliest for a long time. If people hadn’t noticed all of that up until now, well, that’s the real problem. The future generations of tourism professionals will need to be formed to be competent in a large range of areas or we’ll keep speaking different languages and looking at a very small and fragmented picture and we’ll forget the bigger picture. Tech-people need to understand marketing people, who need to understand linguists, who need to understand copywriters, who need to understand how the small businesses work everyday and how “Everyman” travels.
• Autoreferentiality: this is a problem that is widespread and often makes me wonder. Today I wish I had seen many more people from the non-digital world: people from public institutions, my students, operators who are not social media experts. Instead, and this is something that always worries me when I tweet for instance, we often preach to the choir. I am under the impression that most of the followers or Facebook friends of tourism businesses are themselves people who are in the business in one way or another.
• Numbers, numbers, numbers: what about conversion rates? It’s great to know that the Google searches for Tuscany-related terms are booming, that people have hundreds of friends in online communities, that people’s blogs are popular. But how much of that popularity becomes actual reservations? In my experience as a vacation rental owner, last year’s season (and this year’s especially) was a disaster. There is nobody around, except in the major centers, which will always be visited no matter what. And yet my websites have never been more popular… could it be that people “travel online” when they don’t have the money to travel for real? I hope not, but these matters are worth looking into.
• Internet not working… come on guys!!! “Internet Better Life” and we couldn’t get online to save our lives?! The wi-fi system should have been impeccable. That’s it. Vodafone did its poor part as usual… we didn’t even have 3G.

What we liked:

• We found the presentations about Google Data, about sociological trends and about the Bologna social media teaching experience extremely interesting and well explained. Bravo. (I apologize but I didn’t write down the names of the speakers and I will have to ask for them.)
• ToscanaLab was a great opportunity to meet interesting people like Roberta Milano, the Social Media Team (Alexandra – @TuscanyArt, Oriana – @Tuscanycious, Erica – @Tuscanytunes in particular are really nice girls and web communicators), Laura De Benedetto, president of ToscanaIn. They are doing terrific work, in concrete terms. I wish I had had more of a chance to interact with them. (And I promise… I did not mean it as a bad thing when I wrote that the Clubs In are a Loggia P2.0!! I was joking! It’s a great idea.)
• I was extremely happy about the fact that the Maremma APT Director, Dr. Francesco Tapinassi, was there. That is what I want to see: the sectors that traditionally stay away from a computer need to get involved and he is doing well in that sense. I hope he will bring social media into the mix.
• The venue: the Gipsoteca is quite impressive.
• The very relaxed atmosphere: everybody was very friendly and truly seemed to enjoy the event. Which is in itself a great merit.

All in all we were very glad we went. I hope events like this really help us non-experts progress.